80% Glock build costs

whistlersmother · Jun 11, 2017

Sticky said:
Pretty work! Well done!!

It's hard to tell from your pic, but one thing to check is the slide stop spring. It is tricky to get it fully inserted into the little groove in the frame. Is the front section of the spring flush or below the frame on either side (fully down into the groove)??

I modified my first one, but since then I have done another and helped someone with theirs and it takes a small punch (3/32" is what I used) and just hand pressure on the spring, just behind the right angle bend where it fits in the frame. Remove the slide stop and lift the rear of the spring up a little with one finger and use the punch to 'press' the spring all the way in. When it's all the way seated, the spring will be flush or below the frame on the front of the spring. If it's not fully inserted, the front of the spring will stick up a little into the barrel channel and the action spring can hang up on it.

I had some question/issue with it. It appears to be properly inserted (gives positive pressure to the slide stop) but it did seem easy to insert just by placing it in.

I will double check it. It isn't giving me priblems at the moment.

All guns are machines and machines need lubrication. I'll check out you post.

Thanks!

These seem easier than the AR15 lowers- but the upper is just as expensive. Ugh.

Sticky · Jun 11, 2017

whistlersmother said:
I had some question/issue with it. It appears to be properly inserted (gives positive pressure to the slide stop) but it did seem easy to insert just by placing it in.

I will double check it. It isn't giving me priblems at the moment.

All guns are machines and machines need lubrication. I'll check out you post.

Thanks!

These seem easier than the AR15 lowers- but the upper is just as expensive. Ugh.

It's not all the way inserted... it will just lay down in there and function, but.... if any part of the spring in front of the slide stop is protruding into the barrel channel at all, the action spring can rub on it... if you work the slide a bunch of times, it will actually start to polish a spot on it... ask me how I know... lol

The first one I did, I cut a little off the spring to get it below the barrel channel. It works fine, but it wasn't the correct way to do it. It takes some effort and you have to be careful not to bend the spring, but a small punch pushing on the front of it, as close to the front 'corner' of it (for lack of a better word, the section where it bends down into the frame slot and inserts) as you can, so you don't bend it, it will actually fit all the way down in the groove and be below the barrel channel.

My first one was as you are describing and that's where I found the issue to be. There is another Poly80 thread around here, some of us posted about this on either this thread or the other one.

That will help you and lubrication. The Glock does not need much, only a few drops of oil are needed.

whistlersmother · Jun 11, 2017

Thanks for all the tips!

Just checked the slide lock spring - it's sticking up and not properly seated. Tackle that in the next few days - not too worried since I've got to find time for the range anyways.

ken792 · Jun 13, 2017

The slide will lap in to the rails eventually. The rails might not be 100% aligned on a fresh build since there is some slop on the hand drilled pin holes.

These Combat Armory slides seem to be pretty cheap at $190 for a stripped slide milled with serrations and for sights, or $270 with an OEM barrel. You can get a takeoff barrel on a forum for $50 or so to drive the cost down further. I added up the cost of the internal parts if you buy straight from Glock and it's $56 for the upper parts except sights and $37 for the lower parts except for the locking block. If you want to do it on the cheap, you could get plastic sights for $7 or non-illuminated steel sights for $25 (night sights are $57) from them. Add a $70 80% frame, and you can do a Glock build for a hair over $400.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-C...id=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&mehot=pp&sd=182614029957
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Combat-Armo...029957?hash=item2a84a4f685:g:sMcAAOSwXY5ZOtQ-

GuitarmanNick · Jul 18, 2017

I completed my G-17 build last night and am very pleased with the result. I used the Polymer 80 frame, a Swenson slide, a slightly used Lone Wolf barrel, and all new Glock internal parts in both the slide and lower. I have ordered a Wolff competition spring kit to lighten the 6 pound trigger pull a little, and picked up 3, 17 round mags from outside of this commie lovin' state. My total cost was $485 including the mags and all shipping costs.

My satisfaction is that the People's Republic of Maryland did not get a single penny in taxes and I have once again, avoided the hassle and extortion known as the HQL.

