Looking for lead and lead hardening metals like antimony or pewter

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  • knastera

    Just another shooter
    May 6, 2013
    1,484
    Baltimore County
    Hi folks:

    I'm making .45 caliber conicals. Lead is pretty easy to get (although local sources would be fine too). What I'm having a hard time finding is reasonably priced antimony, pewter, or tin. Does anyone have a lead (no pun intended:D) on this?
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    Finally purchase march 5 and pick up june 11 only about 100 days of waiting

    Now we're on a delay and wait to be "not disapproved" scheme on casting components too? :sad20:

    Like iH8DemLibz said, wheel weights. Don't know of a source for antimony or tin and I'm told pewter is corrosive to your casting equipment.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,891
    Socialist State of Maryland
    When people refer to bullets as conicals, they are usually talking about black powder bullets. Are you planning to make bullets for black powder shooting? If so, you need dead soft lead and have no need for tin or antimony.

    If you are loading for centerfire rifle or pistol, you can find antimony and tin on ebay. You can also buy lead alloy ready to melt from a company called rotometals.

    Regards,

    John
     

    Cowboy T

    Active Member
    Well, if you're casting for .45 Colt or .45 Auto, softer is better. Actually, that's true for muzzleloaders as well, since they were brought up.

    I regularly shoot BHN 12 in a Ruger/TC-only .45 Colt load that I designed to have roughly .44 Magnum power. The load uses a healthy charge of 2400 under a 250gr LRNFP of BHN 12, straight wheel weights. When the firing pin hits, the round goes BOOM very satisfyingly. It chronos at 1,300 fps. I get no lead-fouling.

    Given this, you might want to reconsider hardening your lead. Here's an article from Glen Fryxell that goes into more detail.

    http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCommentsCBAlloys.htm
     

    wgttgw

    Active Member
    Apr 10, 2011
    284
    Cambridge
    I would buy some Linotype from eBay. I would only buy it in its original form (old printing thin plates) not ingots. Like said above you don't need to be as hard as some may think. A little Linotype will go a long way to hardening pure lead. 3 to 4 parts pure to 1 part Linotype will handle most shooting if the fit is right. 3 to 1 would be real close to clip on WW.
     

    JAGGUY

    Active Member
    Nov 4, 2009
    196
    Peoples Republik
    I've read that a lot of casters go to thrift stores and buy pewter pots and other items pretty cheaply.
    I think over on cast boolits forum they talk about it and how to identify pewter materials...
     

    SOMDSHOOT

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Nov 18, 2009
    5,601
    Indian Head
    When people refer to bullets as conicals, they are usually talking about black powder bullets. Are you planning to make bullets for black powder shooting? If so, you need dead soft lead and have no need for tin or antimony.

    If you are loading for centerfire rifle or pistol, you can find antimony and tin on ebay. You can also buy lead alloy ready to melt from a company called rotometals.

    Regards,

    John

    I need to step in on this one. This is not necessarily true. I cast several grain weights of .45 for my muzzleloader bullets and I also include Antimony in them for hunting. I'll have to assume that the OP is using sabots as I do, but, the addition of some lead harder is not a bad idea even if it is they are not being used with sabots.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,891
    Socialist State of Maryland
    If you use sabots, you can make the alloy anything that you want.

    When you shoot ball and patch or cap and ball, you should use soft lead as the low pressure of black powder may not allow the bullet to obturate in the bore if it is too hard.

    John
     

    SOMDSHOOT

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Nov 18, 2009
    5,601
    Indian Head
    If you use sabots, you can make the alloy anything that you want.

    When you shoot ball and patch or cap and ball, you should use soft lead as the low pressure of black powder may not allow the bullet to obturate in the bore if it is too hard.

    John

    :thumbsup: Very Good. I just had to clarify the usage.
     

    knastera

    Just another shooter
    May 6, 2013
    1,484
    Baltimore County
    I should clarify this. I'm casting 45 SWC for 45ACP, 44 conicals for my Remington 1858 replica. I'm also casting 50 cal black power target and minie ball rounds.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    22,891
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Andrew,

    If you are casting 45acp for Bullseye shooting, you can make them fairly soft as they are fired at a low velocity with a fast powder. The 1858 will tolerate a harder bullet if you load at least 30grains of powder in it. My hunting loads with the Remington use the same mix as my paper punching centerfire pistols but I use at least a 40 grain equivelent load of 777. These loads are all below 1000 FPS.

    Regards,

    John
     

    knastera

    Just another shooter
    May 6, 2013
    1,484
    Baltimore County
    Thanks for the information. I'm loading the 45 SWC ACP with 5.5 gr. of smokeless. If I can fit 40 gr of Pyrodex P behind a conical, that's what I'll shoot. I intentionally bought the 1858 target model so I could legally hunt with it as a backup/second shot to my 50 cal.
     

    Winterborn

    Moved to Texas
    Aug 19, 2010
    2,569
    Arlington, TX
    what was the bottom line on pewter pots since VERY few junk yards buy pewter - there is no market for them except for decoration

    I've seen them sell for very little at auctions

    Pewter is usually around 90% tin, with the remainder antimony and a bit of copper.

    Its a good addition to making a slightly harder alloy, the antimony is a hardener (and the copper) and the tin will allow your metal to flow better and fill the mold easier.

    I'd say use the 10/1 ration when adding to pure lead.
     

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