Daddy needs a beltfed.... 1919 throw together

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

Since you saw it here ( https://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.php?p=4867847&postcount=1 ) first, I guess I should do a build thread on it.

This is how I put together a 1919 in a few days. Sorry I don't have more pictures because I wasn't expecting to do a thread on it.

First is to find a kit. I took advantage of the temporary Cetme-L availability issues and sold a bunch of extra stuff to get the 1919 kit very cheap. Expect to pay $1500 or more if you can't find a deal. My kit was an Israeli lend lease kit and as such had most of the necessary conversion parts for 7.62Nato. I found an Israeli drilled tripod for $200, 1K Israeli links for $75 and also found some NOS 100 RND USGI surplus belts that had buckles added to them for pack straps. They are 99 rnd now, but I couldn't beat the price for $12 each shipped. Will order some repo starter tabs from sarco and try to find someone local with a belt loading machine to stretch them for the first loading.

My kit still had the trunion attached to the left side plate, so I had some demil to do before building. Whomever started the demil probably worked for Century because it was rough. The barrel shroud is original USGI and still had the 30-06 booster on it.

The last picture is before I started working on it. Just put the parts on the tripod when everything came in.

Here is a great tutorial from 1919a4.com http://1919a4.com/showthread.php?421-Build-Sequence-Checklist

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

To build a semi auto 1919 you will need to modify the trigger, trigger frame, bolt, and barrel extension. The right side plate is the ATF firearm so a new one must be made or purchased. The semi auto denial feature is a blocking shelf on the right side plate so the trigger frame, bolt, and barrel extension are reduced in width to accommodate.

I went to KMP to get a non-firearm right side plate blank, the trigger, sear, and return spring. They were great to deal with and I had everything within 2 days of ordering.

http://www.karmametalproducts.com/KMP/KMP_1919.htm

They do both a FFL plate and a non-gun plate. I did the non-firearm and machined it on the mill. KMP sent a dimensional drawing with the plate and all the holes were spotted and the openings were indicated within 1/16 of full cut so it was very easy to quickly finish.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

The rivets came from burnt capital. http://burntcapital.sharepoint.com/Pages/default.aspx

Michael (MSG on the boards) was a great resource and hooked me up with the right rivet set for my kit. He even includes a few extra rivets in case you bugger one up. I also bought his fixture and setting tool to that I could use my hydraulic press to do the rivets. It went in the tool box and will be used for any rivet build I do in the future.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

The side plate did not come engraved, so before machining it I sent it and my internals to Brian Penley for engraving and machining. You can find him over at 1919a4 or PM me for his contact information. He doesn't have a website that I am aware of but his prices are extremely fair and he is the go to guy for the mods. I'll have to take a picture of the machined internals later as I can't find the one I took. Turn around time was extremely fast.

This is his engraving. 90% of my parts were Saginaw with a few Buffalo Arms mixed in so I stuck with the Saginaw engraving. My topcover had a serial number stamped on it so I had stamped that serial number when I got the plate back.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

Once I had everything on hand, it was just a matter of putting it all together.

I borrowed a wedge style bucking bar from the Loaner Tool Crib over at Weaponsguild.com. The wedge style bucking bar and the BurntCapital press fixture allowed hollyb1 and I to have all of the rivets pressed and cleaned up in about 3 hours. Be careful if you are using a press. I doesn't take much more than a ton or two to press the rivets. Anything more than that and you can quickly crack the cast bottom plate.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

So, there is clearly a gap in pictures. I'll have to get some more close-up pictures of the finished receiver and rivets. I still need to blast and reparkerize it but I usually save that until after I have it running 100%.

The last two pictures are from the first range session.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

I can say without a doubt that bet-fed guns, even in semi-auto are addictive. I can guarantee that this will not be my last. Next might be an RPD.

In case you were wondering about the cost to run. You can blast through a 100rnd belt in less than a minute, even in semi auto, but right now you can buy steel cased .308 for around $0.35/round if you can't reload for less. There are conversion kits to run a 1919 in .30 cal, 7.62 nato, 8mm, 7.62x39 and .22lr but the last two are very expensive. I'll be sticking to 7.62 NATO for now.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

In the video you can see that see that it is having trigger issues. I had the headspace set at two clicks past lockup for the ammo that I was using. If you run a 1919 make sure to check headspace every time you go to the range or change ammo. Unfortunately, at 2 clicks the trigger was not engaging the sear on every pull. You can actually feel the trigger move past the sear. To get the gun to run 100% I had to open the headspace to 9 clicks past lockup. There were no pressure signs or evidence of unsupported cases, but I didn't have feeler gauges with me at the range. I have it on the bench and need to check with feelers to see how far open the headspace really is. It may just need to run that way. The parts are a mix of pieces that are almost 75 years old.

To headspace a 1919, take the internals out and assemble them on the bench. Make sure to be extra cautious with the driving spring. Tighten the barrel against the closed bolt with the locking piece in the locked position. Start backing off the barrel until the lock will fall free by gravity. At this point back the barrel off two more clicks to account for expansion of the parts.

Thanks again to the Hooligans for posting the video. Hope to see you again in the next few weeks.

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

j8064 · Jul 27, 2017

wbw2123, Great write up! :thumbsup:

Having seen and fired the 1919 personally, all I can say is AWESOME!

FFBWMD · Jul 27, 2017

wbw2123 said:
In the video you can see that see that it is having trigger issues. I had the headspace set at two clicks past lockup for the ammo that I was using. If you run a 1919 make sure to check headspace every time you go to the range or change ammo. Unfortunately, at 2 clicks the trigger was not engaging the sear on every pull. You can actually feel the trigger move past the sear. To get the gun to run 100% I had to open the headspace to 9 clicks past lockup. There were no pressure signs or evidence of unsupported cases, but I didn't have feeler gauges with me at the range. I have it on the bench and need to check with feelers to see how far open the headspace really is. It may just need to run that way. The parts are a mix of pieces that are almost 75 years old.

To headspace a 1919, take the internals out and assemble them on the bench. Make sure to be extra cautious with the driving spring. Tighten the barrel against the closed bolt with the locking piece in the locked position. Start backing off the barrel until the lock will fall free by gravity. At this point back the barrel off two more clicks to account for expansion of the parts.

Thanks again to the Hooligans for posting the video. Hope to see you again in the next few weeks.

I've NEVER had to run headspace more than 3 clicks past lockup! Not knocking on you but you might want to check things over real good. I own 2 Semi's and have built and shot over 20 1919's, just saying. Just for reference RPD's are a whole other ball game unless you own a lathe and a mill. Any questions let me know.

Brian

wbw2123 · Jul 27, 2017

FFBWMD said:
I've NEVER had to run headspace more than 3 clicks past lockup! Not knocking on you but you might want to check things over real good. I own 2 Semi's and have built and shot over 20 1919's, just saying. Just for reference RPD's are a whole other ball game unless you own a lathe and a mill. Any questions let me know.

Brian

Thanks Brian, I know something is wrong but I haven't had the time to check it since returning from the range. I forgot to take my feelers with me. I was opening the headspace a click at a time until it ran. Checking pressure signs and looking for unsupported cases at each click. Once I find the cause I will post the findings. Test and Tune...

I do have both a lathe and mill for the RPD if I decide to do one. I just didn't have the time to do the time to do the 1919 mods myself and the prices for the work was probably less than I should be paying myself right now.

FFBWMD · Jul 27, 2017

wbw2123 said:
Thanks Brian, I know something is wrong but I haven't had the time to check it since returning from the range. I forgot to take my feelers with me. I was opening the headspace a click at a time until it ran. Checking pressure signs and looking for unsupported cases at each click. Once I find the cause I will post the findings. Test and Tune...

I do have both a lathe and mill for the RPD if I decide to do one. I just didn't have the time to do the time to do the 1919 mods myself and the prices for the work was probably less than I should be paying myself right now.

Roger that.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Doco Overboard · Jul 27, 2017

Thanks for posting, nothing like building something yourself. I never looked into anything like that because outside of ammo I would have thought it would be too cost prohibitive. That has to be to much fun.

Daddy needs a beltfed.... 1919 throw together

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