Deal on Polymer80 compact.

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  • BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Holy crap thank you. I looked through the site a couple of times and all over the web.

    Will be ordering on friday. Thanks again.

    No prob, glad to be of assistance. :thumbsup:
     

    swierczekml

    Active Member
    Apr 19, 2011
    112
    A plethora of polymer plinkers

    My G19 arrived the other day and I just finished it. I’m glad other people had no problems assembling theirs, because mine was a bit of a bear. To start off, the 3mm twist drill provided in the kit was bent! How could they send a bent drill bit? How does it become bent in the first place? So much for quality assurance. Of course, I didn’t have any metric bits on hand, so I just went with a number bit that was close enough (I think it was a #31). The milling and drilling went smoothly but when it came time to assemble the rear metal guide rails I couldn’t get the holes to line up (and I’m sure I drilled them accurately). After doing some filing and fitting, I finally got the pins in, but then when it came time to install the (Lone Wolf) slide it just would not go over the rear rails smoothly. In fact, when I finally got it on, it locked up tight and I couldn't remove it without disassembling the slide. After several rounds of on and off, back and forth, and quite some time with a diamond file I managed to trim and adjust the rear rails sufficiently to allow the slide to fit and operate smoothly. Luckily, having built an 80% 1911 I’m used to lots of hand fitting. Bottom line is it’s now assembled and operating well. I do like the improved grips on the 19 as compared with the 17 (skateboard tape on the 17 helped somewhat) and the metal rear rails are an improvement (provided they can improve the variable fit quality). That being said, I have hundreds (if not thousands) of rounds through my 17 with no issues at all, so I wonder if the ones that failed had dimensional problems. There definitely appears to be some variability in production tolerances...
     

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    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Brownells sent a textured frame, I'll leave it in my mom's hands as to how she wants to proceed - wait for a ready-mod, or go ahead with the textured.

    I have to say, maybe I've just been lucky with the 19 frames (since I wasn't so lucky with the 17's) - but I've had very little issues with them. Only thing outside of the directions I've done is beveled one side of the pins for the locking block/rear rail, and all the ones I've done (or assisted with) have been running smoothly so far. Figure between the ones I've done/assisted with, they collectively have about 2400 rounds downrange with very few and far between malfunctions.

    I'll take it as a gift.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    So we don the kevlar cups one day soon? :innocent0

    Only if you plan on breaking into their place... :innocent0

    I made the mistake of showing her the Lone Wolf catalog - could see those wheels turning, had to remind her - there's plenty of options, but it'll add up quick.
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,501
    AA Co
    Only if you plan on breaking into their place... :innocent0

    I made the mistake of showing her the Lone Wolf catalog - could see those wheels turning, had to remind her - there's plenty of options, but it'll add up quick.
    Oh, I KNOW better! :lol2:

    and you should too... don't you dare show her the ZEV catalog... :nono:
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    Oh, I KNOW better! :lol2:

    and you should too... don't you dare show her the ZEV catalog... :nono:

    Thankfully I don't have one handy.

    She may have the disposable income to be able to indulge some, I definitely don't. Between the hernia repair bills and Snap-On, I'm nearly tapped out...
     

    highli99

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2015
    2,551
    West Side
    I spent the evening assembling and installIng a new slide. Sadly I can't pull the slide back no matter how hard I pull. I double checked simple stuff from earlier in this thread but I'll need to take everything apart and put it back together.

    The blank slide goes back ok on the rails with a little more friction than I'd prefer.

    I'm going to try again tomorrow but may post some pics for advice if that doesn't work.
     

    cantstop

    Pentultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 10, 2012
    8,158
    MD
    I spent the evening assembling and installIng a new slide. Sadly I can't pull the slide back no matter how hard I pull. I double checked simple stuff from earlier in this thread but I'll need to take everything apart and put it back together.

    The blank slide goes back ok on the rails with a little more friction than I'd prefer.

    I'm going to try again tomorrow but may post some pics for advice if that doesn't work.

    Make sure your trigger is installed properly. Pretty hard not to, but just verify that before proceeding.

    Try this: Remove the recoil spring and barrel from your slide. Separately pull the trigger on the lower to get the trigger disconnector assy lowered. Now put a whole bunch of grease (I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease, but for now any wheel bearing or gun grease will do) on the lower slide rails and in the upper slide channels. Put a dab on the slide safety too.

    Now put the slide back on the lower (without the barrel) and work it a few hundred times. Do 20 to 30 reps of 10 each. This will deburr the slide rails and work in the new slide at the same time. After you are done this, the slide should be moving freely and ready to go. Take the slide off and use paper towels and a rag to wipe off all the grease you put on along with the fine metal bits embedded in the grease.

    Finally, lube it. Put a small amount of grease on the rails and a dab on the back of the slide channels. Dab a bit on the top of the barrel and normal grease points. Put the barrel and spring back on the slide and put it on the lower. Rack it 10 times or so, remove it and spray some Ballistol on the slide channels, slide rails, trigger assy, trigger pin, trigger bar, etc. Put the slide back on, rack it and work the trigger about 10 times.

    Pop the slide back off for the last time and wipe off the excess oil. You should be good to go. While you're at it, do trigger safety and reset checks. Verify the firing pin moves freely when slide safety plunger is depressed. Have fun at the range.

    You might want to check out the Glock armorers manual over at stevespages (be kind, take only what you need).

    Glock armorers manual 2009 (44 MBytes): www.stevespages.com/pdf/glock_2009_armorers_manual.pdf
    Steves Pages manuals page: http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm
     

    highli99

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2015
    2,551
    West Side
    Make sure your trigger is installed properly. Pretty hard not to, but just verify that before proceeding.

    Try this: Remove the recoil spring and barrel from your slide. Separately pull the trigger on the lower to get the trigger disconnector assy lowered. Now put a whole bunch of grease (I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease, but for now any wheel bearing or gun grease will do) on the lower slide rails and in the upper slide channels. Put a dab on the slide safety too.

    Now put the slide back on the lower (without the barrel) and work it a few hundred times. Do 20 to 30 reps of 10 each. This will deburr the slide rails and work in the new slide at the same time. After you are done this, the slide should be moving freely and ready to go. Take the slide off and use paper towels and a rag to wipe off all the grease you put on along with the fine metal bits embedded in the grease.

    Finally, lube it. Put a small amount of grease on the rails and a dab on the back of the slide channels. Dab a bit on the top of the barrel and normal grease points. Put the barrel and spring back on the slide. Rack it 10 times or so, remove it and spray some Ballistol on the slide channels, slide rails, trigger assy, trigger pin, trigger bar, etc. Put the slide back on, rack it and work the trigger about 10 times.

    Pop the slide back off for the last time and wipe off the excess oil. You should be good to go. While your at it, do trigger safety and reset checks. Verify the firing pin moves freely when slide safety plunger is depressed. Have fun at the range.

    You might want to check out the Glock armorers manual over at stevespages (be kind, take only what you need).

    Glock armorers manual 2009: www.stevespages.com/pdf/glock_2009_armorers_manual.pdf
    Steves Pages manuals page: http://www.stevespages.com/page7b.htm

    Wow thank you I will give this a try
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,501
    AA Co
    I would also suggest checking the rail alignment with a good straight edge (like a steel rule) and be sure the rails are not cocked (angled) or misaligned. They should be parallel to the frame top surface, there should be plenty of clearance between the slide and the frame.

    A pair of calipers will allow you to measure the rail widths versus the slide and see if there is anything tweaked there (like the rails are too wide or too thick relative to the slide groove dimensions.
     

    highli99

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2015
    2,551
    West Side
    So after some working I can now pull the slide all the way back, but it won't go back into battery unless I really push it. The other really weird thing is that when I pull it back something is depressing the spring on the dissasembly bar and the dang thing keeps falling out. Is the recoil spring hitting it?
     

    cantstop

    Pentultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 10, 2012
    8,158
    MD
    So after some working I can now pull the slide all the way back, but it won't go back into battery unless I really push it. The other really weird thing is that when I pull it back something is depressing the spring on the dissasembly bar and the dang thing keeps falling out. Is the recoil spring hitting it?

    I am assuming you are talking about the slide lock. The slide lock should be under quite a bit of pressure from the slide lock spring. The spring should sit in the notch in the slide lock. The slide lock should be oriented with the groove at the top facing toward the magazine.

    There may be plastic shavings in the slot preventing the slide lock spring from working properly.
     
    Last edited:

    BUFF7MM

    ☠Buff➐㎣☠
    Mar 4, 2009
    13,576
    Garrett County
    So after some working I can now pull the slide all the way back, but it won't go back into battery unless I really push it. The other really weird thing is that when I pull it back something is depressing the spring on the dissasembly bar and the dang thing keeps falling out. Is the recoil spring hitting it?

    Sounds like you and I have the same problem, let me know if you find a solution.
    I haven't had time to fool with mine and probably won't get to it for quite some time.
    Hopefully it's a simple fix.:thumbsup:


    I'm not real pleased with how mine is acting after assembly, pulling the slide to the rear was impossible at first but then when it finally moved rearward it would spit out the slide stop. Seems the lock spring isn't seating all the way down in the frame. Now the slide won't go forward unless you push it forward, hopefully it just needs loosen up as it wears some.
     

    cantstop

    Pentultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 10, 2012
    8,158
    MD
    The slide lock spring is different on the Glock 17 vs 19 vs 26. Your spring should be the one for a compact (19).

    Fig 80 in the 2009 Glock Armorers' manual shows the differences.
     

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