Polish Military WZ1970

Seagrave1963 · Jul 8, 2015

It arrived today: http://www.apexgunparts.com/pellet-pistol-polish-military-wz1970-caliber-177-4-5mm-vg.html

Looks better than expected (3 small surface rust spots on the barrel) and has a pretty strong spring kick. Haven't put any pellets through it yet as I need to find a .177 brush as the barrel looks crudy.

smdub · Jul 8, 2015

Do *NOT* dry fire it (again). The piston seal slams into the chamber end w/out the back pressure the pellet provides. Even once can destroy some guns.

Seagrave1963 · Jul 8, 2015

smdub said:
Do *NOT* dry fire it (again). The piston seal slams into the chamber end w/out the back pressure the pellet provides. Even once can destroy some guns.

Thank you for the advise!

hope I didn't do any damage (what damage would be caused and will it be easily noted?)

chevellenut71 · Jul 8, 2015

Dam out of stock :sad20:

smdub · Jul 8, 2015

The piston impact can damage the seal, piston/housing, and even break the spring from resonance. All of them will result in low pellet speed or even no pressure at all.

That said, you may have other issues to tackle first. Im GUESSING from the type designation these were made starting in 1970? Old airgun seals are two types: Plastic or leather. Either are likely in unusable condition. The plastic ones usually disintegrate over time and will need replacing. If waxy 'bits' come out when you shoot it or already exist in the port, its a toasted plastic seal. If it has a leather seal it will be rock hard by now like an old military leather sling. You can disassemble the gun and use something like Neatsfoot oil to make the seal soft again. Shooting the gun w/ either type of bad seal is basically the same as dry firing it. There will be no resistance to the piston slamming into the end.

So when you find a .177 pellet, see if it clears the barrel when shot. If it doesn't, you have to take it apart and figure out how to fix before shooting it any more. Plastic seal replacements may or may not exist for it. I've sometimes had to resort to machining new ones though most of the better known vintage Crosman/Diana/RWS/etc have aftermarket sources. No idea if CZ just copied someone else's design and replacement parts will fit. If you find it has a leather seal, and it still fires, you might just be able to dribble a couple drops down in the chamber and let it sit vs a full disassembly to recondition it.

NOTE: You will want to read up on springer disassembly before taking it apart. The spring is likely under a LOT of compression even at rest. They will come apart violently if unscrewed w/o a press to relieve tension carefully. Some require special tools/rods to put back together to avoid kinking and damaging the spring.

Old airguns can be fun but almost always require work if they've been sitting unused for decades.

Edit:
Found a webpage describing their takedown procedure. Seals are leather too!
http://www.pistolplace.com/2014/12/02/vintage-air-pistol-review-predom-lucznik-wz-1970/

Seagrave1963 · Jul 8, 2015

smdub said:
The piston impact can damage the seal, piston/housing, and even break the spring from resonance. All of them will result in low pellet speed or even no pressure at all.

That said, you may have other issues to tackle first. Im GUESSING from the type designation these were made starting in 1970? Old airgun seals are two types: Plastic or leather. Either are likely in unusable condition. The plastic ones usually disintegrate over time and will need replacing. If waxy 'bits' come out when you shoot it or already exist in the port, its a toasted plastic seal. If it has a leather seal it will be rock hard by now like an old military leather sling. You can disassemble the gun and use something like Neatsfoot oil to make the seal soft again. Shooting the gun w/ either type of bad seal is basically the same as dry firing it. There will be no resistance to the piston slamming into the end.

So when you find a .177 pellet, see if it clears the barrel when shot. If it doesn't, you have to take it apart and figure out how to fix before shooting it any more. Plastic seal replacements may or may not exist for it. I've sometimes had to resort to machining new ones though most of the better known vintage Crosman/Diana/RWS/etc have aftermarket sources. No idea if CZ just copied someone else's design and replacement parts will fit. If you find it has a leather seal, and it still fires, you might just be able to dribble a couple drops down in the chamber and let it sit vs a full disassembly to recondition it.

NOTE: You will want to read up on springer disassembly before taking it apart. The spring is likely under a LOT of compression even at rest. They will come apart violently if unscrewed w/o a press to relieve tension carefully. Some require special tools/rods to put back together to avoid kinking and damaging the spring.

Old airguns can be fun but almost always require work if they've been sitting unused for decades.

Edit:
Found a webpage describing their takedown procedure. Seals are leather too!
http://www.pistolplace.com/2014/12/02/vintage-air-pistol-review-predom-lucznik-wz-1970/

Thank you! Great info!

Got a small cleaning rod and .17 brush and did a quick clean and it looks great now. Picked up some pellets too and ran a few through it and it seems to work fine but will "condition" the leather seals before they get worse. It has 1976 stamped on the receiver.

This is a fun little air pistol!

eddiek2000 · Jul 15, 2015

Back in stock. Tempting.....

atom33 · Jul 15, 2015

eddiek2000 said:
Back in stock. Tempting.....

$95 plus about $10 shipping to Bmore

eddiek2000 · Jul 15, 2015

atom33 said:
$95 plus about $10 shipping to Bmore

Yep. One is inbound.

atom33 · Jul 15, 2015

Informative review from Dec 2014: http://www.pistolplace.com/2014/12/02/vintage-air-pistol-review-predom-lucznik-wz-1970/ (same as above) "A Wz.1970 in good condition should be capable of consistent 1″ groupings at 10m." Rear sight is adjustable for elevation & windage, has adjustable 2-stage trigger, all steel construction (no alloy).

Pyramid Air review 2007: http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2007/05/predom-target-pistol-by-lucznik/

A little info from a 2012 thread on buying one from APEX: http://www.theakforum.net/forums/88-apex-gun-parts/142847-wts-polish-military-wz1970-pellet-pistol-apex-gun-parts.html Apex actually had issue cleaning rods for these, original holster looks cool if you could find one.

atom33 · Jul 25, 2015

eddiek2000 said:
Yep. One is inbound.

Did you get it??

Seagrave1963 · Jul 26, 2015

If you plan on breaking it down to thoroughly clean it and re-condition the leather seal, plan on doing some cussing! I still have not gotten the sear pin back in place.

mutter, mutter. cuss, cuss

eddiek2000 · Jul 26, 2015

Been there done that. Assemble it with piston near bottom/latched position. Then activate trigger and pound piston with something to drive it up.

I spent 3 nights thing to figure that out.

Shoots nice. My son had a blast with it, he just couldn't cock it.

Seagrave1963 · Jul 26, 2015

eddiek2000 said:
Been there done that. Assemble it with piston near bottom/latched position. Then activate trigger and pound piston with something to drive it up.

I spent 3 nights thing to figure that out.

Shoots nice. My son had a blast with it, he just couldn't cock it.

Thanks - guess I need to find a dowel to put more force on the piston.

eddiek2000 · Jul 26, 2015

I did it with a toothbrush. Had to lightly pound it.

Seagrave1963 · Jul 26, 2015

eddiek2000 said:
I did it with a toothbrush. Had to lightly pound it.

I might have bigger problems then - I have already tried pushing/forcing it up without success after getting the pin into the sear when the piston was in the down position. The sear will not move out of the notch on the piston when assembling in that manner. When the piston is up and the sear is out of the notch, the holes on the sear and frame do not line up to allow the pin to be inserted.

eddiek2000 · Jul 26, 2015

Are you activating the lever at the top allowing the trigger to move?

Maybe the spring is not installed correctly?

Like I said, it took awhile to get it right.

Seagrave1963 · Jul 26, 2015

eddiek2000 said:
Are you activating the lever at the top allowing the trigger to move?

Yep - on the interior, right side of the frame.

eddiek2000 said:
Maybe the spring is not installed correctly?

Found that out after about the umpteenth attempt - the spring kept falling out of the indentation after I inserted the sear.

eddiek2000 said:
Like I said, it took awhile to get it right.

Not giving up as it is a fun little air pistol.

Thanks for the feedback (and assurance I wasn't too far off in my attempts!)

eddiek2000 · Jul 28, 2015

Just in case you are still battling reassembly - I added some M1 grease to the sear spring to help keep it in place during assembly. I also added a touch to where the sear and piston contact. Seemed to help.

Seagrave1963 · Aug 6, 2015

eddiek2000 said:
Just in case you are still battling reassembly - I added some M1 grease to the sear spring to help keep it in place during assembly. I also added a touch to where the sear and piston contact. Seemed to help.

I'll give that a try - yes, it is still in parts and fingers ache!

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