1911 grip screw question

lx1x · Nov 4, 2012

so i was trying to replace the grip on my sw1911ta. was taking off the last screw and somehow broke the screwhead.. it sheared off from the main thread itself.. :mad54:

questions:
1) are they all the same size? if i order one from brownells or midway.

2) how the hell you take the broken screw out? i tried to remove the whole bushing but the leftover screw is still on the way of the bushing screw driver slot.. not enough for me to insert a screwdriver for the bushing. :mad54:

tia.

BUFF7MM · Nov 4, 2012

The bushings should all be the same size.
Try a small pair of vice grips to take the bushings out, you'll probably need a new one anyway if the internal threads are stripped.

BradMacc82 · Nov 4, 2012

Buff7mm said:
The bushings should all be the same size.
Try a small pair of vice grips to take the bushings out, you'll probably need a new one anyway if the internal threads are stripped.

Yep, when I was working on my brother's springfield, had the EXACT same issue arise. What I wound up doing to get the old bushing out (and Chad may cringe at this) - was to use a dremel and coarse cutoff wheel and cut a slot across the sheared screw/bushing, then back it out with a flathead and replace them all with new hardware.

I used hex-key hardware on the replacements, figure the key would round off before the screw shears.

BUFF7MM · Nov 4, 2012

BradMacc82 said:
Yep, when I was working on my brother's springfield, had the EXACT same issue arise. What I wound up doing to get the old bushing out (and Chad may cringe at this) - was to use a dremel and coarse cutoff wheel and cut a slot across the sheared screw/bushing, then back it out with a flathead and replace them all with new hardware.

I used hex-key hardware on the replacements, figure the key would round off before the screw shears.

I was going to suggested a file to make a notch, I was thinking along the lines of the dermal also, but with my luck it'd slip and OMG, hope the grips cover up that F'up.

BradMacc82 · Nov 4, 2012

Buff7mm said:
I was going to suggested a file to make a notch, I was thinking along the lines of the dermal also, but with my luck it'd slip and OMG, hope the grips cover up that F'up.

I was SO worried about that happening, but thankfully my brother had already put a few "Idiot scratches" on the frame, so if it did I wasn't going to worry too much.

Thankfully, a steady hand and some careful planning kept that from happening.

lx1x · Nov 4, 2012

yeah.. i bet chad is cringing with the word dremel.. lol

its late now.. i'll play with it some when i have a chance.. i have a broken screw extractor.. but its a bit wider.. dont want to mess it up totally.

thanks for advise.. appreciate it.

BUFF7MM · Nov 4, 2012

We want to see pictures, even if you scratch it.

SCARCQB · Nov 4, 2012

As long as you stay away from instant gun blue and Al... your 1911 will be fine

BradMacc82 · Nov 4, 2012

SCARCQB said:
As long as you stay away from instant gun blue and Al... your 1911 will be fine

But how else is he going to get that "Custom" finish on a perfectly good 1911??

lx1x - I'm sure somewhere he's trembling at the thought of the dremel, but it actually worked very well, it doesn't take very much pressure or time to make a small notch in the hardware, I was quite surprised it went as quickly and easily as it did.

teratos · Nov 4, 2012

BradMacc82 said:
But how else is he going to get that "Custom" finish on a perfectly good 1911??

lx1x - I'm sure somewhere he's trembling at the thought of the dremel, but it actually worked very well, it doesn't take very much pressure or time to make a small notch in the hardware, I was quite surprised it went as quickly and easily as it did.

Glad the Dremel worked.

BradMacc82 · Nov 4, 2012

teratos said:
Glad the Dremel worked.

Not often someone gets to say that when the useage is on firearms... :lol2:

Funny, but sadly true...

SCARCQB · Nov 4, 2012

If the dremel does not work, use a blow torch, hammer drill , chisel and a 10lb sledge hammer.

teratos · Nov 4, 2012

BradMacc82 said:
Not often someone gets to say that when the useage is on firearms...

Funny, but sadly true...

I was thinking the same thing. I use my Dremel all the time. Not so much on guns.

BradMacc82 · Nov 4, 2012

SCARCQB said:
If the dremel does not work, use a blow torch, hammer drill , chisel and a 10lb sledge hammer.

Or..., give it to me.

teratos - it's the only time I've ever taken a dremel to a gun, at least that I'll ever admit to anyways. :innocent0

lx1x · Nov 4, 2012

nooooooo... no sledge hammers!!

LOL

SCARCQB · Nov 4, 2012

Its okay... dont worry.. I have texted AL... he is en route. ( after he stops by home depot to get a cut-off wheel and hacksaw blades)

lx1x · Nov 4, 2012

SCARCQB said:
Its okay... dont worry.. I have texted AL... he is en route. ( after he stops by home depot to get a cut-off wheel and hacksaw blades)

Oh no! Will let the dogs out of the crates then. LOL

They do need new chew toy. Hehe

SCARCQB · Nov 4, 2012

This is why I do not own stainless steel guns.. Idiot marks and scratches do not cover up with a SHARPIE

lx1x · Nov 5, 2012

SCARCQB said:
This is why I do not own stainless steel guns.. Idiot marks and scratches do not cover up with a SHARPIE

lol yep.

DefensivePatriot · Nov 5, 2012

SCARCQB said:
This is why I do not own stainless steel guns.. Idiot marks and scratches do not cover up with a SHARPIE

When I went through the Springfield Armorers Course, the instructor told us when working on the Stainless 1911's use the red (brillow) type of pad sold at the autobody shop and lightly buff with that and it will buff them (idiot marks) away. I have not actually tried this as I take care of my babies and have not had one in for repair. He swore by it though, he was with Team 1. Try it at your own risk.

As too the OP
He informed us that if the grip screw is not moving dont force it because they will break, and warned us that removal is a B!tch if broken. One of the only authorized uses of the dremel and masking tape.

1911 grip screw question

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