Pure Lead out of .45acp Revolver?

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  • Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,267
    Harford County
    To stretch my ammo through the crisis, I'm thinking about reloading for and shooting my .45 acp revolvers in steel challenge. I figure the moon clips should make brass recovery easy and large pistol primers haven't completely disappeared yet.

    I cast pure lead for shooting black powder, and would rather not get into alloying if at all possible. If I keep velocities low, would leading be a problem? The powders I have now would be Titegroup or Win231.

    The 1917 does have pitting in the barrel that might grab some lead? :shrug: The other option is a Ruger Redhawk. I shoot the 1917 better, and would rather use that one though.

    I figure I won't really know until I try, but wouldn't mind hearing other insight. Thanks.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,881
    You won't know until you try . The exact mold will also matter , think generous lube grooves .
     

    Scrounger

    Active Member
    Jul 16, 2018
    357
    Southern Maryland
    I have been researching the same topic. What I have found, and a couple of friends have recommended for .45ACP is to use regular wheel weight lead. I would think pure lead would be too soft and there would be a leading problem. Lead from wheel weights is supposed to be good for at least 900fps.

    I am finally getting back into shooting and have missed practicing with my government models. I have a bit of lead wheel weights that needs to be processed. I’m trying to procure a larger pot and when the heat gets a little more tolerable get to work on processing and casting.
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,881
    I'm just guessing , but Art may be concerned about cross contaminating his pot that he also ( primarily ? ) uses for black powder projectiles .

    Also note , Art specifically states for .45acp * Revolvers * .

    To expand my previous post , at least as much as keeping velocities to certain levels , alloy ( or not ) hardness should be matched to Pressures .

    Rather than molds traditionally intended for
    45acp , in autoloaders , with usual suspect alloys , look at molds intended for BP loaded cartridges . Google for " Big Lube bullet molds " , and you will find severall flavors in various weights .

    Bullet casting & sizing is an art ( pun not intended ) , individual guns vary , YMMV , etc That said , hopefully " and match Hardball velocities " was not included in your parameters .
     

    Scrounger

    Active Member
    Jul 16, 2018
    357
    Southern Maryland
    I have a Smith & Wesson 625 and use the same loads in both the auto loaders and the revolver. The only reason that I suggested the use of lead wheel weights is they are still readily available for little or no cost.

    I have an older RCBS Pro Melt and haven’t had any trouble in the past when going from pure lead for the muzzle loaders to wheel weight lead for center fire pistols when casting.

    I have been looking at the RCBS Pro Melt 2 for an upgrade, still on the fence.
     

    ohen cepel

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 2, 2011
    4,509
    Where they send me.
    Wheel weights have been getting harder and harder to find, or at least have been for me. So many are zinc or some non lead stuff, now and shops aren't keen on letting people have the old ones like they used to.

    So, check on supply before going down that path. If you have a supply of them then go for it!
     

    ironhead7544

    Active Member
    Oct 27, 2018
    188
    You will probably get some leading with pure lead. To remove the leading, get some Chore Boy all copper scouring pads. Wrap some material around a bore brush for a very tight fit in the barrel.

    The 1917 has shallow rifling for the FMJ military bullet. You will have to go a bit oversize on diameter. I would go with a SWC design.

    Seriously, the 1917 is over 100 years old. If you have a Redhawk, I would say use it instead. With a little practice, you should be able to hit well. I like the 200 gr SWC or cowboy RNFP with WW231 in 45 Auto Rim brass. Slug you cylinder throats and add .001 or .002 in diameter.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    1) WW231 might be too fast. I have seen problems with some pistols using WW231 with cast bullets stripping the rifling off the bullet and tumbling. Switching to HS6 solved the problem. I think the 231 being fast just accelerated the bullet faster than the rifling could spin it up.

    2) Powder coating my help you
     

    Harrys

    Short Round
    Jul 12, 2014
    3,362
    SOMD
    Pure lead is not good it will make cleaning very difficult. Here is the correct recipe for a hard cast bullet, 2% tin, 6% antimony, 92% lead provides the best balance harder bullets at .459 Diameter. Make sure you also use a good lubricate on them makes cleaning easy. I have used this in making hard cast bullets for my 45/70. Pure lead bullets will deform when fired from modern guns and accuracy will be poor.
     

    Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,267
    Harford County
    Thanks for the replies.

    Biggfoot is right about me not wanting to muddle up my mix. Reloading (including casting) of any type is a chore for me that I barely have the time and space to do. I respect people who enjoy it, and maybe if my life was less full of other stuff, I would...but right now, I don't. :o If it wasn't for the ammo crisis (and no end in sight), I wouldn't even be considering this. :tap:

    I have a supply pure lead. Creating another mix would take up more of my precious time changing what's in the pot, and also add expense. Honestly, if I'm going to pay for casting material...I'd kinda rather pay more and get it already shaped into projectiles :innocent0

    I will look into slower powders. Times aren't ideal for being picky about powder...but I'll see what's out there (and what my dad may have laying around :fingerscrossed:)

    I have a mold with a nice big grease groove that I use for .45Colt BP. Unfortunately, I haven't found any .45ACP recipes for 250grain bullets...that would be way to convenient:rolleyes:

    I am definitey not interested in "hardball velocities" ;) If the starting charge gives reliable ignition and minute of plate accuracy at 10-15 yards, I'd just stick with that. The projectile just needs to make it to the target with enough energy to indicate a hit :shrug:

    As to the age of the 1917...at some point in the past 100 years, someone was nice enough to remove the finish, most of the markings, and collector value with a week's worth of buffing, or even sandpaper. :sad20:It earns it keep now by going to work, not by just being pretty. The smith I bought it from was a little surprised I even wanted it, given the condition. It still locked up tight. I told him I wanted it as a shooter and he said, "Well, if it breaks, I can fix it." ;)
     

    Biggfoot44

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 2, 2009
    32,881
    Ah , your not looking the right places .

