AR-15 build info.

hughmon · Nov 17, 2009

JMintzer said:
Black Sharpie...

Not to worry, once you play with it enough, it'll have plenty more dings!

Jamie

Thanks, that I will give that a try.

X-Factor · Nov 22, 2009

Bump for Apone to come back....

S.A.M.G. · Nov 22, 2009

i recommend that all ar-15 builders get a copy of two books. "The AR-15 complete owners guide" by Walt Kuleck, and if you can get a hold of the M-16 23 & P manual it even have specs in there for making your own 4 prong and 5 prong sight tools. I made a few with my dremel and the dremel router attachment. My tool has five prongs on one side for A1 sights and four prongs on the other for A2 sights.

X-Factor · Nov 22, 2009

S.A.M.G. said:
i recommend that all ar-15 builders get a copy of two books. "The AR-15 complete owners guide" by Walt Kuleck, and if you can get a hold of the M-16 23 & P manual it even have specs in there for making your own 4 prong and 5 prong sight tools. I made a few with my dremel and the dremel router attachment. My tool has five prongs on one side for A1 sights and four prongs on the other for A2 sights.

For the standard front sight? Use a bullet. You only need ONE prong.

Did some digging today and here is what I found for a complete build that costs under $1,300.

-Bravo Company 16" Mid-length upper assembly, charging handle, BC BCG. Shipped to 20657 for $583.95

-Spike's Tactical ST-15 stripped lower (on sale right now), Spike's complete stock kit. Shipped to 20657 for $202.02

-Rock River Arms Lower Parts Kit with Ergo Grip, standard trigger. Estimated shipping is $100

-Yankee Hill Free Float Mid Length Rail with 1 rail cover. $155 shipped

-Timney AR-15 Competition 3lb Trigger. $194.95 before shipping

Now you just need an FFL, PMags, and ammo.

Russ D · Nov 22, 2009

X-Factor said:
For the standard front sight? Use a bullet. You only need ONE prong.

Did some digging today and here is what I found for a complete build that costs under $1,300.

-Bravo Company 16" Mid-length upper assembly, charging handle, BC BCG. Shipped to 20657 for $583.95

-Spike's Tactical ST-15 stripped lower (on sale right now), Spike's complete stock kit. Shipped to 20657 for $202.02

-Rock River Arms Lower Parts Kit with Ergo Grip, standard trigger. Estimated shipping is $100

-Yankee Hill Free Float Mid Length Rail with 1 rail cover. $155 shipped

-Timney AR-15 Competition 3lb Trigger. $194.95 before shipping

Now you just need an FFL, PMags, and ammo.

All of those proces are way high. DPMS LPK's go for 55$ shipped. Spikes lowers for 100$ shipped Also just about any Yankee Hill rail can be had for about 105$ Check the Ar15.com EE

X-Factor · Nov 22, 2009

You will notice that the shipped price from Spike's includes the M4 stock kit as well....

K-Romulus · Nov 23, 2009

X-Factor said:
You will notice that the shipped price from Spike's includes the M4 stock kit as well....

I dunno, if it was me (doing it over again), and already getting the Bravo Company upper, I would spend the extra $50 and get a complete Bravo Company lower group for $360 shipped (http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Lower-Receiver-Groups-M4-AR15-s/117.htm)

That's $584 + $360 = $944 for a complete rifle that rocks "The Chart" at a level equal to Colt.
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=14008
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pwswheghNQsEuEhjFwPrgTA&hl=en

X-Factor · Nov 23, 2009

Are the BC lower as good as their other stuff? It's a serious question, I've heard high accolades for BC uppers and BCGs, but nary a word about their lowers. Also, since an aftermarket trigger is on the list, what specific parts could be eliminated from the lower group if I were to build it piece by piece?

K-Romulus · Nov 23, 2009

X-Factor said:
Are the BC lower as good as their other stuff? It's a serious question, I've heard high accolades for BC uppers and BCGs, but nary a word about their lowers. Also, since an aftermarket trigger is on the list, what specific parts could be eliminated from the lower group if I were to build it piece by piece?

I would think so, based on the chart info (though the chart is is pretty thin on specific technical details for lowers, like metal composition, etc.), and BCM's general reputation.

