Rust removal and Refurbish

TxAggie · Aug 23, 2014

Sorry to create another thread, I tried searching but I didn't see a dedicated thread. Could someone please direct me to a good resource or previous thread for refinishing C&R? I have a 1903 Springfield with some rust spots and in need of general mild restoration.

Thanks for any help.

stu929 · Aug 23, 2014

Tim Shufflin. Shuffs parkerizing hes very reasonable and does a great job.

fred333 · Aug 23, 2014

If it's surface rust, some fine steel wool and CLP.

K31 · Aug 23, 2014

I like soaking rusty parts in Kroil for while and then gently hitting them with fine steel wool.

Some other member posted about this a while back. I haven't tried it but it sounds promising:

http://www.frontiermetalcleaner.com/

LONGSHOT · Aug 23, 2014

BUY SOME frontier big 45 metal cleaner.it will not hurt the finish,but removes rust,diirt and it works great for cleaning the bore.

h2u · Aug 23, 2014

K31 said:
I like soaking rusty parts in Kroil for while and then gently hitting them with fine steel wool.

100% agree with this for starters. Soak in Kroil and use 0000 steel wool (soaked in Kroil) to gently remove rust spots. After this, if you still need anything additional, then you can move on to the next process.

TxAggie · Aug 23, 2014

Thanks! Is Kroil available most places (ie Bass Pro) or is it a special order thing?

SRD · Aug 23, 2014

TxAggie said:
Thanks! Is Kroil available most places (ie Bass Pro) or is it a special order thing?

I've never found it local,always ordered it.Marine (boat) techs use it all the time so you might be able to snag some from them if there are any close to you.

K31 · Aug 23, 2014

LONGSHOT said:
BUY SOME frontier big 45 metal cleaner.it will not hurt the finish,but removes rust,diirt and it works great for cleaning the bore.

Sounds like a longshot.

somd_mustangs · Aug 23, 2014

I'll pass along the word of caution from Mawkie - use gloves and ventilation when working with Kroil (you know, like the warning on the can says). I can personally attest that this is a good idea, I got pretty sick when I got this crap all over my hands the one time I've used it in the man-cave. Could be coincidence... but I for damn sure will heed the warnings next time.

TxAggie · Aug 23, 2014

somd_mustangs said:
I'll pass along the word of caution from Mawkie - use gloves and ventilation when working with Kroil (you know, like the warning on the can says). I can personally attest that this is a good idea, I got pretty sick when I got this crap all over my hands the one time I've used it in the man-cave. Could be coincidence... but I for damn sure will heed the warnings next time.

Thanks for the warning. There goes my idea of cleaning it while watching the tube with my wife.

Machodoc · Aug 23, 2014

Send it off to be re-blued or parked? NO!! You'll just be spending money to de-value the gun. It'll make it pretty, but collectors will scoff.

Use ultra-fine steel wool on it? I say a big NOPE! I've tested to see if you can damage bluing with 0000 steel wool, and you can.

Use Kroil on the rust? BIG YES!! Soak those places in Kano Kroil and give it lots of time to work. Keep the rusty parts nice and wet with the stuff for a couple of days. It will soften up the corrosion, eventually turning it to mushy brown stuff.

Then, instead of steel wool, get a Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner rust and dirt remover. It looks like a stainless steel pot scrubber, but it's definitely different! I was very suspicious of using one of these the first time ... and even still suspicious the second time ... but it really works great! I used it on a pretty crudded up Mauser, along with soakings of Kroil, and it came out looking far better than I expected. Since then, I've used the combination on some pretty grim-looking pieces, and they've come out looking surprisingly good.

You can do things in ways that work, or you can do them in ways that work better, with less potential damage to the firearm.

Overboost44 · Aug 23, 2014

Do you think that PB Blaster works like Kroil? Not trying to cheap out here, but it is easier to find and seems to be very similar in properties. I have a barrel to do and will try it out unless someone says "NO, don't do that". I just have to pick up the Big 45 FMC, so it will be a few days. I will report my findings.

eddiek2000 · Aug 24, 2014

It is close, but kroil is better. Do a search for the kroil google deal. I got some spray and added a quart and will have plenty for awhile.

Overboost44 · Aug 24, 2014

eddiek2000 said:
It is close, but kroil is better. Do a search for the kroil google deal. I got some spray and added a quart and will have plenty for awhile.

That is great. Thanks for the tip on the google deal!

somd_mustangs · Aug 24, 2014

PB's a staple out in the garage for working on the Rustangs - I've used it on a few of the old Colts to help free up pins and screws (this stuff does a great job of penetrating into nooks and crannies). It did the trick without damaging the fragile bluing but I didn't let it soak for any real length of time or try to remove rust with it. I think it uses a different chemical process than Kroil.

Other than poisoning me (due to my own stupidity) Kroil did the job removing rust from a Colt 1903 without messing up what was left of the high-polish blue. I used an old soft toothbrush vice the wool or Big45 to agitate it. I think even the Big45 might have ruined the super-delicate fire-blue on the small parts that had speckling. Someday I'll experiment with that...

Here's another question though - for a Parkerized or phosphate finish, won't wool or the Big45 "polish" the finish smooth(er) and/or make it shiny?

Machodoc · Aug 24, 2014

Overboost44 said:
Do you think that PB Blaster works like Kroil? Not trying to cheap out here, but it is easier to find and seems to be very similar in properties. I have a barrel to do and will try it out unless someone says "NO, don't do that". I just have to pick up the Big 45 FMC, so it will be a few days. I will report my findings.

eddiek2000 said:
It is close, but kroil is better. Do a search for the kroil google deal. I got some spray and added a quart and will have plenty for awhile.

I'd really go with the Kano Kroil. The key is not to be in a hurry, to keep putting a little on the rusty spots 2-3 times a day for 2-3 days, and let it thoroughly penetrate and soften the corrosion.

Here are a couple of other tips:

If you ever encounter a rifle that has corrosion "blooms" (usually between the furniture and the metal), soak them (as described above) and then tap them *very* lightly with a small brass hammer, then clean with a nylon brush. The soft tapping, after a Kroil soak, with collapse the piled-up corrosion. We're talking about thick corrosion spots here ... the kind that will probably have pitting under them ... and not just light surface rust. (If you don't fully understand what I'm saying here, just ignore it.)

Cheap battery-powered toothbrushes are a good way to go on rust that has been thoroughly soaked in Kroil. I'd probably not use one on an exceptionally rare piece, but if you have something that has been through the mill already, it's another safe option for removing softened light corrosion and getting inside pitting. Don't spatter Kroil into your eyes, on your wife's kitchen table, etc., while using it, though. Be careful!

Machodoc · Aug 24, 2014

somd_mustangs said:
Here's another question though - for a Parkerized or phosphate finish, won't wool or the Big45 "polish" the finish smooth(er) and/or make it shiny?

Good question. I don't know the answer, but I wouldn't use anything more abrasive than a soft nylon brush on a park'ed surface. That's where a Kroil soaking and electric toothbrush might be safest to use. I'd be inclined to say that the Big 45 material, because it's softer than the park'ed steel, wouldn't polish the finish, but even 0000 steel wool will, to some extent. Whether or not that would be enough to be noticeable, would depend on how hard, and long, it was applied.

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