Nope never messed with the sides of the rails, what does the slide do with no barrel or recoil spring?
Poly80 porn..
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Nope never messed with the sides of the rails, what does the slide do with no barrel or recoil spring?
Just checked, and yes, it's where it needs to be.
This one you can see the gap and has been filed down, I don’t remember how far up it sat but definitely had binding til I filed down, I filed it down a touch more for the aftermarket slide and had to open the recoil spring area a little more due to the ndz recoil spring being slightly larger diameter, I have over 600rds through it before the new slide
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Still drags with a slide with no barrel and recoil spring. Ah, I see, you were hitting the _top_ of the rails. I thought it was more of an issue with the sides. I'll give hitting the top of the rails with a file a try... does sound plausible.
My locking block looks like yours... top is "higher" than the rear. But that's true on my OEM Glock, too, which is why I wasn't concerned.
My locking block looks like yours... top is "higher" than the rear. But that's true on my OEM Glock, too, which is why I wasn't concerned.
byf43
SCSC Life/NRA Patron Life
On the two pistols I've done, the rails/slides have been a little tight.
One slide is Brownell's, the other was a NIB Glock 22 slide assembly.
I removed everything from the slide (except the firing pin channel liner) and put a small amount of Valve Lapping Compound in the slide grooves.
Put the slide on the frame and work the slide 100 times.
Disassemble. Clean. Lube.
See how the stripped slide moves on the frame.
Repeated the valve lapping compound twice more, working the slide 100 times, each.
Disassemble. Clean. Lube, each time.
Reassembled the slide, put it back on the frame, and the action is smoother than my Beretta 92FS (and it feels like it's running on ball bearings).
Did this on both pistols.
Yes, you remove a LITTLE BIT of metal on both surfaces, but, they are mated to each other, now.
(I was worried that IF I had filed the rails, that I'd take off too much, where it didn't need to be.)
Yeah, lapping is the next step if the new locking block doesn't solve the problem. Truth is, my PF940C could use that, too, so it's not really such a big deal. Biggest problem is that it would mean buying a new slide for the PF940v2, since the one I'm testing with really belongs with my proper G17 (and I'm not risking it, since it's my IDPA SSP gun).
Dam problems with the compact too? I’d really like to these builds opened up. Both compacts went together easily, .40 has just over 100rds with no issues, 9mm hasn’t been test fired as of yet but seems to cycle great. I’ve been debating changing the 9mm up a bit.
Yeah, but the PF940C works, so I'm less concerned about that. It could be smoother, but it seems reliable enough as it is. But I do like the idea of an ultra-smooth slide ride, so lapping it does seem appealing from that perspective.
Follow-up: I did a field strip on my PF940C to determine why the trigger didn't always reset, and it turns out the slide fit is a lot smoother now that I've put some rounds through it. I _think_ the problem is that I'm missing the set screw in the LWD-UTH trigger housing, and if you hold down the trigger too hard, it fails to reset for whatever reason. I've contacted LWD for a set screw, which I hope solves it. (Otherwise, I'll buy a Glock housing and be done with it.) Not sure why mine was missing - either I missed it in the packaging, or it wasn't included. *shrugs*
FYI, I just tried my 9 p80c and it does the same thing with an overwatch trigger, only when I try to hold it forcefully thou.
Yeah, I'm noticing that my PF940v2 frame allows the same amount of trigger overtravel... but the trigger doesn't fail to reset. The PF940C is using LWD parts, the PF940v2 is using Glock parts. My stock OEM G17 does not have the same problem, and the trigger also doesn't seem to go in nearly as far when holding it down.
What I think is happening is that the overtravel on the trigger is allowing the connector bar to push so far back that it's pushing the LWD connector inwards just enough that it's out of position for the slide to reset it. The Glock connector is presumably a touch larger, just enough so that it's not out of position in that circumstance. So, I took my findings and ran a little experiment. I pulled a spare stock OEM Glock connector from my G26 frame parts kit and replaced the LWD connector with it. PROBLEM SOLVED. I can hold that guy as tight as possible, and it still resets properly.
I've ordered a dot connector to replace the one I pulled from my G26 parts kit. I rather suspect that the LW UAT would also alleviate this problem, because it seems like the trigger is allowed to travel more than it would in an OEM Glock frame.
What I think is happening is that the overtravel on the trigger is allowing the connector bar to push so far back that it's pushing the LWD connector inwards just enough that it's out of position for the slide to reset it. The Glock connector is presumably a touch larger, just enough so that it's not out of position in that circumstance. So, I took my findings and ran a little experiment. I pulled a spare stock OEM Glock connector from my G26 frame parts kit and replaced the LWD connector with it. PROBLEM SOLVED. I can hold that guy as tight as possible, and it still resets properly.
I've ordered a dot connector to replace the one I pulled from my G26 parts kit. I rather suspect that the LW UAT would also alleviate this problem, because it seems like the trigger is allowed to travel more than it would in an OEM Glock frame.
