Brass Annealing

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  • Todd S

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2012
    1,556
    Glen Rock, PA
    So, SWMBO decided that the stimulus check is not going to renamed Todd's New Gun check. But she didn't say it couldn't become Todd's new annealing machine check. Do any of you guys anneal rifle brass? If so, what kind of machine do you have? I'm looking at the induction annealer from Fluxeon.
     

    Flametamer

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 6, 2014
    796
    Frederick County
    I anneal rifle brass used for precision shooting. Plinking brass I do not anneal; when its no good, it goes in the recycle bucket and someone leaves me new donations at the range.

    I built an annealer that uses a propane torch. Fun project and fully functional. Lots of YouTube videos on the topic. I would like to build an induction annealer, even bought most of the parts, but have not gotten a round tuit yet. (I think I saw a YouTube DIY induction annealer some time ago).
     

    Speed3

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 19, 2011
    7,816
    MD
    I had a girarud annealer but it was temp sensitive and took toolong to set up for me (I anneal after every firing). I now use the AMP annealer, which is awesome. I can anneal a 6x47 case in about 4 seconds, zero set up and its super consistent. It will spit out a custom code to use for annealing that is based off your "sample" case.
     

    Todd S

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2012
    1,556
    Glen Rock, PA
    I had a girarud annealer but it was temp sensitive and took toolong to set up for me (I anneal after every firing). I now use the AMP annealer, which is awesome. I can anneal a 6x47 case in about 4 seconds, zero set up and its super consistent. It will spit out a custom code to use for annealing that is based off your "sample" case.


    I’ve read most of the info on the AMP site. Obviously they up charge their Annealer, due to the massive amount of testing they do for their system. I do not begrudge them for recuperating their investment. Do you think their research is worth an extra $800 over the Fluxeon?


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    Speed3

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 19, 2011
    7,816
    MD
    I’ve read most of the info on the AMP site. Obviously they up charge their Annealer, due to the massive amount of testing they do for their system. I do not begrudge them for recuperating their investment. Do you think their research is worth an extra $800 over the Fluxeon?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    This is probably the unpopular opinion, but unless you're shooting for .5MOA groups at distance, I dont think an annealer is worth the money or time. I think you can achieve great success without the extra step for majority of shooters (I know guys with 14 firings on brass that never annealed and are classified as high master).

    The AMP is the best out there for sure but as you said its expensive. The large Fluxeon seems to be about $1,300 and would be a good comparison to the AMP 2 with Aztec (does 50 bmg), so not a huge price difference. Is the fluxeon able to sample a case in 20 seconds and give you exact temperatures or settings to use for that lot of brass? I dont know the product well enough. Each lot of brass can have varying neck thicknesses (yes lapua and Peterson too) that would require a slightly different temperature to get perfect annealing.

    IMO annealing is a rabbit hole when your trying to squeeze the last bit of vertical out of a round at distance. Annelaing helps with consistent neck tension. The next step is to get get an arbor press with a force meter guage. Turning necks could be a cheaper option and a better bang for your buck. Sure it could help with necks splitting on converted 300 blk cases but you can buy lots of brass for $1,500 lol.
     

    Todd S

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2012
    1,556
    Glen Rock, PA
    This is probably the unpopular opinion, but unless you're shooting for .5MOA groups at distance, I dont think an annealer is worth the money or time. I think you can achieve great success without the extra step for majority of shooters (I know guys with 14 firings on brass that never annealed and are classified as high master).

    The AMP is the best out there for sure but as you said its expensive. The large Fluxeon seems to be about $1,300 and would be a good comparison to the AMP 2 with Aztec (does 50 bmg), so not a huge price difference. Is the fluxeon able to sample a case in 20 seconds and give you exact temperatures or settings to use for that lot of brass? I dont know the product well enough. Each lot of brass can have varying neck thicknesses (yes lapua and Peterson too) that would require a slightly different temperature to get perfect annealing.

    IMO annealing is a rabbit hole when your trying to squeeze the last bit of vertical out of a round at distance. Annelaing helps with consistent neck tension. The next step is to get get an arbor press with a force meter guage. Turning necks could be a cheaper option and a better bang for your buck. Sure it could help with necks splitting on converted 300 blk cases but you can buy lots of brass for $1,500 lol.


    I already started neck turning. I believe that neck turning helped with my 6.5 Creedmoor accuracy. I’m not yet shooting 1000 yds, but hopefully will soon. If we can actually act as free Americans...

    My thought right now, is to invest in good sizing and seating dies, rather than annealing. I have found that a Forster seating die is superior than a Hornady seating die. Once I got a concentricity gauge, it became pretty obvious. When I get really serious in loading 300 Win Mag and above, it might make more sense to anneal more. Those cases are pretty expensive.


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    Speed3

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 19, 2011
    7,816
    MD
    I already started neck turning. I believe that neck turning helped with my 6.5 Creedmoor accuracy. I’m not yet shooting 1000 yds, but hopefully will soon. If we can actually act as free Americans...

    My thought right now, is to invest in good sizing and seating dies, rather than annealing. I have found that a Forster seating die is superior than a Hornady seating die. Once I got a concentricity gauge, it became pretty obvious. When I get really serious in loading 300 Win Mag and above, it might make more sense to anneal more. Those cases are pretty expensive.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    If your using a bolt gun, get yourself a full length bushing die so you can adjust neck tensions. Forster makes good dies(I have a set of whidden and dont notice any differences). RCBS are good also.

    At 1k SD and ES play a big part, they to get those as low as you can while staying in the high accuracy node. Primers can make more of a difference than most think when it comes to ES.

    Good luck, it's always a challenge chasing stuff.

    There was a match last weekend in PA, some are open at least
     

    Todd S

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2012
    1,556
    Glen Rock, PA
    If your using a bolt gun, get yourself a full length bushing die so you can adjust neck tensions. Forster makes good dies(I have a set of whidden and dont notice any differences). RCBS are good also.

    At 1k SD and ES play a big part, they to get those as low as you can while staying in the high accuracy node. Primers can make more of a difference than most think when it comes to ES.

    Good luck, it's always a challenge chasing stuff.

    There was a match last weekend in PA, some are open at least


    I really have not investigated primers, yet. Once I get, dies getting low runout, SD and ES, I’m going to start really digging into different components. I.E. match primer or Magnum primers vs regular primers.


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