    Look to the load data for .45 Auto Rim aka .45AR . Same COL and case capacity , lower SAAMI pressure level . There's a fair amount of data for 250gr in the .45 AR
     

    Oddway Otts

    Active Member
    Mar 17, 2008
    359
    Harford County
    Well, I have a LEE bullet mold in .451 round ball (138 gr.+/-) :innocent0 and one in .450 bullet (200 gr. +/-) that I used in my Walker & 1860 Army. In a pinch, I know of an old guy that could probably scrounge up about 400 rounds of Remington or Winchester military .45 hardball (Circa 1962) that has been saved for the revolution. :rockon: There's also a container (100-200?) of mixed batches (hand-picked from Mr. Top Hat at a Timonium Show). :rolleyes: The old guy had always wanted a 1917 (still waiting to inherit it from his uncle),:blush: but happily settled for a Ruger Security Six in the meanwhile.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,734
    Socialist State of Maryland
    To stretch my ammo through the crisis, I'm thinking about reloading for and shooting my .45 acp revolvers in steel challenge. I figure the moon clips should make brass recovery easy and large pistol primers haven't completely disappeared yet.

    I cast pure lead for shooting black powder, and would rather not get into alloying if at all possible. If I keep velocities low, would leading be a problem? The powders I have now would be Titegroup or Win231.

    The 1917 does have pitting in the barrel that might grab some lead? :shrug: The other option is a Ruger Redhawk. I shoot the 1917 better, and would rather use that one though.

    I figure I won't really know until I try, but wouldn't mind hearing other insight. Thanks.

    Art,

    If you said you were wanting to load a 1911, I would tell you how to make it work. On a revolver, especially a 1917, you will get leading. The reason is the forcing cone is going to be sloppy and, your pitting will also be an issue. If you can powder coat them, then it would work for you. I shoot PC bullets in some bores with pits the size of lead shot and they do well. If I shot even hard lead they would lead up inside of 20 rounds.
     

    Dingo3

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 4, 2013
    2,777
    Fredneck
    Not even 2 weeks and still no 3% antimony comments? Is everyone stuck in a running car in a cul-de-sac or have they been taken to the other side by JosephIV’s ghost?
     

    Brickman301

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 23, 2015
    2,531
    FREDERICK, MD
    I know I’m a little late to the conversation but Using a Powder coated pure lead bullet, I think you would be ok. I use them in a 45 long colt revolver, at about 750 FPS, with no leading at all.
    To the OP, I’d definitely give it a try in your revolver.
     

    Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,267
    Harford County
    Art,

    If you said you were wanting to load a 1911, I would tell you how to make it work. On a revolver, especially a 1917, you will get leading. The reason is the forcing cone is going to be sloppy and, your pitting will also be an issue. If you can powder coat them, then it would work for you. I shoot PC bullets in some bores with pits the size of lead shot and they do well. If I shot even hard lead they would lead up inside of 20 rounds.

    I know I’m a little late to the conversation but Using a Powder coated pure lead bullet, I think you would be ok. I use them in a 45 long colt revolver, at about 750 FPS, with no leading at all.
    To the OP, I’d definitely give it a try in your revolver.

    I have watched the discussions and successes with powder coating on here:thumbsup:...but that adds another big step to the already dreadful process...that I don't want to do.:sad20: If things get really desperate, I may look into it. For now, I'm going to try a few softies going slow to see what happens. :shrug:
    I also cheated a little bit :o Midway actually had some hardcast .45 bullets in stock. I probably overpaid at $ 0.14 per...but...well, remember how much I'd like to be doing something other than reloading:innocent0 I honestly can't remember if I ordered 250 or 500 of them...but, for the hours it would take me to cast that...I can live with copping out like that :o
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,734
    Socialist State of Maryland
    I have watched the discussions and successes with powder coating on here:thumbsup:...but that adds another big step to the already dreadful process...that I don't want to do.:sad20: If things get really desperate, I may look into it. For now, I'm going to try a few softies going slow to see what happens. :shrug:
    I also cheated a little bit :o Midway actually had some hardcast .45 bullets in stock. I probably overpaid at $ 0.14 per...but...well, remember how much I'd like to be doing something other than reloading:innocent0 I honestly can't remember if I ordered 250 or 500 of them...but, for the hours it would take me to cast that...I can live with copping out like that :o

    Throw a coat of Xlox or Alox on them for good measure. It might be sticky but it will keep your leading down.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,564
    Harford County, Maryland
    I shot lots of swaged pure lead bullets in , 357, 44 m, and 45 ACP. Coated tumble lube types. Powder used will make a difference. I used and still use Bullseye and it works well. 4.1-4.3 grains give me about 725 fps out of s 5” match fitted barrel in 1911’s. Accurate and no leading.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,734
    Socialist State of Maryland
    I shot lots of swaged pure lead bullets in , 357, 44 m, and 45 ACP. Coated tumble lube types. Powder used will make a difference. I used and still use Bullseye and it works well. 4.1-4.3 grains give me about 725 fps out of s 5” match fitted barrel in 1911’s. Accurate and no leading.

    I agree but he is shooting it out of an old M1917 Smith and Wesson with pitting in the barrel.
     

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