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  • Jimbob2.0

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 20, 2008
    16,600
    Here's a copy of the sale flyer...
    img083.jpg


    BTW...correction...the 1892 Rio Bravo is made for Taylor and Company by Chiappa, not Uberti.

    Thanks for the heads up. May not have the energy to go as I’ll just have come back from Denver but I wouldn’t mind snagging one of their takedown carbines for field work
     

    fidelity

    piled higher and deeper
    MDS Supporter
    Aug 15, 2012
    22,400
    Frederick County
    Thanks! Getting a Taylor 1873 after Memorial Day. Gonna have to take a lot of pictures of that beauty when it's in my hands!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If in both hands, going to use a timer or your nose?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
     

    Mini14tac

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    May 14, 2013
    2,154
    North County
    Finally got around to picking up a Winchester 94. It's just a plain old Ranger with a few minor imperfections from what appears to being banged around in storage. Don't believe it was hardly fired. Built in 1995. Picked it it up off gun broker and had it transferred in to Gary @ High Rock.
     

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    Mini14tac

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    May 14, 2013
    2,154
    North County
    Sweet 94!

    Thanks! I figured that every gun guy should have a 94. I did completely disassemble and clean being that some of the oil that had turned to varnish. It was obvious that it sat for some time. The bore was clean and bright. I have pretty much finished up my collection of lever actions. (Winchester 88 in .308, 9422M, Marlin 1895 GG and 30AS). I have always wanted a 94 big bore in .356 but the ammo is fairly scarce and the guns are pricy. We used to hunt with a guy in WVA that used one and that gun was hell on deer.
     

    willtill

    The Dude Abides
    MDS Supporter
    May 15, 2007
    24,502
    Very nice Ranger. They really have a nice feel to them, don't they?


    .
     

    Petar

    Member
    Nov 18, 2010
    532
    Damn thing followed me home last night
     

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    Clifjr

    Active Member
    Feb 2, 2014
    966
    Germantown
    Few new editions to my collection. First is a Marlin 39m I picked up at GymRatz and second is a Winchester 94 30/30 that I got at the last Gettysburg gun show. It’s receiver was the typical Winchester sub par bluing that I thought would be a good project for me to learn re-bluing. I think it came out great!
     

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    Clifjr

    Active Member
    Feb 2, 2014
    966
    Germantown
    Did you rust blue that?

    I used a combination of the Birchwood Casey Perma blue liquid gun blue kit and Brownells Dicropan T-4 touch up liquid gun blue. I started by the instructions of the BC kit and the Perma Blue I felt wasn’t enough so I added the T-4 while still wet. As this was my first try at bluing, I think it came out great as everything I read about those Winchester receivers don’t take cold blue very good.
     

    willtill

    The Dude Abides
    MDS Supporter
    May 15, 2007
    24,502
    I used a combination of the Birchwood Casey Perma blue liquid gun blue kit and Brownells Dicropan T-4 touch up liquid gun blue. I started by the instructions of the BC kit and the Perma Blue I felt wasn’t enough so I added the T-4 while still wet. As this was my first try at bluing, I think it came out great as everything I read about those Winchester receivers don’t take cold blue very good.

    It did definitely come out great :thumbsup: Good job.

    I have a couple of serial number mismatched Enfields that I want to re-blue. I tried once with Birchwood Casey cold bluing and it came out like crap. I think that I may try this stuff next time. Anyone have any experience with it?

    DuraBlue:




    .
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,659
    MoCo
    Durablue is clearly some kind of catalyzed paint and not actual bluing.
    I've had great luck w/ cold bluing as long as I get the metal very clean and fairly hot before applying. It works poorly on room temp metal.
     

    willtill

    The Dude Abides
    MDS Supporter
    May 15, 2007
    24,502
    Durablue is clearly some kind of catalyzed paint and not actual bluing.
    I've had great luck w/ cold bluing as long as I get the metal very clean and fairly hot before applying. It works poorly on room temp metal.

    Maybe that is where I went wrong.


    .
     

    dreadpirate

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 7, 2010
    5,521
    Cuba on the Chesapeake
    It did definitely come out great :thumbsup: Good job.

    I have a couple of serial number mismatched Enfields that I want to re-blue. I tried once with Birchwood Casey cold bluing and it came out like crap. I think that I may try this stuff next time. Anyone have any experience with it?

    DuraBlue:




    .


    It's just Duracoat that looks like bluing. That being said; I have used Duracoat and the finish is tough as nails. It can go on too thick if you are not careful; do multiple (at least three) thin coats.
     

    Clifjr

    Active Member
    Feb 2, 2014
    966
    Germantown
    I did that 94 this past Monday outside as I wasn’t too familiar with any fumes the chemicals would give off. And yes the receiver was sitting in the sun shine so it was a little warm. If I remember correctly, I used the rust/blue remover three times with 0000 steel wool, then the degreaser cleaner, then one more time with the rust/blue remover and two more degreaser cleanings before I was happy with the metal. Used compressed air to dry it and then started the bluing.
     

    willtill

    The Dude Abides
    MDS Supporter
    May 15, 2007
    24,502
    I did that 94 this past Monday outside as I wasn’t too familiar with any fumes the chemicals would give off. And yes the receiver was sitting in the sun shine so it was a little warm. If I remember correctly, I used the rust/blue remover three times with 0000 steel wool, then the degreaser cleaner, then one more time with the rust/blue remover and two more degreaser cleanings before I was happy with the metal. Used compressed air to dry it and then started the bluing.

    When you started the bluing, did you rinse off with water after each bluing application, dry and and then continue to apply the bluing?

    Or did you just apply the bluing once?

    .
     

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