Price check on 880 crates of 7.62x54r?

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  • Mark75H

    MD Wear&Carry Instructor
    Industry Partner
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 25, 2011
    17,243
    Outside the Gates
    Damn. I have been doing this wrong the whole time, ugh. I usually cleaned it with either windex or ammonia mixed with water. Then I cleaned it with bore cleaner ans lube it afterward.

    So just hot water run through the barrel would be good enough? Then I guess lube it afterward?

    compressed air after the water would probably be ideal, but dry patches until dry will get the job done ... then oil
     

    Machodoc

    Old Guy
    Jun 27, 2012
    5,745
    Just South of Chuck County
    Ammonia with hot water, when available, was an old U.S. military remedy in the days when all primers were corrosive. I still use it. A plain hot water flush, followed by a good patch cleaning and lube is probably just as good. Windex is useless -- unless you have a bottle from the 1970s. It contains no ammonia, in spite of the fact that the label says, "Ammonia D" (which isn't ammonia).
     

    dtmeyers

    Active Member
    Jun 22, 2013
    329
    I usually put the bayonet on, stab into the ground, pull bolt, pour hot water down barrel, then run patches to clean/dry
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,344
    HoCo
    Some people follow the water with WD40 which displaces the water
    That's what I do on the side lock muzzle loader
     

    Machodoc

    Old Guy
    Jun 27, 2012
    5,745
    Just South of Chuck County
    I usually put the bayonet on, stab into the ground, pull bolt, pour hot water down barrel, then run patches to clean/dry

    That's a creative approach. Not sure I'd do this with a gun that I want to keep as nice as possible, but for a mis-matched shooter ....

    Some people follow the water with WD40 which displaces the water
    That's what I do on the side lock muzzle loader

    Melnic - I figured that you'd be one of the few people who knows that the "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement", and it was originally formulated for use in military vehicles that would die when moisture got into the distributor cap and/or on the points and condenser (young 'uns can Google those part names). My only caveat would be that a very good gunsmith once told me that WD-40 leaves behind a waxy substance that can build up over time, so you might want to avoid getting it on small moving parts, such as are found in semi-auto rifles and pistols.
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,344
    HoCo
    Melnic - I figured that you'd be one of the few people who knows that the "WD" in WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement",
    My mechanical engineer reminds me that EVERYTIME I say WD40.

    the black powder muzzleloader guys mix up ballistol, water and Hydrogen Peroxide to clean out the corrosive BP. There's a "moose milk" formula out there that also adds pine sol to it. Ballistol and water turns it white.
     

    why2kmax

    Jacka$$
    Nov 22, 2008
    1,181
    Shrewsbury PA
    Never tried that, but it seems like as good an approach as any. Ballistol is some interesting stuff! It does a very good job for long-term storage if the humidity is controlled.

    Well, thats just to get the crap out and prevent the quick rusting. After that I clean and oil as normal

    Got this from Clandestine on Scotts gunsmithing website (an IP here).


    How I Clean Corrosive Firing Residue:

    I use and HIGHLY recommend a product called Ballistol. This Product is not utilized straight for this specific purpose, you make a mix with it 10 Parts Water/1 Part Ballistol. Once mixed, the Solution
    will look like Milk. If the Solution sits for an extended period of time, it can separate, so before usage shake the Mixture thoroughly.

    The Ballistol Mixture cleans the Corrosive Salts with the Water and leaves a nice protective finish of Ballistol Oil once the Water evaporates. I take my Ballistol Solution and put it in a spray bottle which makes using the mixture very convenient. Ballsitol is a decent cleaner too, sort of an “Old School” CLP.


    http://www.scotts-gunsmithing.com/f-a-q/gunsmith-related-f-a-q/corrosive-ammunition-cleaning-tips/
     
    Last edited:

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,344
    HoCo
    HOCO show I saw one guy priced $160/440
    $312/880

    Don't know if anyone was buying
     

    240 towles

    master of puppets
    Mar 31, 2009
    4,251
    ?
    I boil the water before pouring it down the bore. It heats the metal up so hot you can't touch it directly and it evaporates the water in seconds.
     

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