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Old October 28th, 2015, 03:33 PM #1
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Would Solder Hold?

I have a VP9 and really like the gun. My only problem with it is the trigger is a little heavy for my tastes and, being left-handed, the slide lock rests directly under my thumb when shooting so the gun doesn't lock back on an empty mag.

I have ordered the "ultra-match" spring set (will drop the trigger from ~6 lbs to ~3 lbs) and a spare right side slide release. my plan is to cut it off at the red dotted line, drill a hole, tap, solder a bolt in the threads, then cut off the back of the bolt to make a new, shorter release.

My question is this: will the solder be strong enough for this application? Is there a better way of accomplishing this? (the spare slide release was only ~$15, so if I don't like it when complete, no big deal.)




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Old October 28th, 2015, 03:37 PM #2
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Solder will hold it if it's drilled and tapped, but solder will also hold the head if you just cut it off and attach it with solder alone.

If this were mine, I use a welder and build a shelf with weld.
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Old October 28th, 2015, 03:44 PM #3
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Quote:
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Solder will hold it if it's drilled and tapped, but solder will also hold the head if you just cut it off and attach it with solder alone.

If this were mine, I use a welder and build a shelf with weld.
Is this something any gunsmith could do? Ideally, I would love it if there was a way to move the original up to my cut line. Would this be possible with welding?

Would JB Weld work? (I've never used it before...) Cut, rough up the surface, apply the weld, let it cure, shape, then paint?
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Old October 30th, 2015, 07:31 PM #4
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Regular Radio Shack solder won't do it; silver solder (applied with a torch) will.
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Old October 31st, 2015, 12:15 AM #5
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I'm not sure I fully understand all the factors involved...but I'll throw in an idea. What if you cut it at your line, then take the cut off piece and cut it again so that all you have left is the "bump" and solder that back on over top of what's left of the lever. It would add a little bit of thickness...don't know if that would be a problem. You should have enough surface area in contact between the two pieces that even regular solder should hold, assuming everything was cleaned and prepped right. Whatever you end up doing, you'll be giving up a good bit of leverage too...not sure if that would be a problem. For $15, it's worth playing around with.
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Old October 31st, 2015, 10:18 AM #6
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[QUOTE=BenL;4047691]I have a VP9 and really like the gun. My only problem with it is the trigger is a little heavy for my tastes and, being left-handed, the slide lock rests directly under my thumb when shooting so the gun doesn't lock back on an empty mag.



I have the same problem. Being left handed is a pain in the @ss sometimes.

Please keep us posted with what you are able to come up with.

I also ordered the spring kit for my VP9 but I honestly wasn't that impressed with it.
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Old October 31st, 2015, 01:21 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenL View Post
Is this something any gunsmith could do? Ideally, I would love it if there was a way to move the original up to my cut line. Would this be possible with welding?

Would JB Weld work? (I've never used it before...) Cut, rough up the surface, apply the weld, let it cure, shape, then paint?
You could cut off the extension, inlet the rear of the lever for the front of the removed extension, then silver solder the extension into the inlet. This would eliminate the shear forces applied when operaring the slide lock. Touchup would only show a very thin line where tge joint was made.

Welding a rough shelf then shaping is appealing also.
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Old October 31st, 2015, 01:25 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenL View Post
I have a VP9 and really like the gun. My only problem with it is the trigger is a little heavy for my tastes and, being left-handed, the slide lock rests directly under my thumb when shooting so the gun doesn't lock back on an empty mag.

I have ordered the "ultra-match" spring set (will drop the trigger from ~6 lbs to ~3 lbs) and a spare right side slide release. my plan is to cut it off at the red dotted line, drill a hole, tap, solder a bolt in the threads, then cut off the back of the bolt to make a new, shorter release.

My question is this: will the solder be strong enough for this application? Is there a better way of accomplishing this? (the spare slide release was only ~$15, so if I don't like it when complete, no big deal.)




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Old October 31st, 2015, 05:47 PM #9
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Use Silver solder also you should use a Lapidary/ Jeweler's torch. Too much heat and you will anneal the part making it soft and weak. Good luck Phipp
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Old October 31st, 2015, 07:47 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phipp13 View Post
Use Silver solder also you should use a Lapidary/ Jeweler's torch. Too much heat and you will anneal the part making it soft and weak. Good luck Phipp
I don't think its possible to silver solder without affecting the hardness a the joint.
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