New or Use an existing lower

j_h_smith · Jun 24, 2016

I've got the 50 Beowulf SBR going and was going to use an already owned lower. I'm wondering if I should buy a new lower to build this rifle? Why waste a pre Oct 2013 lower for this rifle?

Do you have any thoughts on the subject?

There was just 1 reason I was going to use the pre Oct lower. It's a Spike's lower with a serial number that starts with SBR. Building a SBR with a serial number of SBR would be cool, should I "waste" this lower on this build?

Whadda think?

MEGARMS · Jun 24, 2016

Buy an 80% lower, mill it out, and engrave any serial number you want on it.

foodpoison · Jun 24, 2016

Man, sbr on the number is cool for sure. Kinda depends on how many pre 10/01/13 lowers you have.

foodpoison · Jun 24, 2016

MEGARMS said:
Buy an 80% lower, mill it out, and engrave any serial number you want on it.

even better

j_h_smith · Jun 24, 2016

foodpoison said:
Man, sbr on the number is cool for sure. Kinda depends on how many pre 10/01/13 lowers you have.

I've got more pre Oct 13 than I really need, but not enough that I want to waste 1. Does that make sense?

j_h_smith · Jun 24, 2016

MEGARMS said:
Buy an 80% lower, mill it out, and engrave any serial number you want on it.

Not interested in that amount of work when a factory lower will work. But thanks for the suggestion!

MEGARMS · Jun 24, 2016

j_h_smith said:
Not interested in that amount of work when a factory lower will work. But thanks for the suggestion!

If you have more pre Oct 1, 2013 lowers than you need, then why not use the one with SBR in the serial number for this build? Seems like a no brainer to me.

awptickes · Jun 24, 2016

It doesn't matter what you build the SBR on, because you can always take it off the registry, or put a >16" barrel on it.

rayrevolver · Jun 24, 2016

Whatever lower you use, its not a bad idea to build it and shoot it to make sure its squared away. Would stink to SBR a lower and then have problems with it.

j_h_smith · Jun 24, 2016

rayrevolver said:
Whatever lower you use, its not a bad idea to build it and shoot it to make sure its squared away. Would stink to SBR a lower and then have problems with it.

Yep, that's what I'm thinking too.

fabsroman · Jun 25, 2016

You just need to keep everything straight. The pre FSA2013 lowers can be built any way you like. A new lower can never have a lightweight barrel on it as far as I am concerned, even if it is a SBR. For a .50 Beowulf, I would just get a new lower and use that instead of my pre FSA2013 lowers. Those pre FSA2013 lowers are slated for JP rifle barrels with the JP Rifle heat dissipation system on the barrel. That barrel and heat dissipation system cannot be put on a post FSA2013 lower. Now, it is my position that a SBR on a post FSA2013 lower must be HBAR. Not too hard with .300BLK, 6.8 SPC, .458 SOCOM, .50 Beowulf, and other large cartridges. A little more difficult for stuff like 5.7x28, 9mm, and some 5.56/.223.

If it is any solace or consolation, I am building SBRs in 5.56, .300 BLK, and .458 SOCOM out of post FSA2013 lowers and I am contemplating a 4th SBR build with a post FSA2013 lower. All will be HBAR. The debate on the 4th SBR is a tough one. SOB

GUNSnROTORS · Jun 25, 2016

Do you reload fabs?

fabsroman · Jun 25, 2016

GUNSnROTORS said:
Do you reload fabs?

For pretty much everything, even when buying 12 gauge factory target shells is almost the same cost as reloading them. I am looking forward to getting into .300 BLK and .458 SOCOM. Might even make my own brass for .300 BLK out of .223 brass. First things first though, I need to find the time to shoot such that ammo is actually required to be replenished. Thought I was going clays shooting on Father's Day. NOPE.

Obviously, rimfire is an exception. No reloading there. lol

Think I am also going to get a Dillon press or two for this stuff in lieu of the RCBS Rock Chucker I currently have. Kind of like reloading on a Mec 650 jr. when I started shooting a ton of clays. I was spending more time reloading than shooting. Can only imagine how long it takes to reload .223 on a Rock Chucker just for a couple of mag dumps.

I am one of those people that wonders how everything works. Even when I was a little kid, I was always wondering how the car's engine worked as my dad drove it. Figuring things out is what keeps me ticking, especially mechanical things. I told a buddy of mine once that I was upgrading my computer, and he said "Jesus Fabs, you modified the Mustang, you modified your truck, you modified your guns, and now your computer too. You have a problem. Can't you just leave anything alone?" I still laugh about that comment and it happened about 12 years ago, maybe a little more.

outrider58 · Jun 25, 2016

j_h_smith said:
I've got more pre Oct 13 than I really need, but not enough that I want to waste 1. Does that make sense?

