- Jul 29, 2014
- 50,065
I'm not a fan of wood dowels either. Had one split and wedge around a .50 cal sabot while trying to unload my BP for the season. Made things even harder. I like cleaning rods with flat brass jags.
Bullet stuck in barrel of MPX
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I'm not a fan of wood dowels either. Had one split and wedge around a .50 cal sabot while trying to unload my BP for the season. Made things even harder. I like cleaning rods with flat brass jags.
Thats a bitch when a wood dowel breaks off or shatters flush with the muzzle or breech. You have to make a "sock" to get it out.
So Im giving away secrets here. If that happens, find a nylon cover that fits over a small diameter chain, like the kind you see protecting swing set chains.
Get it over the rod and make sure its long enough that you can grab it with a pair of pliers. When you tug, it will grip the rod.
Sometimes you may run across small woven nylon rope that when you push it together, the center opens up like a Chinese finger. If your lucky on a modern MZ just unscrew the breech plug of course.
You can also shrink and dry wood inside a barrel to reduce the diameter.
When I look at any piece of wood that goes into a barrel, I make sure there is no end grain that appears on the outside diameter of the dowel. Things like that are hard to find at Lowes in a length suitable to use for a charging or work rod.
Your pride has been bashed before. I'm much more concerned with Bertha...Had a batch that I wound up using the wrong set of prepped brass, still had moisture in the case from sonic cleaning - damp powder charge.
Found that at the '15 MDS shoot, primer ignited, put the bullet about 2/2.25" past the chamber - didn't even obturate the base on the round. Knocked it out with very little effort.
No damage to the rifle, just hurt my pride.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
I completely tore it down after the squib/range trip. No bulge in the barrel, no identifiable detriment to the bore (lands/grooves). After that incident, there was a minimum of 900 rounds put thru that barrel, no change in accuracy or reliability.
Knocked the squib out by hand with my trucks antenna. Probably the BEST case for a bad scenario.
Another good tool to use is a length of fiberglass rod. I buy those Home depot driveway marking flags, then cut them to whatever length I need. We keep them at the trap range in case a wad gets stuck in a shotgun barrel.
JoeR
You've got the hands of a surgeon...
sgt23preston
USMC LLA. NRA Life Member
I use a 1/4" Diameter x 12" long brass rod...
Drive it back toward where it came from...
Brass is softer than your hardened steel bore = no damage...
IF I'm at the range I tap the brass rod on the floor (after removing the magazine)...
A few firm taps on the floor & it's clear UNLESS you shot a 2nd round into the 1st round...
IF you did shoot a 2nd round, you'll probably need a new barrel = BULGED Barrel..
Drive it back toward where it came from...
Brass is softer than your hardened steel bore = no damage...
IF I'm at the range I tap the brass rod on the floor (after removing the magazine)...
A few firm taps on the floor & it's clear UNLESS you shot a 2nd round into the 1st round...
IF you did shoot a 2nd round, you'll probably need a new barrel = BULGED Barrel..
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
With a few malpractice suits.
*That upper had been completely blown apart maybe 2/3 times, 1st time was to chop the railed gas block and install the rail, bed the barrel extension. 2nd time was after the squib. And I think I had it apart 1 more time to swap the chopped block for an aftermarket, but ended up retaining the one I chopped down, aftermarket wasn't set up for pinning.
Nice.
I always get lucky with you...
I always get lucky with you...
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
It'll be fine. It's not like you stacked a few rounds behind it. 
It'll be fine. It's not like you stacked a few rounds behind it.
Thank God it wasn't suppressed at the time, could have been bad....
BigDaddy
Ultimate Member
- Feb 7, 2014
- 2,235
The feathers make it a messy solution
You wouldn't expect one unless the barrel was previously damaged, or you fired a second round.
That's a hell of a antenna.
I squibbed a handload in a Mod 10 S&W and I had to hammer pretty hard on the brass squib rod. Didn't actually have a hammer, so I banged it on the wooden range table. That did bad things to the screw that holds the cylinder.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
Definitely.
I was simply lucky, only the primer ignited, so the base of the round didn't fully expand to the bore. Popped the upper off, pulled the BCG, and 2 quick taps was all it took to pop that 300gr Plated HP out. Didn't even bow the antenna. Took more time to clean out all the unburnt H110 than it did to clear the bore.
If there's any doubts about that upper, just let me know, I'll move some stuff around and buy it back, gladly.
Jerry M
Ultimate Member
Congratulations on get it cleared. If anyone every has the same problem try leaving the barrel in the freezer overnight, before you start hammering.
Good luck
Jerry
Good luck
Jerry
I did that on a sidelock muzzleloader once. Used grease too. Someone told me to get cheap hand cream next time. easier to clean up. No choice with the sidelock. Ball was stuck due to improper cut wad that got stuck.
Where would one find an adaptor to fit the zerc to the muzzle threads? BTW, if this was an AR with a gas port, this would not work eh.
It'll be fine. It's not like you stacked a few rounds behind it.
I had 4 rounds of 45ACP stack up in one of my subguns. (Steel cased Wolf which I no longer use in that gun) Fortunately, it had had a very slow full auto rate of fire so it was not more. There was no damage to the barrel. I ended up using a 6" long drywall type screw into the back side of the last 3 bullets and pulling them out backwards. The initial squib round I was able to tap out forward with a wooden dowel.
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