Restoring an 1884 Springfield Trapdoor - Hooligan Style...

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  • j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    Folks who follow our Hooligan Shoot threads already know an original Springfield 1884 Trapdoor appeared yesterday. Since it was built in 1892 "technically" it's an antique and not C&R. But since we don't have a BPRC section, this is the best place to start.

    We Hooligans enjoy shooting many modern firearms. And we have a passion for BP shooting like flintlocks, cap locks and BP cartridge guns. Learning about firearm history is great!

    This trapdoor was a GB auction win. With eyes wide open I knew it needed work. And I could tell it was the right one to become my winter project. When it arrived last Saturday, the temptation to range test it with some BP loads yesterday... well - twist my arm, right?... :innocent0 Of course I thoroughly inspected the gun, lubed the critical areas cleaned the bore - which is now mirror bright with good rifling. :) After a few fired rounds yesterday we knew we had a very promising BPCR rifle. Great fun!

    Any time we shoot BP, cleaning is mandatory. Since this gun needed a deep cleaning it was completely disassembled and tended to on my bench.

    First steps:
    • Remember - the rifle is 127 years old -> Do No Harm!
    • Total disassembly - not really difficult to do.
    • The stock was scrubbed with lacquer thinner and rags - several times.
    • The metal was cleaned with Hoppe's #9 or lacquer thinner using 4-0 steel wool.
    • Once cleaned, it's enjoying soaking up another BLO finish like it originally had.
    There's a big difference between cleaning/restoring and refinishing. This rifle is not a collectable, it's a shooter. Cleaning it appropriately is the right thing to do for it IMHO.

    Next step for this gun is to replace the "home-made" front sight blade it came with. It's loose and makes windage adjustments impossible. I'll either buy or make a new blade. That's part of the project.

    Please let me know your thoughts! Comments and ideas on restoring this great rifle are welcome!

    Thanks

    j8064
     

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    Jul 1, 2012
    5,712
    As a general PSA, I'd never recommend using any grade of steel wool on blued (or browned, or parkerized) parts
    (in this case there probably weren't any worries about this, due to lack of finish and the evaluation that deemed it non-collectible).
    Try the Frontier 45 pads and/or nylon brush instead. Always start out with the least invasive and abrasive methods.
    Even old pantyhose can work pretty good (on the gun, not wearing them while doing the cleaning - but to each their own).
    Try breaking a piece of Plexiglas and using the sharp edge to remove crusty flakes (or a hardwood chopstick, etc)
    after soaking the rusty part in Kroil or other penetrating oil.
    Kerosene works pretty good too and won't hurt bluing. It just smells.

    Any light corrosion that 000 will remove, the more gentle methods that won't damage bluing will remove too.
    If I absolutely had to use 0000 on metal, I'd use a liberal dose of good gun oil (G96, etc), vice Hoppes, and not lacquer thinner or mineral spirits.

    Again, this may not be applicable to this rifle but it's something to keep in mind for other projects.

    I'm sure the ole girl appreciates all the spa care :)
     

    noddaz

    bonehead
    Jan 9, 2014
    529
    Arnold
    Not a thread jack!

    But a question.
    What would be an acceptable metal refinish for a rifle of this type that was not just going to sit on display or in a safe? Or is there no acceptable metal finish other than un-restored or refinished as it was new?
     

    mawkie

    C&R Whisperer
    Sep 28, 2007
    4,338
    Catonsville
    Thanks for posting, nice to see a project of interest! Looking forward to the next installment.
    I picked up a French Mle 1914 Remington Rolling Block at auction on Monday and expect it'll be in the same category. Listed as inoperable by the auction house, it scared most everyone away, letting me grab it for less than two Franklins. A perennial item on my bucket list no more!
     

    swamplynx

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 28, 2014
    678
    DC
    Outstanding information. Thank you! I was gifted a Springfield 1873 that is in excellent condition but with this guide I plan on cleaning it up further.

    Perhaps a silly question... Am I good with off the shelf .45-70? Any chamber pressure concerns I need to worry about?
     

    teratos

    My hair is amazing
    MDS Supporter
    Patriot Picket
    Jan 22, 2009
    59,775
    Bel Air
    Outstanding information. Thank you! I was gifted a Springfield 1873 that is in excellent condition but with this guide I plan on cleaning it up further.

    Perhaps a silly question... Am I good with off the shelf .45-70? Any chamber pressure concerns I need to worry about?

    I was just given a Springfield 1873 today! Sadly it was neglected and there is surface rust. Soaking in Kroil now. Thanks for posting cleaning suggestions!!!
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    As you can imagine I've been learning a ton about Springfield 1873-1889 trapdoors lately. They are fascinating 19th Century rifles and I really appreciate your input. :thumbsup:

    Basic and thorough cleaning is done. Next step is to make the rifle a shooter. Below is the text of an email with pics and a YouTube link I sent to my closest Hooligan friends/mentors. No reason not to share it with the MDS braintrust! :thumbsup:

    Getting a workable front sight on the new trapdoor is my first priority. The current blade insert is clearly not original. I looks like someone’s attempt to adjust the POI down closer to 100 yard range vs. the original 200 yard factory sight inserts that were calibrated for the Buffington rear sights.

    The current sight blade is loose in the base so holding aim isn’t possible until that’s remedied. As I see it I have three paths:
    • Order an original or repro front sight insert ($20/$40 – but would be too short for 100 yard shooting). I may still get one to have on hand for the rifle.
    • Make an insert myself. Can be done – just takes time, material, correct tools and patience.
    • Try to find a source for taller sight inserts. Unfortunately, as you’ll see in the video below (confirmed by web searches), the best source for those passed away.

    I found this video on installing a blade insert on the same rifle model I have. It’s very informative. It gets into the weeds with dialog, but it covers good info - especially the math involved in measuring and setting up sights. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hk_ZMBrhfM8

    Looks like I have another “project problem” to solve. And I’m wide open to suggestions, recommendations and input…

    :shrug::shrug:

    .
     

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    mawkie

    C&R Whisperer
    Sep 28, 2007
    4,338
    Catonsville
    I know S&S has a $15 blank sight blade that's extra tall so you can configure it to whatever you need.
    I also immediately thought of what the Swiss do on K31s and Vetterlis, using a clamp-on front sight...
     

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    mawkie

    C&R Whisperer
    Sep 28, 2007
    4,338
    Catonsville

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    File down an old copper penny and blacken it for your front sight. A dime may also be exactly the right width for the dovetail. Once you get it to shape and it fits snugly, wave a candle over the pinning so you can drill it for the pin or use a scribe to get your marks so it can be drilled accurately. Bedding it in a tiny sliver of lead makes it nice and solid.
    S and S sell blanks for Krag rifles and more than likely has them for TD rifles noted already above. They're pricey though last time I looked I think they were 8-10 bucks a piece.

    I make sight blades to fit specific rifles sometimes out of sheet steel. The problem with that though it's time consuming and the closet gauge of sheet steel is just thicker than the common base width on 03 and Krag rifles. The good part however is that the width approximates the USMC sight for the 03 rifles and you can undercut them/perfectly square the top if you like to eliminate glare or make them taller/shorter for your needs.
     

    buellsfurn

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 1, 2015
    5,951
    southern end of Maryland
    File down an old copper penny and blacken it for your front sight. A dime may also be exactly the right width for the dovetail. Once you get it to shape and it fits snugly, wave a candle over the pinning so you can drill it for the pin or use a scribe to get your marks so it can be drilled accurately. Bedding it in a tiny sliver of lead makes it nice and solid.
    S and S sell blanks for Krag rifles and more than likely has them for TD rifles noted already above. They're pricey though last time I looked I think they were 8-10 bucks a piece.

