Longer blades for home defense?

lkenefic · Dec 28, 2016

Hello everyone. I'm starting this discussion here because of a different thread where people were talking about alternatives to firearms for home defense. One suggestion was actually a sword... referencing the JHU student that used a katana to thwart a robbery. The student was not charged even though the would be robber succumbed to his injuries. I don't want to talk about the legalities, etc... but was more interested in a discussion of sword metal, manufacturers, blade lengths, and that sort of thing.

In my rumblings around the Internet, I've found the best steel for a blade longer than about 20 inches or so seems to be 1060... 1095 is too brittle in blades that long and 1045, while pliable... is prone to discoloration and won't hold an edge as well. There are several types of tool steel that are also discussed... but these blades appear to be more expensive.

It's unclear to me, at this point, which blades this long are just for decoration, and which can actually be used for fighting.

Mr. Ed · Dec 28, 2016

I'm no expert in martial arts, but I have one of these handy by the door: Wakasashi

It's a bit shorter than a katana, so it should be easier to wield in close quarters. I have several other Cold Steel edged implements, and I find them to be well made, extremely sharp, and cool.

SRD · Dec 28, 2016

Always been fond of the Scottish Claymore,that's all I have to offer.

alucard0822 · Dec 28, 2016

Have 2 "functional" swords, a single hand longsword and a katana, both are 5160, Both held up well, in a short class, and a lot of stupidity around the house, seems a good flexible and durable steel for the money. Wouldn't hesitate to grab one if needed, have enough room in most of the house to use either, but neither will bump the AK or pistols and flashlights from bedside duty.

Glaron · Dec 28, 2016

If I had a sword? Hand and a half bastard sword, high carbon steel. Sharpened, polished.

Stainless steel is decorative.

WeaponsCollector · Dec 28, 2016

Whatever you decide to use, NEVER rely on a cheap, fake, decorative stainless steel sword.
These are usually very affordable, made in China, and are not full tang. Some sellers at gun shows have tables full of them.
Basically the thin crappy stainless steel blades are glued to the top of the handle and they will easily bend and break.
Here's the perfect example, guy stabbed himself on live TV.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kFgeZtkAb8

You can find good quality swords from China, but they won't be stainless and are going to cost more (often a LOT more) than $100.
Quality swords will cost you some money but they are very much worth it.
They will have thicker steel towards the handle and a full tang that goes all the way through the handle.
Cold Steel knives and swords are known for being very strong and functional, and some models are pretty affordable.
They're one of my favorite companies.

smokey · Dec 28, 2016

I'd opt for something specifically designed to thrust in tight quarters... so essentially a gladius.
https://www.reliks.com/functional-european-swords/roman-gladius-pompeii/

Roneut · Dec 28, 2016

Anything you want to keep for this purpose should be of the shorter, one-handed, variety unless you live in a mansion with vaulted ceilings. In the JHU case, while the student was wielding a full length katana, he was outside in the back yard. An overhead swing will strike the ceiling in most modern American homes. Feudal Japanese people understood the importance of keeping indoor weapons manageable so the wakisashi was preferred in these situations, as well as the Makura Yari or "pillow spear," which were about 3-4 feet long and kept by the bedside. And before anyone pulls that oft repeated myth "the cops will think you're a nut job" I actually know people who used both these weapons to successfully fend off home invaders, and neither faced legal consequences despite wounding the intruder. If you like more Western items, a well-made cutlass would also work, as they were used in close quarters on ships and the guard can be used to punch.

Doitsouthstyle · Dec 28, 2016

Always an option and semi related

lkenefic · Dec 28, 2016

Funny you mention the cutlass. That's the blade I was looking at, but a bit beefier in the blade. I'll see if I can find it again. It looked more like a drop point Bowie configuration.

davsco · Dec 28, 2016

the heck with anything with a blade on it for HD, that's what guns are for.

Inigoes · Dec 28, 2016

M1903 bayonet attached to a trench gun.

SRD · Dec 28, 2016

Inigoes said:
M1903 bayonet attached to a trench gun.

91/30,so you can stop them at the mailbox..

rob · Dec 28, 2016

Blades require at least as much training as a gun to be effective in self defense, probably a lot more. With a sword, you have a slight distance advantage over an unarmed opponent, plus fear factor.

