Romanian PSL-54C

I'm taking my PSL out to play at MG on June 6, just in case anyone wants to play with her.

June 6? hmmmm. D-day..... time to break out the Garand and the Mauser.

ooooooooooh.. i do!!

With the current member interest in the PSL54C , I thought I'd share the Zeroing procedure for the Romanian TIP2 ( POSP) scope.

Ever wonder why all PSO scopes sit off-center over the receiver of SVD type rifles? It is not because the designers have a bias against left handed shooters. Actually, it's because the original design of the Dragunov sniper rifle was to have a feature that allowed it to be loaded with stripper clips. The receiver cover originally was similar to the SKS design and had a slot to hold Moisin Nagant 5 round stripper clips. The scope had to be off to the side to allow space for this feature. When the stripper idea was scrapped the PSO scope and mount had already been designed. It was decided to retain the offset design and extra instructions were given to each soldier issued the SVD to adjust for windage when changing elevation settings. Because the scope doesn't sight down the center of the bore a windage correction must be made each time the elevation is changed on the scope turret.

The IOR LPS 4x6 TIP 2 ,4power scope usually ships out with the Romanian PSLs. While anyone with basic firearms knowledge ( AK47) can service and operate the PSL due to it similarity to the AK47 rifle. The TIP 2 scope is a bit intimidating at first due to the scarcity of information.Whatever is out there is clear as mud. These scopes do have excellent glass and are built like tanks. Every specimen that I have come across has a dead tritium light source ( half-life of 12.5 years) but aside from the usual scratches and dings, it works well.

The IOR LPS Tip 2 is a typical PSO scope and has the built in Dragunov rangefinding reticle. This is one of the easiest reticles to use for long range shooting, no math required for bullet drop compensation due to BDC built into the elevation turret. The BDC cams are also calibrated for 7.62x54R light ball ammo. ( Do not use heavier loads on the PSL)

The scope sits about 1/2 inch to the left of the bore line and can cause issues when zeroing and long range shots . Imagine the barrel pointing straight, the scope will be pointing to the right and converge at zero, at further ranges, this off set will put the aiming chevron further to the right. Resulting in shots going right, even if the rifle is zeroed at a certain distance. Keep this in mind as the windage knob comes into play at longer distances.

To ZERO the scope, loosen the two flathead screws on each turret. about 2.5 turns should do it. This allows you to turn just the top part of the turrets. " DREAPTA= Right, Stinga= left , Sug= Up, Sol= down. The turrets serve two purposes, when the screws are tightened, they function as BDC knob. when you loosen the two flathead screws, the top part rotates independently and allows for windage/ elevation adjustments for zeroing.

Fire groups of three shots and make the appropriate adjustments to windage and elevation. Zero at 25 meters , better yet... 100 meters. ( These are metric scopes).
Once your rifle is zeroed. turn the lower part of each turret ( marked 0-10) so that the "0" mark corresponds to the zero marker. tighten the two screws on each turret. Your rifle's BDC ( bullet drop compensator) is now calibrated as well. Adjustments are from 0( 25 yards) to 10( 1000 meters). tactile clicks also allow you to do this by feel.

The rangefinder is also easy to use, just frame a man sized standing target into the graph and see where it fits. The corresponding number is the estimated range in meters.

Windage correction:
Because the scope is off-set to the rifle's bore, you may need to make a windage correction for
distances beyond your 100 meter zero. You have two options to accomplish this task. Either turn the
windage drum up or down or use the hash marks to the left and right of the center chevron in the
reticle. You simply “hold over” left or right, aligning your target over a particular hash mark. Each hash
mark represents one click on the windage turret which translates to 1.9 inches of movement at 100
meters.
*Remember your reticle and elevation drum is calibrated for a projectile around 150 grains and a
distance in meters not yards.
** 1.5 meters = 4.9 feet, 1.7 meters = 5.58 feet, 1.8 meters = 5.9 feet

*** Also remember that if you zero at 100 meters, set your elevation turret to 1( = 100 meters) and the Windage to " 0"

Here's how it comes together:

You are going to shoot at a man-sized target at an unknown distance. You use the Dragunov reticle to figure out the estimated range. You figured, 400 meters.( the poor guys fits under the 4 mark of the rangefinder)(1.7 denotes 1.7meters or about 5'7")

Most scopes will require some kind of DOPE ( Data Of Previous Engagement)to calculate holdover for this distance and a degree in physics/rocketscience. For the PSO scope, Adjust the BCD ( elevation turret) to 4 ( 400 meters). How about the windage offset? alright, remember. you need to compensate for the scope mounted at an offset. to do this, Click the windage turret to 4= going to the left (Stinga= left) this is needed to compensate for the scope being off- axis from the bore of your rifle . Your TIP2 scope is now compensated for bullet drop and windage.

If you shoot at lets say a closer distance, lets say your typical 25 meter target. remember to turn both knobs to the zero adjustment and to dial in all other ranges on the turrets as you shoot further distances.

This procedure applies to just about any Russian PSO type optic.

I hope this helps.

Scar

THX I definately need to get my hands on one of these.

Trey said:

Let me know how you like the 1P21. I have the standard 4x PSO-1 on my NDM-86 and am not a fan of it (the lines of the reticle are so fine it's ridiculously hard to see).

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I had a very hard time trying to figure out the reticle on the 1P21 scope. It is similar to the Leatherwood ART II Camputer scopes and freakin too complicated to understand. The information available confuses the living daylights out of me.

It does not maintain zero at varied ranges, POI changes everytime you change magnification. The bullet drop cam adjust for Bullet drop with a change in magnification. I am better off with the standard 4x or 8x PSOP scope. I have changed the optics back into the original TIP2 scope as it is easier to learn to use. I'll play with the 1P21 when I get access to a range that is further out than 120 yards. For 100 meter/ yard distances. the 4x scope is much better.

ezeerider said:

Doesn't anyone make a scope mount and rings that are centered over the barrel that will fit a PSL? Seems like that would alleviate some of the complexity and also give you more scope choices.

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Yes,

Kalinka Optics makes a "almost" centered Weave Side Mount. It only off center by about 1/16".

A set of Millett Angle Lock Adjustable Rings will get it to complete center.

clandestine said:

Yes,

Kalinka Optics makes a "almost" centered Weave Side Mount. It only off center by about 1/16".

A set of Millett Angle Lock Adjustable Rings will get it to complete center.

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I agree. This new mount from kalinka optics should make things easier. It is low profile and allows one to mount standard optics. A 6-24x mildot scope should work really well with this set-up. The higher magnification will also squeeze out the accuracy out of these shooters. The lower profile eliminates the need for added cheekrest , better cheekweld, but hinders the use of Iron sights ( BTW... most are canted anyways--LOL).

http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/mounts...ofile-centered-side-mount-to-weaver-rail.html

I bought another PSL54C due to the lower prices and the most recent one that I got had a canted front sight base. This really bothers me a lot, something had to be done about it or I wont be able to sleep.A laser boresight confirmed that POA was substantially off when using irons. If I leave this alone, the front sight will have to be drifted way too much to the left and that is unacceptable.

To correct this issue, make sure that nothing else is canted. If the Rear base or gas tube was misaligned, I would send it back to the manufacturer. the specimen that I got just had the front sight base canted to the right, correcting it should take no more than an hour.( including profanity time and cigarette breaks to calm you down)

To correct this, the two pins that secure the base to the barrel had to be taken out. A 1/8" punch and a hammer should be able to accomplish this. save the pins for later. I used a broken allen wrench as a punch,as brass punches will typically mushroom or bend.

Using a rubber mallet, tap the FSB until the two protective wings of the front sight are in perfect alignment to the blade of the rear sight. I also used a laser boresighter to confirm alignment in conjunction with the front sight post. Mark the barrel and FSB with a line using a pencil, for reference as to make sure that it did not move when installing the pins back.
Using a cylindrical needle file, I carefully cut a new notch onto the barrel, using the holes as a guide. A 1/8" drill bit can also be used to cut the new notch.Re-install the pins and you are set. Some instant cold blue can be used to cover up the Idiot marks.

Now, the rifle looks much better and should zero easier.

BTW, the same procedure applies to AK rifles.

Thank you SCARCQB for sharing your knowledge! Also have a PSL-54c, but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet :-( How does one go to MG?

I've got a set of those Millet rings that anyone doing this can have for free. They aren't much good for anything else. BTW any rifle that is this complicated to zero and shoot is just not worth the trouble IMHO.

Where is everyone getting their mags from? I've been looking around, a lot of places are sold out. I'd ideally like to find the 4 pack in the pouch.

mbenz85 said:

Where is everyone getting their mags from? I've been looking around, a lot of places are sold out. I'd ideally like to find the 4 pack in the pouch.

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+1 ??????

PSL mags?

try Centerfire systems and J&G sales

Lx1x shooting the PSL54c at Myrtle grove today.

kamikazeH20mln said:

Thank you SCARCQB for sharing your knowledge! Also have a PSL-54c, but haven't had a chance to shoot it yet :-( How does one go to MG?

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No problem man. Always glad to share information.

Here is the site for MG.
http://www.dnr.state.md.us/publiclands/southern/myrtlegrove.asp

thanks for letting me shoot couple rounds.. you sure do got nice toys..

lx1x said:

thanks for letting me shoot couple rounds.. you sure do got nice toys..

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Your ARs are nice as well.

Misery loves company. After shooting 120 rounds of 7.62x54R my shoulder is black and blue. I had to switch to the AR

SCARCQB said:

Your ARs are nice as well.

Misery loves company. After shooting 120 rounds of 7.62x54R my shoulder is black and blue. I had to switch to the AR

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hell.. you've only shot couple at the beginning and it was already red.. its still a blast to shoot.

Russ D said:

I've got a set of those Millet rings that anyone doing this can have for free. They aren't much good for anything else. BTW any rifle that is this complicated to zero and shoot is just not worth the trouble IMHO.

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The PSO optics is way outdated but is fun to learn to shoot. One can simply use Irons or Standard optics. The 7.62x54R is cheaper to shoot than 308 and the AK47 action is hard to beat.

SVDs and Tokarev Rifles also fire the same cartridge but I would really hesitate to use corrosive ammo in a super expensive collectors gun. I also like to study the enemy's arms to exploit its weakness just in case( PSLs and Al kadesh are prolific in the sandbox). It is also the only affordable semi-auto chambered in the powerful 7.62x54R cartridge. that reason alone makes it worth shooting.

so far,

the PSL54C

Likes light ball ammo, < 150 grains, It can fire heavier rounds but case separation can be an issue. heavier loads that use brass casing can reduce the problems.

The Optics ( TIP2) is hard to use, not only does one have to compensate for bullet drop, for longer distances, windage also needs to be tweaked for compensate for the offset mount. ( in a wind less day, you will shoot to the right if compensation is not done)

It overheats fairly quickly. Once that happens, groups start to spread.

It is hard to fire left-handed or from a weak side.

The muzzle brake is just a brake, does not hide flash effectively

Recoil is hard, It can be uncomfortable at times, especially with heavier loads.

Iron sights are inferior compared to any US military sight system.

Mags can jam up when the rims get hung up on each other. Load mags carefully so that the rims overlap like shingles.

Barrels are thin, installing bipods can put pressure onto the barrel changing harmonics and can cause a flex.

Trigger quality is typical AK , do not expect a glass rod feel. It is a military trigger designed to shoot Bigger NATO soldiers.

Quality is hit/ miss. problems are will often result in the WTF? expression.
examples are:
Mismatched wood
Rusted parts
canted sights, barrels , gas ports, tubes.
bad headspacing
Finish is so- so

If you find one with no problems, I would keep it as those are rare. If its a minor fix, I'd keep it too. It is also hard to overcome the midset of putting AK47 action and the word accuracy in one sentence. Two of my PSL's average 1"-1.5" at 100 yards. I've lucked out with a .75 " group with match ammo(7N1).

once you get them running, they are indeed a pleasure to shoot.

PS:
Many Folks look at it and say that its an AK47. A big AK.... for that same reason, It will make you look shorter and your butt bigger.

Below:
Badguy with a PSL54C ( Dude, is that a big AK or are you really that short?, before you answer that, Can you please pass me that plate of bacon....)

Now I have never liked AK's much. I would love to have one, but to me they don't look good at all unless they are all black. However, the PSL is gorgeous to me. I would love to get one of these someday and try it out.