    I make sight blades to fit specific rifles sometimes out of sheet steel. The problem with that though it's time consuming and the closet gauge of sheet steel is just thicker than the common base width on 03 and Krag rifles. The good part however is that the width approximates the USMC sight for the 03 rifles and you can undercut them/perfectly square the top if you like to eliminate glare or make them taller/shorter for your needs.

    my head is trying to explode waving a candle is this done so that you get a black soot so that your mark for is visible
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    Your input is much appreciated. :thumbsup: I ordered one of the tall sight blades from S&S. That will be easier than making one from scratch. I can file it to the height needed for 100 yards. In the meantime I'll add some shim material to tighten the existing blade in the base. Having it flop from side to side ain't gonna work... ;)
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,282
    HoCo
    Think about leaving it somewhat tall. Depends on what you want to do.
    I took my Finn Mosin and put JB weld to make it taller then filed it down flat. If I ever want to sell it, I just break it off.
    I have it adjusted for hitting POA at 100 yards with my reloads but elevation is at 300meters. If I use surplus Russian, I think its at 200.

    I have been aiming low putting a 2nd target below another on my Trapdoor and it has really annoyed me. Last time out I just shot at steel and aimed at the groin of the torso target.

    I'm using a formula of Unique Pistol Powder and 400+grain lead cast. I can't remember what we used (Friend of mine let me do it on his press cause I did not have the dies)

    I hate to change the blade. Maybe I'll have my son 3D print an attachment to bump the front sight taller.
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    After looking back at the posts here is my 2 cents on a couple of questions asked:

    But a question.
    What would be an acceptable metal refinish for a rifle of this type that was not just going to sit on display or in a safe? Or is there no acceptable metal finish other than un-restored or refinished as it was new?

    IMHO it depends on the rifle, it's condition, value as a collectable, intended use etc. Personally I don't strip metal and refinish my old rifle restoration projects. But if rust spots and years of neglect on metal are evident and when most of the original original finish remains, I'll touch up the spots with cold blue.

    Outstanding information. Thank you! I was gifted a Springfield 1873 that is in excellent condition but with this guide I plan on cleaning it up further.

    Perhaps a silly question... Am I good with off the shelf .45-70? Any chamber pressure concerns I need to worry about?

    YES! That's something to worry about! These rifles were built to shoot period-correct cartridges loaded with black powder! Shooting modern high pressure smokeless powder ammo in them will likely get you a face full of scrap metal!

    :nono::nono:
     

    j8064

    Garrett Co Hooligan #1
    Feb 23, 2008
    11,635
    Deep Creek
    A Little Buffington Sight Cleanup...

    The Buffington rear sight on the later model trapdoors is really interesting. There are several styles. Some had worm/gear knobs to adjust the ladder. Others had a locking knob with the ladder position being adjusted by hand. The one on this rifle is the latter and appears original. And, as expected, it also needed a good cleaning. The ladder insert was frozen in the staff channel and probably hadn't been moved in umpteen years.

    The top knob on the staff locks the ladder in position on the staff for elevation adjustment. The front knob on the base adjusts windage by pivoting the base side-to-side in an arc. It's a cool setup.

    The remedy:
    I took the sight off the barrel - two screws = easy peasy. Then I wet the assembly with liquid wrench and let it soak for 24 hours. After that a few gentle taps on the bottom of the ladder with a brass punch freed it. Once I got it moving, cleaning the channel with an old toothbrush and Hoppes was simple. With a little CLP lube on it I'm back in business.

    Much to learn about these old trapdoors. Oh, and please excuse a few beagle hairs on my cleaning mat in the pics. That's what happens at my house...:innocent0

    :)
     

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    swamplynx

    Active Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 28, 2014
    678
    DC
    YES! That's something to worry about! These rifles were built to shoot period-correct cartridges loaded with black powder! Shooting modern high pressure smokeless powder ammo in them will likely get you a face full of scrap metal!

    :nono::nono:

    Suggestions on a COTS BP cartridge? Or a smokeless equivalent?

    I have some Horndadys right now I think made for Marlin levers, that I do NOT think I’ll be firing out of the 1873.
     

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