Is $275 a good price for a P38? I do not have a year for the pistol. Also anything to look for when I'm checking the gun out?
P38
- Thread starter Todd S
- Start date
The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast
Member Benefits:
No ad networks! Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership Discuss anti-gun legislation Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses Discover free outdoor shooting areas View up to date on firearm-related events Share photos & video with other members ...and so much more!
Member Benefits:
$275 sounds awful cheap for a P38, sure it's not a P1?
somd_mustangs
-----
- Jul 1, 2012
- 5,733
First assumption is that this is purely a post-war shooter and no concerns about mis-matched parts, import marks, refinish, etc. General checks for a semi-auto apply, like overall condition, no broken parts, things poking out where they shouldn't, bore condition, smooth slide action, slide hold-back with empty mag inserted etc etc.
Specific to P1/P38 an important check is the function of the safety/decocker. These can be difficult to troubleshoot & fix. Here's what I do
(CYA statement: bearing in mind this is advice only and I'm not a gunsmith):
1) Ensure it's unloaded !!
2) Pull the hammer back to "single-action engage" with the safety lever up. Trigger is aft, hammer cocked.
3) Move the safety down and hammer should drop but trigger stays back. THe hammer can be moved freely but should not engage the sear.
4) Move the lever back up and the trigger programs forward again, check that double-action works (since I have old ones I usually keep my thumb on the hammer to keep it from striking the firing pin)
5) Put the safety down and pull trigger, it will move the hammer some but not far enough back to engage the sear and/or drop the hammer.
If any of these steps don't work correctly, walk away. There are plenty more out there that do work.
Another good thing to check for is cracks or other damage in the barrel locking block. Easy fix with replacement part but indicative of abuse and/or firing hot loads.
Specific to P1/P38 an important check is the function of the safety/decocker. These can be difficult to troubleshoot & fix. Here's what I do
(CYA statement: bearing in mind this is advice only and I'm not a gunsmith):
1) Ensure it's unloaded !!
2) Pull the hammer back to "single-action engage" with the safety lever up. Trigger is aft, hammer cocked.
3) Move the safety down and hammer should drop but trigger stays back. THe hammer can be moved freely but should not engage the sear.
4) Move the lever back up and the trigger programs forward again, check that double-action works (since I have old ones I usually keep my thumb on the hammer to keep it from striking the firing pin)
5) Put the safety down and pull trigger, it will move the hammer some but not far enough back to engage the sear and/or drop the hammer.
If any of these steps don't work correctly, walk away. There are plenty more out there that do work.
Another good thing to check for is cracks or other damage in the barrel locking block. Easy fix with replacement part but indicative of abuse and/or firing hot loads.
NateIU10
Ultimate Member
P38 slide on a P1 alloy frame?
somd_mustangs
-----
- Jul 1, 2012
- 5,733
They made "P.38" 's up til at least the early 80's alongside the P1. I had a non-import West German (not Interarms) P.38 with alloy frame dated 1982 (IIRC) that was virtually NIB that I foolishly sold a few years ago. The box was marked P.38 as was the slide. But $275 does seem pretty low for one in good shape. Maybe it's a private sale...
Simply not enough info in the OP to make a proper diagnosis however
Simply not enough info in the OP to make a proper diagnosis however
Ironnewt
Ultimate Member
Well considering I saw one in my lgs for $550.00 I'd say yes
It might have been a P1. I'm not too sure what the differences are. I saw it at Chantilly. The guy had 3 of them. All the same price. He also had one that was in the original box and it said it was unfired, unissued. I was moving by pretty quick. The guy was talking to another customer and I just didn't wait to talk to him. I might go back and take another look. There was also a Star B at another booth, that i might pick up also.
Users who are viewing this thread
Forum statistics
Latest threads
-
-
Clearance Liqui Moly Motorbike 4T SAE 15W-50 Street | Full Synthetic Motor Oil | 4 Liter (2 Viewers)- Started by mpollan1
- Replies: 3
-
-
-
-
-
