Need help- 80% lower
- Thread starter noahhh
- Start date
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Blacksmith101
Grumpy Old Man
- Jun 22, 2012
- 22,288
You can't legally build one for somebody else. You buddy needs to go and learn the skills he needs to complete it himself or else he has a nice paper weight.
An 80% lower must either be completed by him or an FFL07/SOT. I don't know if any FFL07/SOT's that would provide this service though. Have him watch a bunch of YouTube videos and read a bunch of guides, (they're out there in Googleland). Otherwise, you'd be running a very fine line for illegal firearms manufacturing.
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Are the pre-drilled pin holes .154 (small pin) or .170 (large pin)?
I'll find out.
Jmorrismetal
Active Member
- Sep 27, 2014
- 468
If you don't have the skills to complete one on your own just go buy a finished lower for $50.
If he jacks around and waits until after Hillary is elected and starts talking AWB part 2 he's going to pay a lot more than what they cost now.
If he jacks around and waits until after Hillary is elected and starts talking AWB part 2 he's going to pay a lot more than what they cost now.
I've never seen a 80% with pre drilled hammer/trigger pin holes.
DutchV
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2012
- 4,730
He'll need a drill press at minimum. A mill would be better. Or the Easy Jig and a router but you still need to drill the axis holes.
And he has to do all the work himself, although if somebody else watches or helps that's okay. ("Help" means "Assist" - not "Does it for him".)
Buying a stripped lower would be simpler if you don't already have access to the tools, or don't think you'll use them again.
And he has to do all the work himself, although if somebody else watches or helps that's okay. ("Help" means "Assist" - not "Does it for him".)
Buying a stripped lower would be simpler if you don't already have access to the tools, or don't think you'll use them again.
DutchV
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2012
- 4,730
And you won't. Poster in question is jerking the OP's chain - I guess he forgets that this is not the WC.
Fox123
Ultimate Member
I might even argue if you are not smart enough to figure out how to drill it out yourself you are not smart enough to operate and maintain it once it is complete. There are jigs and companies out there who have created products to aid in the completion, it really doesn't take much mechanical aptitude at all.
Not to mention it is illegal for someone else to do it for you.
Not to mention it is illegal for someone else to do it for you.
.
whistlersmother
Peace through strength
I don't think so...
Does your "buddy" live here? 99 New York Avenue, NE, Washington, DC 20226
Does your "buddy" live here? 99 New York Avenue, NE, Washington, DC 20226
DIY or sell it as is while its still a paperweight. Don't commit a crime.
Per forum rules, this is a "suggesting to commit a crime" thread ... admins should delete it as such.
Per forum rules, this is a "suggesting to commit a crime" thread ... admins should delete it as such.
To suggest that I'm trolling for the Feds is an insult. What prompted my question was based on a vague remembrance of guys mentoring newbie builders here in the past. Like I stated a while back, this whole AR thing is new to me and because I choose to ask questions of that which I know little about makes me a schmuck or something?? Jeez.
The 80% lower in question was gifted to my boss, who came to me with a lot of questions most of which I could answer but for this one. I passed on the info along with the recommendation that he pass the thing on to someone else and start his build with a ready to go lower.
It would seem that a lot of guys here assume that the rest of the world is as knowledgeable as they are regarding this subject. Such is not the case, and I'll bet there are a few folks out there who would love to inquire about this stuff but don't for fear of being insulted in public.
The 80% lower in question was gifted to my boss, who came to me with a lot of questions most of which I could answer but for this one. I passed on the info along with the recommendation that he pass the thing on to someone else and start his build with a ready to go lower.
It would seem that a lot of guys here assume that the rest of the world is as knowledgeable as they are regarding this subject. Such is not the case, and I'll bet there are a few folks out there who would love to inquire about this stuff but don't for fear of being insulted in public.
whistlersmother
Peace through strength
Alright, I'll bite: What specifically does he need information on?
Your posts here are pretty vague and quite frankly, maybe the trigger for some of the less than helpful responses... Especially the "needs help finishing it up" phrase...
There's no way to give detailed information unless we know what specifically he needs to know. Some things are technique driven and some things are specific to the 80% lower manufacturer.
I am not a machinist, although I like to throw chips everywhere.
For example, when I drill the safety selector, I use the jig to merely mark the spot on the lower by hand rotating the bit in the jig. I use a drill press after squaring the chuck with the table. I then remove the jig/lower from the drill press, center punch the spot, and start the hole with a small bit. Then I change to the large correct bit to finish the safety selector.
Why? I found the big bit for the safety selector "walks" without a pilot hole. If the bit walks too far, It typically drills the hole too low in relation to the trigger pin. If that happens, the trigger group may/may not fit in with the safety selector -or- may not even work the way it should. Filing with a small round file is necessary to adjust the hole just enough for the trigger/safety to work the way it should.
(Yes, my drill press is super cheap and the jig has just enough "slop" to cause issues.)
Another example: Andersen 80% lowers have the rear shelf pre-milled. Unfortunately, it is not to specification and has to be properly milled using the jig I have. If I didn't do this, the upper would never sit down into the rear shelf.
Your posts here are pretty vague and quite frankly, maybe the trigger for some of the less than helpful responses... Especially the "needs help finishing it up" phrase...
There's no way to give detailed information unless we know what specifically he needs to know. Some things are technique driven and some things are specific to the 80% lower manufacturer.
I am not a machinist, although I like to throw chips everywhere.
For example, when I drill the safety selector, I use the jig to merely mark the spot on the lower by hand rotating the bit in the jig. I use a drill press after squaring the chuck with the table. I then remove the jig/lower from the drill press, center punch the spot, and start the hole with a small bit. Then I change to the large correct bit to finish the safety selector.
Why? I found the big bit for the safety selector "walks" without a pilot hole. If the bit walks too far, It typically drills the hole too low in relation to the trigger pin. If that happens, the trigger group may/may not fit in with the safety selector -or- may not even work the way it should. Filing with a small round file is necessary to adjust the hole just enough for the trigger/safety to work the way it should.
(Yes, my drill press is super cheap and the jig has just enough "slop" to cause issues.)
Another example: Andersen 80% lowers have the rear shelf pre-milled. Unfortunately, it is not to specification and has to be properly milled using the jig I have. If I didn't do this, the upper would never sit down into the rear shelf.
DutchV
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2012
- 4,730
I think you're over-reacting. Sounds more like a couple new guys who don't know the rules.
Basically OP, your friend can choose to spend $250 on a jig and router to mill out the 80% lower or he can spend $125 on a factory finished lower. For a newbie to ARs I'd recommend buying a new lower everyday of the week and twice on Sunday over finishing an 80%. When buying new, you know it's in spec and your LPK will go in with fewer hassles.
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