I am not sure about your second question about parts: are you talking about the parts in the lower parts kit, the BCM lower group, or something else?

X-Factor · Nov 23, 2009

Lower parts kit.

K-Romulus · Nov 23, 2009

X-Factor said:
Lower parts kit.

OK, I guess you could leave out:

trigger (and trigger pin and trigger reset spring)
disconnector (and disconnector spring)
hammer (and hammer pin and hammer spring)

You would also not install the selector until the trigger/hammer get installed, as the selector interacts with the trigger assembly.

(bonus nerdiness follows) :sad20:

The selector spring and detent are installed at the same time as the grip, so if your selector detent doesn't fall out through the selector switch hole (maker specs vary) you could install both the grip and those parts while you're waiting on your new hammer/trigger, but leave the selector switch out at that point until you get the new hammer and trigger. You can get the selector in after that by putting the selector to halfway between fire and safe (assuming semi-auto) and pushing it in from the left until it locks with the detent.

You may just want to wait and do it all when the trigger/hammer are there.

X-Factor · Nov 23, 2009

K-Romulus said:
OK, I guess you could leave out:

trigger (and trigger pin and trigger reset spring)
disconnector (and disconnector spring)
hammer (and hammer pin and hammer spring)

You would also not install the selector until the trigger/hammer get installed, as the selector interacts with the trigger assembly.

(bonus nerdiness follows)
The selector spring and detent are installed at the same time as the grip, so if your selector detent doesn't fall out through the selector switch hole (maker specs vary) you could install both the grip and those parts while you're waiting on your new hammer/trigger, but leave the selector out at that point until you get the new hammer and trigger. You can get the selector in after that by putting the selector to halfway between fire and safe and pushing it in from the left until it locks with the detent.

You may just want to wait and do it all when the trigger/hammer are there.

Wow. Ok. Thanks.

Apone · Nov 24, 2009

X-Factor said:
Bump for Apone to come back....

Hey! I'm here!

X-Factor · Nov 24, 2009

More sections?

Russ D · Nov 24, 2009

What I'd like to see is a really in depth comparison and description of all the different barrel options. There's a pretty good selection of different articles on ARF but I've never seen a comprehensive collection of info comparing them. I've got first hand experience with 5 aftermarket barrels right now but there are literally dozens of options and it's difficult for many to make an informed decision without a seriously extensive search.

EDIT: This was a general request not asking APONE to come up with a somewhat impossible list.

X-Factor · Nov 24, 2009

Since I was the one that "complained", I'll submit what I'D like to see (not necessarily Apone, though that would be great) in addition to Russ' idea.

-Furniture (stocks, grips, "broomsticks" etc)
-Buffer assembly differences
-Compensators/flash hiders

Russ D · Nov 24, 2009

APONE knows his furniture and flash hiders well. His guns always have the best of both.

smokey · Nov 24, 2009

K-Romulus said:
OK, I guess you could leave out:

trigger (and trigger pin and trigger reset spring)
disconnector (and disconnector spring)
hammer (and hammer pin and hammer spring)

You would also not install the selector until the trigger/hammer get installed, as the selector interacts with the trigger assembly.

(bonus nerdiness follows)
The selector spring and detent are installed at the same time as the grip, so if your selector detent doesn't fall out through the selector switch hole (maker specs vary) you could install both the grip and those parts while you're waiting on your new hammer/trigger, but leave the selector switch out at that point until you get the new hammer and trigger. You can get the selector in after that by putting the selector to halfway between fire and safe (assuming semi-auto) and pushing it in from the left until it locks with the detent.

You may just want to wait and do it all when the trigger/hammer are there.

i've got the timney 4# from gunconnection. make sure to get some kns anti-rotating pins and tighten the two screws from the top to snug everything up. it's a GREAT trigger.

Apone · Nov 26, 2009

WTF? You guys are killin' me! :-P As far as furniture, that's really all about personal preference and what fits you and your shooting style. Flash hiders - I'll see what I can put together here soon. Should have some time coming up during the holidays. Barrel options would definitely be a loooong post. I just don't have enough experience with the different manufacturers out there. With barrels, I've found a couple of good vendors, and I stick with 'em.

X-Factor · Nov 26, 2009

Apone as far as the furniture is concerned I was asking what WORKS as opposed to what is junk.

AR-15 build info.

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