ken792
Ultimate Member
If anyone is looking for a Glock 23 parts kit, I can probably make that happen.
80% Glock build costs
- Thread starter DENWA
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In an HQL state like Maryland what's the hold up with someone opening a shop for 80% work, where the work is done by the gun owner while the shop owner peers over your shoulder or leads a class with a set of tables.
I'm thinking the Clandestine model, where instead if teardown and inspection work, you do the drill out!
I also think someone could do land office business opening a shop where only 50+ year-old handguns are offered for sale, meaning no HQL crap.
I'm thinking the Clandestine model, where instead if teardown and inspection work, you do the drill out!
I also think someone could do land office business opening a shop where only 50+ year-old handguns are offered for sale, meaning no HQL crap.
turbogrimace
Member
I share your sentiments. It perpetuates the ignorance.
Wasn't there an ATF ruling which said you can't borrow the tools like that?
The problem with this is that the ATF has cracked down on stores that sell 80% lowers and help their customers mill them or clean them up. Here is a pretty gross example of what can go bad:
https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2...r-search-warrant-sheds-light-reason-atf-raid/
After much deliberation, I have decided to go this route and build a Glock19 from a Polymer80 compact 80% frame. I really didn't want to add to my caliber count, but I really like the newer compact design, so I have one on order from Midway. I wish I'd have seen the post sooner about Ranier having them in stock, Midway isn't shipping yet.
I did pick up a complete new factory Vickers slide the other day off gunbroker for $400 (with Wilson Combat sights), so add another $100 for the LPK and mags (3) and $150 for the lower, brings the total to $650. Not bad, considering you can deduct the cost of an HQL in my case..
Yes... if it's on CNC equipment. You can use someone's manual equipment (mill, drill press, etc) as long as you do it yourself, but not automated equipment like a CNC mill.
The new Gen 2 compact does not require milling of rails, they are SST drop in, front and rear, so no fitting. You just need a hand drill and a drill press to complete it. Remove the barrel block material (to clear the action spring), drill out the 3 holes and yer done.
Fox123
Ultimate Member
Not even drill press.... just dremel
True, heck.. I think I could finish one with a hand drill and a couple of files. Buddy ordered a couple from Ranier, they should ship as they show them in stock, may be working on one next weekend.
turbogrimace
Member
I almost ordered from rainier. But brownells had them for 120 and I needed a bunch of other supplies. Now I just have to be patient. They don't expect the shipment to arrive until mid march.
So the instructions say to finish it on a mill, but it's easy enough to do just as clean of a job with a dremel/sanding drum and a file?
So the instructions say to finish it on a mill, but it's easy enough to do just as clean of a job with a dremel/sanding drum and a file?
I ordered from Midway, I suspect they are the same as far as delivery. I am speculating a bit, since I don't have one yet, but the only 'milling' required for the compact version is to remove the few protrusions on the receiver deck and the barrel block (for the action spring to clear). It looks pretty basic, not very critical and you don't have to mill the slide grooves as the original one required, so I don't see an issue doing it with a drill press and end mill or simply hand tools, like a dremel or file. I'd be very careful with a dremel, as things can go bad fast if you aren't real careful, but removing 'most' of the areas with a sanding drum and then going back and finishing/cleaning them up with a file or fine sandpaper looks like it would be pretty easy to do. The section that is removed for the barrel block appears to be pretty thin and well marked, so you should be able to do that without a mill or drill press and cross-slide vise if they aren't an option, just go slow and be careful to not remove too much material.
I have access to a mill, so I will likely use it to remove the upper protrusions and the barrel block. Drilling the holes merely requires a bench vise and a hand drill.
I have access to a mill, so I will likely use it to remove the upper protrusions and the barrel block. Drilling the holes merely requires a bench vise and a hand drill.
turbogrimace
Member
I'll most likely use a mill too, but if it was a snap with a dremel why not give that a go. I'd like a nice smooth finish either way.
Having just done one that's what I recommend. Unless you've got a cross vice that is bolted to the drill press and gives you total directional control and stability, use a Dremel to remove that thin barrel block. If you only have a plain drill vice like I do, that's fine for milling off the top protrusions on the frame, but the end mill tends to "bite" in to that thin plastic on the barrel block which will make your jig jump around, and you can quickly take a chunk of plastic off where you don't want to. I started this with the vice and end mill, but finished it with a Dremel, and I'll finish this part with a Dremel from the get go if I ever do another one. That being said, I personally would not use a Dremel to finish the frame top protrusions unless I had no other option, for this the drill press will give you far better control and a better finish IMHO.
jjones88
Active Member
I just finished one of their compact lowers this weekend. I used a mill but in hindsight I should have just used files. On the mill it maybe took 10 min total to do all the work.
The jig just gets in the way doing the barrel block and the flex is pretty crappy overall within a milling vice. I ended up using C clamps to reduce some of flex, but needed a taller vice to prevent side to side wobble.
Next one, I'll just drill the holes, pull the frame out of the jig and just file down the material. A decent file cut through that polymer like butter. I'd say maybe an hour this way but I think I would have ended up with a better product.
The jig just gets in the way doing the barrel block and the flex is pretty crappy overall within a milling vice. I ended up using C clamps to reduce some of flex, but needed a taller vice to prevent side to side wobble.
Next one, I'll just drill the holes, pull the frame out of the jig and just file down the material. A decent file cut through that polymer like butter. I'd say maybe an hour this way but I think I would have ended up with a better product.
Thanks for the insight! I was worried about setting up the jig in a mill vise to do that barrel block removal, looks like it was warranted. I may look at doing that part by hand, or setting up the jig in the vise horizontally instead of vertically and using a ball end mill to remove most of that portion. Or... just do that part with a file, we'll see once I get one in my hands....
The other option, though more setup time and probably not worth it, is like how I did some of the work on completing a raw forged AR lower and use an angle block clamped to the table and then clamp the jig to the angle block. Honestly, I think I'd grab the files and just do it that way before I go through all of that setup on a mill just to remove that section.
The other option, though more setup time and probably not worth it, is like how I did some of the work on completing a raw forged AR lower and use an angle block clamped to the table and then clamp the jig to the angle block. Honestly, I think I'd grab the files and just do it that way before I go through all of that setup on a mill just to remove that section.
jjones88
Active Member
Your method of clamping to an angle block would remove most of the flex most likely. I have a mini mill so I don't have a lot of vertical space. But having a bigger milling vice would most likely prevent flex. Hindsight would have been to clamp to a bracket instead of using a vice.
Like I said, you'll most likely spend more time using the "right" tool then going to the hand file. It's shocking how easy it was to build in comparison to the sig p228 and 1911's.
You did a p228?
jjones88
Active Member
Yessir, have done two. Another super easy build.
I agree, build in morning, shoot in afternoon. I've only done one, but I'm planning on another.
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