I have made a couple of observations while reading through the posts in this thread.

1. The term "plastic" is misused and misunderstood by some. Polymer is not plastic in the traditional sense and is actually a very strong material. Glock has passed tests where 10,000 rounds have been fired from the same gun without damaging the rails or failures. This is why law enforcement uses them. They are durable and very reliable! Now if you throw it out of car window while in a high speed chase, it may very well be destroyed but this is not something most of us will ever do.

2. "The slide will cut into the rails." This may be true if you do a poor job of cutting them. If you remove more material than necessary or do not cut them squarely, then the slide will do more damage than you did when cutting them. It is important to finish the rails correctly. Put some oil on some very fine grit wet/dry sandpaper and use it to polish the rails after cutting. I used 3000 grit. A smooth surface here will be have less friction and therefore less chance of wearing as some have claimed. If your slide cuts into the rails, blame yourself, not the material or design!

My new G-17 has passed all function tests, and was test fired successfully. It seems to shoot very well and cycles perfectly. I am planning some range time for Saturday after I install the new springs later this week.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wfwoyt666397y8n/2017-07-18%2008.22.15.jpg?dl=0

whistlersmother · Jul 24, 2017

OMG! You got a mag holding more than 10 rds! Oh the humanity! You just gave Frosh a nasty tinge in frosh hole!

I will eventually get somewhere to pick up some larger capacity mags. I ordered the ten with the parts kit so I'd at least have something to test with. This is my first glock (-enstein).

ken792 · Jul 27, 2017

Now they've shown a full picture of their new PF940v2 revised full size frame. It will no longer feel like a brick.

https://www.facebook.com/Polymer80I...8959999623430/778560028996754/?type=3&theater

Sewer Rat · Aug 2, 2017

Yup and ordered one via Brownells... which will then allow me to mod the grip on one of the other originals.

I absolutely loved the compacts I got, the new one looks to be the same only larger... be nice to have a younger bigger brother

JMD2004 · Aug 15, 2017

$485 seems like a decent deal for a build.

Alphabrew · Aug 28, 2017

I got a Spinta Precision blem slide for $145 shipped (no barrel or internals). I dig it! Sights on the way.

bbradshaw21 · Aug 29, 2017

So I'm going to be building my first one here once the full size v2 comes in (already pre-ordered). I've got a couple of questions for those who have already built one before. I plan on using it mostly for plinking and eventually maybe some 2 or 3 gun competitions at the local level (i have no delusions of being any good, just for fun).

Would I be going wrong by just using the stock frame parts kit and a complete OEM slide? I see a TON of neat looking aftermarket slides and barrels and parts kits but I just feel like that would be like me buying a sports car and only driving around in first gear.

With that, I've read a ton about how the stock trigger is gritty and bad and the worst thing in the world (sarcasm). I've never shot a Glock before and all the other handguns I have shot (Smith and Wesson, Sig, Colt) have had factory triggers. Is it really that big of a deal for someone like me? I know nothing in the world of aftermarket triggers.

Thanks in advance for your comments!

echo6mike · Aug 29, 2017

bbradshaw21 said:
So I'm going to be building my first one here once the full size v2 comes in (already pre-ordered). I've got a couple of questions for those who have already built one before. I plan on using it mostly for plinking and eventually maybe some 2 or 3 gun competitions at the local level (i have no delusions of being any good, just for fun).

Would I be going wrong by just using the stock frame parts kit and a complete OEM slide? I see a TON of neat looking aftermarket slides and barrels and parts kits but I just feel like that would be like me buying a sports car and only driving around in first gear.

I hope this sounds good to other people too, because that's exactly what I'm set to do.

Got all the pieces, I just have to make time to get started!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alphabrew · Aug 29, 2017

bbradshaw21 said:
So I'm going to be building my first one here once the full size v2 comes in (already pre-ordered). I've got a couple of questions for those who have already built one before. I plan on using it mostly for plinking and eventually maybe some 2 or 3 gun competitions at the local level (i have no delusions of being any good, just for fun).