If you are untrained? You get 1 wild swing with the sword. If you miss, or merely hit with the blade slightly twisted, you are now at a disadvantage.

Rob.

Jimbob2.0 · Dec 28, 2016

Biggest concern indoors is having enough room to maneuver. A Katana or one of its shorter relatives can be devastating, even the non folded ones made out of decent steel (not the cheap ones you see at gunshows). I have a practice Katana that I put an edge on that makes short, clean slices with almost no effort. Its under my bed.

But swords take training. I have some fencing training, some martial arts training and am very comfortable with most blades and even I wouldn't want to go head to head in a cramped hallway.

For CQB blade fights which you are likely to encounter in the home environment, you are better off with a short heavy Machete or a small tomahawk. You get the same intimidation but can make quick strikes with fast recovery.

Not elegant, but in a pinch something like

Can be devastating.

smokey · Dec 28, 2016

Jimbob2.0 said:
Biggest concern indoors is having enough room to maneuver. A Katana or one of its shorter relatives can be devastating, even the non folded ones made out of decent steel (not the cheap ones you see at gunshows). I have a practice Katana that I put an edge on that makes short, clean slices with almost no effort. Its under my bed.

But swords take training. I have some fencing training, some martial arts training and am very comfortable with most blades and even I wouldn't want to go head to head in a cramped hallway.

For CQB blade fights which you are likely to encounter in the home environment, you are better off with a short heavy Machete or a small tomahawk. You get the same intimidation but can make quick strikes with fast recovery.

Not elegant, but in a pinch something like

Can be devastating.

This sword nerd seems to think somewhat like me. I don't think slashes would be a very desirable attack in close quarters. In contrast, repeated thrusts allow you to still maintain a very good defense with your non-dominant side, gives you fast recovery, and is more likely to penetrate sufficiently to reach vitals once bones are considered.

cb51 · Dec 28, 2016

smokey0118 said:
I'd opt for something specifically designed to thrust in tight quarters... so essentially a gladius.
https://www.reliks.com/functional-european-swords/roman-gladius-pompeii/

THIS^^^^^^

If for some crazy reason I could not have a gun for home defense, I'd probably use the sharpened 12 inch Ontario machete a knife making friend made for me many years ago. Light, fast handling, and if the cops take it, I'm not out a lot of money.

joppaj · Dec 29, 2016

If we're being silly:

http://www.coldsteel.com/boar-spear.html

Cut the handle down some and add some grip tape. Get as stabby as you want.

If we're being a little more practical, something like this as a starting point:

http://www.bladehq.com/item--Boker-A-F-Combat-Fighting-Knife--49506

If you just want gruesome:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Double-Sided-Drywall-Saw/1053309

You're not getting in to a knife fight, your opponent isn't wearing armor and you've likely already made poor choices. If you're down to an edged weapon in the tight confines of a home get a long, sharp blade and be ready to stab until they stop attacking.

Bolts Rock · Dec 29, 2016

lkenefic said:
1095 is too brittle in blades that long

I call internet ******** on this one. 1095 is one of the commoner steels user for monosteel swords. I've owned several Viking broadswords and Crusader longswords over the decades and used them in re-enactment full contact fighting where they take a severe beating, never broke one made of 1095.

Worry less about the steel used and find a competent bladesmith and let him decide what steel to use or buy from a known maker. For indoor use a wakizashi, gladius, cutlass or machete would do just fine. So would a warhammer or a tomahawk or a Viking handaxe or a Viking seax.

Contact Sam Salvati on here, he makes nice blades. Like this one with 15" of nasty sharp blade and a heavy chopping back.

Inigoes · Dec 29, 2016

SRD said:
91/30,so you can stop them at the mailbox..

The 91/30 barrel is too long, but use M44 and you are in business.

The trench gun with m1903, gives you 5 rounds slam fire fast , and a 16 inch bayonet when someone is charging you.

The m44 gives you 1 round though, being a bolt action. then bayonet comes into play.

Longer blades for home defense?

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Ultimate Member

This IS my Happy Face

R.I.P.

For great Justice

Camp pureblood 13R

EXTREME GUN OWNER

2A TEACHER

Active Member

Active Member

Attachments

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Head'n for the hills

R.I.P.

DINO Extraordinaire

Ultimate Member

2A TEACHER

Active Member

Sheepdog

Living in Free America!

Attachments

Head'n for the hills

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics