Savage 64 or Ruger 10/22 semi autoutomatic rifle

I will only recommend a 10/22. i've built many and they all work.

with NO AFTERMARKET PARTS, I modified a base model carbine that would do under 1" at 50yds with CCI standard velocity ammo. If you are patient, you can tune the factory gun/parts to do what you need to. its just faster (and more expensive) with aftermarket parts.

mags are available everywhere. i like the tactical innovations adjustable mags. just picked up three more for the 10/22 i built the g/f. the promag drums are cool, but take longer to load. for my own guns, i use the factory 10rnd units. if i need more than ten, i am using the wrong weapon. i prefer my 77/22s, but thats because i like bolt guns. in semi, the 10/22 is it.

Sonofagun said:

Yea I saw that Gander Mountain had one on sale for ~$100 a month or so ago but everyone was saying that the Marlin was a piece of junk, was OK for accuracy IF you were shooting at the broad side of a barn, etc.

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Nope, the 795 is great. It seems more accurate than my 10/22.

4g64loser said:

I will only recommend a 10/22. i've built many and they all work.

with NO AFTERMARKET PARTS, I modified a base model carbine that would do under 1" at 50yds with CCI standard velocity ammo. If you are patient, you can tune the factory gun/parts to do what you need to. its just faster (and more expensive) with aftermarket parts.

mags are available everywhere. i like the tactical innovations adjustable mags. just picked up three more for the 10/22 i built the g/f. the promag drums are cool, but take longer to load. for my own guns, i use the factory 10rnd units. if i need more than ten, i am using the wrong weapon. i prefer my 77/22s, but thats because i like bolt guns. in semi, the 10/22 is it.

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Where did you find the TI mags?

MH

Maryland Hunter said:

Where did you find the TI mags?

MH

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If I may, I can't answer where he found them but our industry partner joeboboutfitters just told us today that he has plenty in stock. They are excellent mags.

joppaj is right. patronize our IPs here. Joebob is good people.

I got mine from Dennis Todd (I was up in PA at a show and happened to be chatting with him, saw them, bought em).

4g64loser said:

I will only recommend a 10/22. i've built many and they all work.

with NO AFTERMARKET PARTS, I modified a base model carbine that would do under 1" at 50yds with CCI standard velocity ammo. If you are patient, you can tune the factory gun/parts to do what you need to. its just faster (and more expensive) with aftermarket parts.

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Can you summarize what you did?

halfcocked,

I guess you mean summarize what I did to the factory carbine. Ok, if I remember correctly the following modifications were performed. I may forget something somewhere along the way and with my usual disclaimer here-- "Just because I did this doesn't mean it is a good idea. If you do it, try to do it, or fail to do it, and hurt yourself, someone else, or your weapon's resale value, its on you". hehehe.

First thing you need to do is strip the rifle apart. I did this with an aluminum trigger housing model. I will not advocate monkeying with a plastic trigger housing model. Never done it, don't know how to do it right.

Rifle apart (fully-all springs, pins, etc, separated and cleaned of all lube/fouling/etc.) you will begin by feeling each part for any ridges, burrs, uneven spots, or lack of smooth finish. Any pins that feel rough will need to be cleaned up. Set them aside for treatment with emory cloth if rough or a polishing wheel/polishing compound if only minor. When polishing pins, polish the areas that contact moving parts only.

Barrel- Be sure that the chamber is smooth and free of burrs. Chamber face and chamber are both candidates for a polish job if you want to keep the weapon from fouling as quickly and clean up easier(not an accuracy mod). If you have the tools, check the chamber face for square against the chamber/bore. If this is not right, there isn't much you can do without machine tools or a gunsmith. If you have the tools and skill, checking and, if needed, recrowning the barrel can be a benefit.

Bolt- polish firing pin and firing pin channel. clean up all friction surfaces of the bolt. polish bolt face if you have the ability to do so while keeping it square (mostly an ease of cleaning thing, but it does help because if the bolt face builds fouling it can degrade accuracy due to irregular ignition and other issues). I polish the entire bolt as best I can and check for fit/free movement of firing pin just because I'm anal. With the bolt out, check for proper extractor fit with your intended ammunition (WITHOUT firing pin in place for safety).

Reciever- Polish all friction surfaces (use light sandpaper if needed to remove casting roughness or burrs. Triple check for proper fit and alignment of barrel and receiver. Then check again. Using the factory stop pin DOES NOT hurt accuracy in my experience. Using an aftermarket buffer is fine, and I have (or i've made my own) but for this build I used the factory pin to keep it all original. Check receiver/trigger housing fit (i.e. the pin fit) to be sure it is tight. this prevents the trigger group from wobbling about as you try to trigger properly.

Stock- Two choices- One, router out and AcraGlas (or use MarineTex or your other bedding material of choice) the stock and action. This takes time, skill, materials, and tools. If you have them, great. If you do not, option Two is simpler though not as perfect (for 1" at 50yds you shouldn't need option one). Relieve stock to only contact receiver at rear (preferably check repeatedly that you have cut a perfectly flat "shelf" for contact) and at the front (where the original stock screw is). ***Regardless of which option you choose, you WILL need to free float the barrel.*** I saw off the "step" area on the front of the stock where the barrel band used to be since I throw them away anyway. stain the area you cut off to match. I tend to overdo the float thing. use a much larger cut than needed just to be sure.

Trigger housing- OK, here's the important part. Trigger pull on a 10/22 is notoriously heavy. Hence all the aftermarket ones out there. With the factory parts, well, they are cast, so getting perfection is hard. You can do better than it comes, though. I'm sorry but i'm not going to detail how to do a sear/trigger job on a 10/22 because if you go too far it is just not safe and, in most cases, will not function. IF you don't mind trying, I will say that you need to ensure that the contact surfaces are square to each other and engage fully (sharpie or machinists blue will work for this). Relieve as needed, then polish fully. Polish ends of all moving parts (where they contact the trigger housing sidewalls) as this will reduce drag, cut locktime, and generally make the gun "feel" better to shoot. I also polish the trigger plunger, plunger hole, and the back of the trigger where the plunger contacts. I cut out the bolt release to make it an auto bolt release. Use a mill if you have it to get the rough cut, use a dremel if you don't. Fine dremel stone or good machinists file to get final contour. then polish sides of the release and the inside of the cut you just made. If you want to, check fit of and (if necessary) polish the mag retainer. Again, i'm anal. As a side note- I do not advocate the lightening of, shortening of, or the monkeying with springs in 10/22s. If you do so, it is on you to be good enough that you probably aren't even reading this lousy redneck how-to anyway (Chad........)

If I forgot anything, I apologize. It has been a while and I don't even have the rifle anymore. Those that read this, disagree, and think I've said something unsafe, please let me know and I will take it out. I am not a professional gunsmith. I just love .22s too much.

mbz300sdl said:

10/22 or 795 if your happy with 10rnd mags.

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10/22 if you like 50rd drums.