I managed to get my PF940v2 working correctly, or close enough, tonight. Really attacked the locking block rail with a coarse file, and seems to have gotten the top and the sides down enough for it to reliably (more or less) cycle dummy rounds when I hand rack it, with no lube. It's at the point where I think I could shoot it to wear it in the rest of the way.
I still think the locking block ships out of spec on the PF940v2, or at least they need to adjust the tolerances to be on the smaller side of "in-spec".
I still think the locking block ships out of spec on the PF940v2, or at least they need to adjust the tolerances to be on the smaller side of "in-spec".
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
Last build. Gun functions great but took a full mag of 124 +P before it would cycle the 115 crap.
I ended up getting everything pretty cheap and have more factory glocks then Mr Gaston himself sooo i treated this one as a learning curve. Ordered a hydro dip kit in a Siberian snow style camo. I wanted white but they sent me Arctic blue. The name sounded cool so i went with it. Arctic blue is really Tiffany blue apparently but i went with it thinking “This might be cool”. Hydro dipping is an easy process but took me like two hours for prep cuz i tried to get it right. The dip itself turned out decent, still a little clean up left BUT the gun looks like it was found in a smurf ass during a cavity search lol. So i don’t hate it but 100% should have gone white base coat and i would not dip a RTF again. This build is nothing but a range gun/learning gun so I’m not mad and i had fun doing it. I also learned a lot more on this build than the others.
Gotta take the positive with the negative. My wife called it pretty so maybe she will want to shoot it. In the pic the grip looks blurry, it’s actually not but the RTF kinda distorts it.
PS i don’t mind any jokes or comments about how ugly it is
I ended up getting everything pretty cheap and have more factory glocks then Mr Gaston himself sooo i treated this one as a learning curve. Ordered a hydro dip kit in a Siberian snow style camo. I wanted white but they sent me Arctic blue. The name sounded cool so i went with it. Arctic blue is really Tiffany blue apparently but i went with it thinking “This might be cool”. Hydro dipping is an easy process but took me like two hours for prep cuz i tried to get it right. The dip itself turned out decent, still a little clean up left BUT the gun looks like it was found in a smurf ass during a cavity search lol. So i don’t hate it but 100% should have gone white base coat and i would not dip a RTF again. This build is nothing but a range gun/learning gun so I’m not mad and i had fun doing it. I also learned a lot more on this build than the others.
Gotta take the positive with the negative. My wife called it pretty so maybe she will want to shoot it. In the pic the grip looks blurry, it’s actually not but the RTF kinda distorts it.
PS i don’t mind any jokes or comments about how ugly it is
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It's pretty crazy how much good a few mags will do to smooth out the action on these frames.
I will say that, shooting mine last night, my PF940v2 (Brownells slide, BCA barrel) and PF940C (w/ OEM G17 slide) had more trouble with the IMI 115gr EX-STAR JHPs than my factory G17 did... had a few FTFeeds, even when dropping the slide from lock on a loaded magazine. Regular IMI 115gr FMJ and Browning 147gr FP didn't show the same issues - so either I'm getting unlucky during break-in, or maybe there is some slight difference to how the magazine or barrel is held that could cause minor feeding issues with JHPs. Not sure yet. Not really planning on buying more, so it could be academic for my purposes.
Still, I LOVE these frames in terms of the ergos. The thumb ledge is an unexpected game changer for me when trying to do precision shots with my RMR.
StantonCree
Watch your beer
- Jan 23, 2011
- 23,932
Last build. Gun functions great but took a full mag of 124 +P before it would cycle the 115 crap.
I ended up getting everything pretty cheap and have more factory glocks then Mr Gaston himself sooo i treated this one as a learning curve. Ordered a hydro dip kit in a Siberian snow style camo. I wanted white but they sent me Arctic blue. The name sounded cool so i went with it. Arctic blue is really Tiffany blue apparently but i went with it thinking “This might be cool”. Hydro dipping is an easy process but took me like two hours for prep cuz i tried to get it right. The dip itself turned out decent, still a little clean up left BUT the gun looks like it was found in a smurf ass during a cavity search lol. So i don’t hate it but 100% should have gone white base coat and i would not dip a RTF again. This build is nothing but a range gun/learning gun so I’m not mad and i had fun doing it. I also learned a lot more on this build than the others.
Gotta take the positive with the negative. My wife called it pretty so maybe she will want to shoot it. In the pic the grip looks blurry, it’s actually not but the RTF kinda distorts it.
PS i don’t mind any jokes or comments about how ugly it is
That's pretty cool.
JCB003
Ultimate Member
- Sep 10, 2007
- 1,212
Poly80 PF940C in Gray (Glock internals)
Brownells slide with RMR cut (Glock internals)
KKM barrel with comp
Ameriglo suppressor height sights
Olight PL Mini Valkyrie
ZevTech pro magwell
Now just need the RMR.
Hope to do a few more after I see how this runs.
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