revolver lightstriking

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  • slsc98

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    May 24, 2012
    6,872
    Escaped MD-stan to WNC Smokies
    Haven’t read through entire thread but enough to see you’re already getting sound advice

    I’ll only add this link to a great article ... Improving the trigger on Smith & Wesson Revolvers: https://straightshooterjake.blogspot.com/p/revolver-springs.html

    Expressly because it includes this section ...:

    <snip>

    2.2.3 Issues which cause light strikes

    The number one cause of light strikes and misfires is a weak hammer strike. This point cannot be overstated. Most of the time when people have misfires, it is because the mainspring tension is insufficient, and the hammer is not hitting hard enough. Low mainspring tension may be caused by either a weak mainspring, or by a loose or improperly fitted strain screw. You can find more information about mainspring tension in the section on working with mainsprings and the strain screw.

    However, there are also mechanical problems which can contribute to light strikes. If these mechanical issues are just slightly out of spec, the revolver will often work reliably with a strong mainspring. But if tolerances are too far off, then you may get misfires even with a very strong spring.

    The descriptions below illustrate some of the mechanical issues which can cause light primer strikes. A complete description of how to check all of these areas is beyond the scope of this article. But you should be aware that a qualified gunsmith will check most of these areas while doing a trigger job, and most of these tolerances can be checked quite quickly. You can find more information about these issues in the references section of this article.

    Firing pin length and protrusion
    You may get light strikes if the firing pin does not protrude far enough through the breech face. On guns which have a frame mounted firing pin, the overall length of the firing pin also needs to be sufficient. There is more information about firing pins in the appendix.

    Endshake
    Endshake is the amount that the cylinder can move forward and backward. If there is too much endshake, then the cylinder can move forward when the firing pin strikes the cartridge. This movement can use up energy that should have been delivered to the primer.

    Headspace
    Headspace is the distance between the back of the cylinder and the breech face. If there is too much headspace, then the cartridges may be too far from the firing pin. On Smith & Wesson revolvers, the headspace is also called the "rear gauge."

    Friction and interference
    Excessive friction on the hammer or the firing pin can reduce the energy of the firing pin strike. Interference between the hammer and the edge of the frame can also drain power from the hammer.

    Off center strikes
    Primers are most sensitive in the center of the primer. If the firing pin strikes are off center, then a very strong strike may be required to get reliable ignition.

    <un-snip>
     

    TheOriginalMexicanBob

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 2, 2017
    33,041
    Sun City West, AZ
    Some brand revolvers are easier to 'smith than others...just the nature of their individual designs. All designs are a compromise...between cost of parts...ease of assembly...cost of labor to assemble and fit parts as necessary. Additional gunsmithing is something usually left to the the maker's custom shop or the aftermarket.

    When I went to the S&W armorer school years ago doing minor repairs and tweaking was something not difficult at all...if you have the proper tools and the manual as a guide. Smoothing out a S&W action is easy once you understand the dynamics of the action...even adjusting the sights on a fixed sight revolver is simple...if you know the procedure and have the appropriate stuff to do it.

    One thing stressed to us in class upon completion was attending the course did not make us gunsmiths...that is a totally different thing from being a certified armorer. It's been years since I opened up a Smiff & Weasel revolver...even though I still have the tools I remember little...and that was before they added the Hillary Hole and started making them with MIM parts which requires different techniques.
     

    Gcs7th

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 26, 2012
    1,280
    AGC
    Now that I have never seen. Is it the new cast parts?

    Here’s so pictures this is the 3rd time the part broke...

    As I understand this is the same part in their other revolvers. My guess is because the hammer spring is so much stronger in the 22lr the part fails quicker as well as most 22 shooters shoot much more volume than 38/357 etc.
     

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    Gcs7th

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 26, 2012
    1,280
    AGC
    FYI this is what the part is supposed to look like, it’s a little bit longer with a pin that interfaces with the trigger.

    I will be calling Taurus Monday and seeing what they can do to make this right. I call a lemon on this revolver, but atleast it’s accurate and fun to shoot when it works.
     

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    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,928
    Socialist State of Maryland
    I have owned several Model 94's over the years and never had that happen. From looking at your hammer, they are MIM parts. I suspect maybe the trigger is out of spec and it is holding the transfer bar at an odd angle. Since this is the third time it has happened, I definitely would make the case that it should be replaced.
     

    Gcs7th

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 26, 2012
    1,280
    AGC
    Waiting to talk to a supervisor/ case manager I was not impressed with the customer service representative. Basically took down my info, gave me a case number, and asked what kind of ammo I was shooting through it. On and they couldn’t send me the part because it was restricted.

    After that I was given instructions which really weren’t pertinent to a revolver about how you needed to send mags to troubleshoot issues but if there were beyond your states capacity they wouldn’t be returned yada yada.

    Anyways I broke out some tools any made a replacement. Took some tweaking to ensure the action moved smoothly. We will see how long it lasts. I was the kid who got in trouble for taking apart his new toys so I could see how they work.
     

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    Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,321
    Harford County
    Waiting to talk to a supervisor/ case manager I was not impressed with the customer service representative. Basically took down my info, gave me a case number, and asked what kind of ammo I was shooting through it. On and they couldn’t send me the part because it was restricted.

    After that I was given instructions which really weren’t pertinent to a revolver about how you needed to send mags to troubleshoot issues but if there were beyond your states capacity they wouldn’t be returned yada yada.

    Anyways I broke out some tools any made a replacement. Took some tweaking to ensure the action moved smoothly. We will see how long it lasts. I was the kid who got in trouble for taking apart his new toys so I could see how they work.

    Good work! :party29:
     

    guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    741
    Severn, MD
    Haven’t read through entire thread but enough to see you’re already getting sound advice

    I’ll only add this link to a great article ... Improving the trigger on Smith & Wesson Revolvers: https://straightshooterjake.blogspot.com/p/revolver-springs.html

    Expressly because it includes this section ...:

    <snip>

    2.2.3 Issues which cause light strikes

    The number one cause of light strikes and misfires is a weak hammer strike. This point cannot be overstated. Most of the time when people have misfires, it is because the mainspring tension is insufficient, and the hammer is not hitting hard enough. Low mainspring tension may be caused by either a weak mainspring, or by a loose or improperly fitted strain screw. You can find more information about mainspring tension in the section on working with mainsprings and the strain screw.

    However, there are also mechanical problems which can contribute to light strikes. If these mechanical issues are just slightly out of spec, the revolver will often work reliably with a strong mainspring. But if tolerances are too far off, then you may get misfires even with a very strong spring.

    The descriptions below illustrate some of the mechanical issues which can cause light primer strikes. A complete description of how to check all of these areas is beyond the scope of this article. But you should be aware that a qualified gunsmith will check most of these areas while doing a trigger job, and most of these tolerances can be checked quite quickly. You can find more information about these issues in the references section of this article.

    Firing pin length and protrusion
    You may get light strikes if the firing pin does not protrude far enough through the breech face. On guns which have a frame mounted firing pin, the overall length of the firing pin also needs to be sufficient. There is more information about firing pins in the appendix.

    Endshake
    Endshake is the amount that the cylinder can move forward and backward. If there is too much endshake, then the cylinder can move forward when the firing pin strikes the cartridge. This movement can use up energy that should have been delivered to the primer.

    Headspace
    Headspace is the distance between the back of the cylinder and the breech face. If there is too much headspace, then the cartridges may be too far from the firing pin. On Smith & Wesson revolvers, the headspace is also called the "rear gauge."

    Friction and interference
    Excessive friction on the hammer or the firing pin can reduce the energy of the firing pin strike. Interference between the hammer and the edge of the frame can also drain power from the hammer.

    Off center strikes
    Primers are most sensitive in the center of the primer. If the firing pin strikes are off center, then a very strong strike may be required to get reliable ignition.

    <un-snip>

    This is a good read. Wolff seems to only have reduced power springs available, but I have yet called them about their parts availability. As a quick fix, i got 3 spacers that stiffens the hammer spring a bit (DA pull has definitely increased), but I have yet tested it out at the range.

    I also got a replacement hammer assembly with built in firing pin on the way. The original firing pin along the original hammer looks like it has also been messed with (sharpened into a point) and could have prematurely worn out (peened shorter after frequent use).
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,928
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Waiting to talk to a supervisor/ case manager I was not impressed with the customer service representative. Basically took down my info, gave me a case number, and asked what kind of ammo I was shooting through it. On and they couldn’t send me the part because it was restricted.

    After that I was given instructions which really weren’t pertinent to a revolver about how you needed to send mags to troubleshoot issues but if there were beyond your states capacity they wouldn’t be returned yada yada.

    Anyways I broke out some tools any made a replacement. Took some tweaking to ensure the action moved smoothly. We will see how long it lasts. I was the kid who got in trouble for taking apart his new toys so I could see how they work.

    Nice job. If you made it out of steel, and I assume you did, after you tweek it, I would put a mild case harden on it. You can use Casenit or just a couple of oil quenches.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,928
    Socialist State of Maryland

    guzma393

    Active Member
    Jan 15, 2020
    741
    Severn, MD
    An update for Taurus 80, I called wolff and they only have reduced springs available. I replaced the hammer assembly as the firing pin (hammer mounted, only sold with hammer assembly) as it was worn out (firing pin didn't look like it was striking as far as it should) and stiffened the main spring a bit with a couple of washers.

    Took it out to the range before hammer was replaced (but spring spacers added) and it was still shooting intermittently on SA with CCI/winchester primers and would even lightstrike on DA with federal primers.

    After hammer was installed, SA operations are 100 percent, firing even CCI primers and DA will go as far as firing federal and winchester primers 100 percent. Out of the 12 shots fired in DA with CCI primed cartridges, 2 still experienced a failure to fire (one out of six failed to fire).

    I can try stiffening the main spring some more, but then the trigger return spring will be too weak to reset the trigger properly. Without straining the action anymore than it has to, I think i'll just leave it to its current configuration and just reserve my federal and winchester spp for 38 spl reloads from now on.
     
    Last edited:

    Paul Ward

    Member
    Jan 2, 2021
    26
    Xring in Newark De has a gun smith Monday Wednesday and Saturday 12-close. He has done some minor work on two of my rifles and was very fair and did nice work.
     

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