Would I be going wrong by just using the stock frame parts kit and a complete OEM slide? I see a TON of neat looking aftermarket slides and barrels and parts kits but I just feel like that would be like me buying a sports car and only driving around in first gear.

With that, I've read a ton about how the stock trigger is gritty and bad and the worst thing in the world (sarcasm). I've never shot a Glock before and all the other handguns I have shot (Smith and Wesson, Sig, Colt) have had factory triggers. Is it really that big of a deal for someone like me? I know nothing in the world of aftermarket triggers.

Thanks in advance for your comments!

I've shot a bunch of USPSA matches with a bone stock Glock 19, had no issues. Stock Glock is more than adequate.

GuitarmanNick · Aug 29, 2017

bbradshaw21 said:
So I'm going to be building my first one here once the full size v2 comes in (already pre-ordered). I've got a couple of questions for those who have already built one before. I plan on using it mostly for plinking and eventually maybe some 2 or 3 gun competitions at the local level (i have no delusions of being any good, just for fun).

Would I be going wrong by just using the stock frame parts kit and a complete OEM slide? I see a TON of neat looking aftermarket slides and barrels and parts kits but I just feel like that would be like me buying a sports car and only driving around in first gear.

With that, I've read a ton about how the stock trigger is gritty and bad and the worst thing in the world (sarcasm). I've never shot a Glock before and all the other handguns I have shot (Smith and Wesson, Sig, Colt) have had factory triggers. Is it really that big of a deal for someone like me? I know nothing in the world of aftermarket triggers.

Thanks in advance for your comments!

You would so very well just using Glock OEM internal parts and slide. You may want to do the 25 cent trigger job to smooth out the trigger, but if you go with aftermarket springs, expect some issues.

I originally tested with OEM parts and all was fine. I installed a Wolff competition trigger kit, and had to install the OEM firing pin spring because I was experiencing failures to fire with the lighter spring. I still have the Wolff firing pin safety and trigger springs in my build and it is functioning perfectly, again.

I put 100 rounds through it last weekend and was quite pleased with it's performance.

I also modified the grip by smoothing it on the front and back and narrowed it at the top a little. It feels like it actually fits my hand now.

I may do a silicone carbide treatment on the grip eventually. My hands are too shaky to attempt a stippling job. I want to put more rounds through it like it is and see if I have any issues while shooting. So far, I think it may be okay the way it is.

teratos · Aug 29, 2017

Midway has Swenson slides for about $160. I got one and like it.

Brent · Aug 31, 2017

Kissed by my soldering iron
Agency Arms barrel and trigger
Big dots
Factory otherwise.

Love how this gun shoots

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alphabrew · Sep 3, 2017

So nice imma do it twice. This time in grey.

Alphabrew · Sep 3, 2017

brentona said:
Kissed by my soldering iron
Agency Arms barrel and trigger
Big dots
Factory otherwise.

Love how this gun shoots

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazing job on the stippling! Making me want to try it.

Brent · Sep 3, 2017

Alphabrew said:
Amazing job on the stippling! Making me want to try it.

Thank you! There really isn't much to it. This was my third go with it. Just takes time, good air circulation, couple stretch breaks, and a lot of patience!

That was my first. Those gen4 texture grips are a pain because I didn't sand it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

budman93 · Nov 13, 2017

Whats the going price on a Glock 19 complete slide now? I know BBP had them for $400 or 425 shipped a few months ago. Pricing it out from midway or brownells and lone wolf its still no cheaper than that to put one together yourself.

80% Glock build costs

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

Peace through strength

Beware of Dog

Peace through strength

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Peace through strength

Ultimate Member

Ultimate Member

Active Member

Binary male Lesbian

Attachments

Active Member

Ultimate Member

Binary male Lesbian

Ultimate Member

My hair is amazing

#2ALivesMatter

Binary male Lesbian

Attachments

Binary male Lesbian

#2ALivesMatter

Ultimate Member

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics