SW!911 government threaded barrel: go ramped or unramped?
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alucard0822
For great Justice
A non ramped could be "drop in" ramped, not so much. Really only a benefit if you are running other calibers. Also "drop in" really isn't, at minimum you need a fitted bushing for it to shoot worth a crap. Oversized barrel properly fitted can always end up just right, a "drop-in" will be loose to some degree, or it will be tight enough you have to fit it anyway, or it can wear or damage something important.
personally I'm a fan of Jarvis, can get a barrel to fit anything, decent price, great quality, and while consistently oversized for fitting it isn't so ridiculously oversized that you have to take a ton of metal off. Go stainless with a new stainless bushing to fit, and you won't have to deal with refinishing. This is a decent overview article on how you would fit it and what tools you need
http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/Barrel-Fitting-the-1911-Auto/detail.htm?lid=10303
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Your reply makes sense. So, then, are there any barrel kits specifically made for the SW1911 government model?
Thanks.
Any drop in barrel will be inferior to a properly fitted barrel. That said, it depends on what you want out of your 1911. So what do you want out of your 1911?
1. A GI 1911 that will hold a 4" group at 25 yards (most reliable) $
2. A match grade 1911 that will hold a 1/2" group at 25 yards but you can feel the grit in the action after a few hundred rounds and will require tools to disassemble. $$
3. A match grade 1911 that's very reliable (think Wilson Combat, Nighthawk, Ed Brown prices and performance) $$$$$
4. An heirloom 1911 that has all the features you want, is engraved with your name and has a presentation box to hand down to your children? (I would put a $ amount but if you have to ask.........)
Not sure how this addresses his threaded barrel suppressor concern?
Depends on how much he wants to spend and what he wants out of his pistol. Is he looking for a match grade full custom suppressed gun like Nighthawk offers? Or does he just want it to be quiet and hit the target?
Thanks for replies. I'd like it to be quiet and have similar accuracy as the standard stock SW1911 government .45 cal. would have - generally speaking. I'd like to hit the black circle, but doesn't have to perfect (or match grade). Hope I'm not asking for too much, just wanted to do a barrel swap to threaded without much trouble. Naturally, I wouldn't want to damage the slide or other parts on the SW1911.
I would pick a good name brand, semi fitted barrel. It's a barrel that will require some fitting by a smith (or you if you're handy) before dropping in. Some good names are Storm Lake as you mentioned, Wilson Combat, Bar Sto, and I think AAC made a short run of barrels to mount suppresors (not sure if they made a 1911 barrel).
Consult the manufacturer of your supressor if there's any recommendations they have as far as barrels go. They'll have a larger sample size than most to keep an eye on trends of quality and laco thereof.
Regarding ramped vs non ramped, typically ramped barrels are only used on frames other than steel and/or sub caliber (IE non .45) variants. I would go non ramped and get an extra box of ammo.
If you do choose the do it yourself route, Evolution Gun Works offers pre fit bushings to order. You measure the ID of your slide and the OD of your barrel and send them the measurements and they make a bushing to your spec. Should be easy peasy lemon squeezy. Also, if you do need to massage the fit, file the bushing not the barrel.
Have fun.
Consult the manufacturer of your supressor if there's any recommendations they have as far as barrels go. They'll have a larger sample size than most to keep an eye on trends of quality and laco thereof.
Regarding ramped vs non ramped, typically ramped barrels are only used on frames other than steel and/or sub caliber (IE non .45) variants. I would go non ramped and get an extra box of ammo.
If you do choose the do it yourself route, Evolution Gun Works offers pre fit bushings to order. You measure the ID of your slide and the OD of your barrel and send them the measurements and they make a bushing to your spec. Should be easy peasy lemon squeezy. Also, if you do need to massage the fit, file the bushing not the barrel.
Have fun.
Lots for consideration here. Good advise. I had dropped the ramped idea. Thanks mopar92.
Send John Carduner a message. He's a real 1911 gunsmith expert (and IP here) who can answer your questions with real authority and experience.
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=61215
photoracer
Competition Shooter
I would suggested non-ramped for say .45 and .40 although as mentioned most sub caliber 1911s are ramped. Especially in 9x19mm, 9x23mm or 38 Super because I think those 3 calibers feed much better into a ramped barrel. My STI, Bul, and Dan Wesson certainly do.
As to these Storm Lake 1911 barrels, is one of these better to use than the other : Stainless or Black Isonite? My existing factory barrel is stainless. I thought Chad (Clandestine) said he prefers the black - I presume for operation, but it wouldn't look too good with a factory stainless SW1911.
For matching stainless. For use Isonite is better, longer lasting, easier to clean, and more resistant to wear, but its a much harder surface finish to cut through when fitting. But the only part that will be visible when the suppressor is mounted will be the portion of the barrel visible through the ejection port.
I take it. then, that if it were you, you'd go with Isonite rather than the stainless, based on your explanation. Will Isonite resting on stainless create any metal corrosion problems of any consequence?
Thanks!
Short term no, long term I doubt it. Just keep it lubed and clean and inspect every once in a while.
clandestine
AR-15 Savant
You will likely have to play with springs with a suppressed 1911. There is a fine balance of lockup, bushing tolerances, and slide fit that can all play into factors of how well the gun runs with a can attached.
Most "Drop In" still require fitting. Improper fitting and a can wreck the barrel and slide with suppressed use. I would not get ANY treated barrel (Melonite and so on) because if things need to be fit/polished, or filed, it will remove the primary purpose of the finish (wear reistance). Get coating AFTER things are fit and run reliably.
Remember, not all Gunsmiths are true masters of any firearm, or the 1911. Not all Masters of the 1911 deal with or understand the effect suppressors have and how to not figure it out by using you as the guineau pig.
If you have a gun that locks up like a bank vault without a can, it does not always work out for a suppressed platform.
Trikshot and Scotts are fantasic 1911 smiths. If you need help they should be able to assist.
Most "Drop In" still require fitting. Improper fitting and a can wreck the barrel and slide with suppressed use. I would not get ANY treated barrel (Melonite and so on) because if things need to be fit/polished, or filed, it will remove the primary purpose of the finish (wear reistance). Get coating AFTER things are fit and run reliably.
Remember, not all Gunsmiths are true masters of any firearm, or the 1911. Not all Masters of the 1911 deal with or understand the effect suppressors have and how to not figure it out by using you as the guineau pig.
If you have a gun that locks up like a bank vault without a can, it does not always work out for a suppressed platform.
Trikshot and Scotts are fantasic 1911 smiths. If you need help they should be able to assist.
With all that is involved, with no guarantee of success, it seems as if the final cost would almost warrant a new factory assembled purchase. Storm Lake uses the .578-28 tpi threading on their 1911 barrel. This is one firearm threading that I am lacking, not that I have to have it, but it does help with some suppressor choices. I was hoping that someone that had actually tried a Storm Lake TB (or otherwise) on a SW1911 Gov. .45 would share their experience as to fit. Nonetheless, I really appreciate the comments from Clandestine and Mopar99. Very helpful with decision making.