SBR that thing! :thumbsup:

GUNSnROTORS · Jun 25, 2016

fabsroman said:
For pretty much everything, even when buying 12 gauge factory target shells is almost the same cost as reloading them. I am looking forward to getting into .300 BLK and .458 SOCOM. Might even make my own brass for .300 BLK out of .223 brass. First things first though, I need to find the time to shoot such that ammo is actually required to be replenished. Thought I was going clays shooting on Father's Day. NOPE.

Obviously, rimfire is an exception. No reloading there. lol

Think I am also going to get a Dillon press or two for this stuff in lieu of the RCBS Rock Chucker I currently have. Kind of like reloading on a Mec 650 jr. when I started shooting a ton of clays. I was spending more time reloading than shooting. Can only imagine how long it takes to reload .223 on a Rock Chucker just for a couple of mag dumps.

I am one of those people that wonders how everything works. Even when I was a little kid, I was always wondering how the car's engine worked as my dad drove it. Figuring things out is what keeps me ticking, especially mechanical things. I told a buddy of mine once that I was upgrading my computer, and he said "Jesus Fabs, you modified the Mustang, you modified your truck, you modified your guns, and now your computer too. You have a problem. Can't you just leave anything alone?" I still laugh about that comment and it happened about 12 years ago, maybe a little more.

I'm a big fan of the 6x45. Have you ever looked into it?

Many shooters opt for the factory 6.5s and 6.8s. But the 6x45 (6mm-223 Remington) shares many of the .300 BLK's merits (requires only a barrel change and is actually easier to produce). Since I "produce" an unlimited supply of brass, I figured why not and haven't regretted adding it to my list of things to do on rainy days.

I believe the 6x45 is a wildcat at the moment, although rumors of Black Hills making it in the future have been circulating for years. They actually were producing it in 2010/11, but their website no longer lists it. I consider the 6x45 to be a legitimate cartridge for medium game, albeit marginal beyond 250. I load up to 80 grains, but read of others loading up to 85, and still within the confines of most factory magazines. Others even load it subsonic (with modified mags).

I have no personal experience with the 6x45 in SBR-length barrels though. There are those who do and brag about it online. Knowing what I do know about the cartridge, I'd assume it would function in an SBR similarly to .223 and 5.56 using like powder charges and bullet weights. It does in carbines and rifles.

fabsroman · Jun 25, 2016

GUNSnROTORS said:
I'm a big fan of the 6x45. Have you ever looked into it?

Many shooters opt for the factory 6.5s and 6.8s. But the 6x45 (6mm-223 Remington) shares many of the .300 BLK's merits (requires only a barrel change and is actually easier to produce). Since I "produce" an unlimited supply of brass, I figured why not and haven't regretted adding it to my list of things to do on rainy days.

I believe the 6x45 is a wildcat at the moment, although rumors of Black Hills making it in the future have been circulating for years. They actually were producing it in 2010/11, but their website no longer lists it. I consider the 6x45 to be a legitimate cartridge for medium game, albeit marginal beyond 250. I load up to 80 grains, but read of others loading up to 85, and still within the confines of most factory magazines. Others even load it subsonic (with modified mags).

I have no personal experience with the 6x45 in SBR-length barrels though. There are those who do and brag about it online. Knowing what I do know about the cartridge, I'd assume it would function in an SBR similarly to .223 and 5.56 using like powder charges and bullet weights. It does in carbines and rifles.

I was reading about the ballistic difference between .300 BLK and 6.8 SPC, and it turned out that the 6.8 SPC had more velocity out of the barrel and that both cartridges were pretty good for an SBR because the bore size allows the powder to be burned up really early in the barrel's length. Additional bore size allows for more gas volume in a shorter barrel length.

So, the 6x45 would work better in a shorter barrel than .223, but not as well as .300 BLK or 6.8 SPC. The 6x45 would need a longer barrel than either of those cartridges to get all it could out of the powder charge. Now, exactly where that length is, who knows. I know that 5.56 isn't optimal for an SBR, but I am going to build one anyway because of the availability of ammo.

The 6x45 has peaked my interest though. Maybe that is what I will make out of this new Wilson Combat lower, but in HBAR and with a longer barrel. Might not SBR it.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/64...-hbar-contour-1-in-8-twist-20-stainless-steel

http://www.shop.blackholeweaponry.com/6x45-caliber-22-length-AR15-6x45-22.htm

A quick google search did not turn up more barrels, but I am sure people would make customs for me. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

GUNSnROTORS · Jun 26, 2016

I went with BHW for a custom and have no complaints. If you get one made by them (in any caliber), lots of options for tricking them out.

New or Use an existing lower

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