PSA - Don't get angry when the Loctite won't budge.

GuitarmanNick · Jan 6, 2019

pilot25 said:
I used Blue.

Wow! That should have been easy to remove. I use blue on my firearms that need it and can disassemble them for cleaning with no extra effort.

I have only seen that when red Loctite has been used. Usually, heating to around 500 degrees will melt it enough to allow removal of the fastener.

Some people forget that when using Loctite, you should only torque things down to normal rates. Too many guys will really crank down on things and aluminum does not like to be treated roughly!

As another member posted, corrosion can also be a big problem with aluminum. If you attempt to disassemble items with aluminum components, it is best to do it only when the items are cooled to the surrounding temperature. Attempting to take apart a hot aluminum component, may result in stripped threads or worse. I learned that the hard way many years ago trying to change the plugs on my Corvair Spyder before the engine cooled down. Broke a plug off in the head. DOH!

pilot25 · Jan 6, 2019

GuitarmanNick said:
Wow! That should have been easy to remove. I use blue on my firearms that need it and can disassemble them for cleaning with no extra effort.

I have only seen that when red Loctite has been used. Usually, heating to around 500 degrees will melt it enough to allow removal of the fastener.

Some people forget that when using Loctite, you should only torque things down to normal rates. Too many guys will really crank down on things and aluminum does not like to be treated roughly!

As another member posted, corrosion can also be a big problem with aluminum. If you attempt to disassemble items with aluminum components, it is best to do it only when the items are cooled to the surrounding temperature. Attempting to take apart a hot aluminum component, may result in stripped threads or worse. I learned that the hard way many years ago trying to change the plugs on my Corvair Spyder before the engine cooled down. Broke a plug off in the head. DOH!

I think this is all very accurate. I had problems then used the blue loctite and definitely made sure it was tight but I also didn't go over manufacture specs using a torque wrench.

There are a lot of reviews and forums discussing this mount and none are good. I did it because I felt paying another xx dollars for a mount was obscene. I probably didn't let it cool enough before twisting. In retrospect, I could have not cut the thing in half and just drilled out the screw completely. Once the one screw is removed the tension is gone and it releases. Cutting it from the top or disintegrating it with a drill would achieve the same results. However, I wanted the optic off and protected from any damage. Either way I don't think I'll be using blue on optics anytime soon again.

pilot25 · Jan 9, 2019

LaRue MRO mount. Highly recommend this so far. Also, thanks to this bumbling mess up I realized I like 1/3 co-witness much better. Probably would never have realized that if I didn't have this problem.

Everything comes up roses in the end.

fxk · Jan 9, 2019

willtill said:
Probably not the best QC controlled product that you had the unfortunate experience with. Crappy tapped screw holes and screws themselves.

I have the same issue with the external choke cylinder on my TriStar ATAC. After a few rounds of buckshot; the choke would start unscrewing. It's absolutely Maddening. I think I fixed it's goose good though with a liberal amount of blue Loctite. We shall see

.

Uh... I shoot some trap/skeet/clays and I can attest that shooting many rounds (and some condensation) and not pulling chokes occasionally can cause them to become more or less unremovable. Sometimes absolutely unremovable, even with damaging the choke tubes attempting removal - then one really is SOL (shucks out of luck). I've seen it quite a few times.

I use STOS (Slicker Than Owls $H1T) grease on my choke tubes and remove every two flats or so. Yes, I hand tighten my chokes every station. Small price to pay, IMNTBHO.

I would personally be SCARED TO DEATH using threadlocker on choke tubes - but that is just me...

-------------------------
I've also read that electrolsis/corrosion is typical between aluminum and stainless steel, besides both prone to galling. Most anti-seize copper or nickel formulations exacerbate the problem. Proper maintenance is not a cure.
https://www.saftlok.com/safteze/stainless-steel.htm

I have an older M/C with now lots of SS fasteners in soft aluminum - and lots of vibration. I've used METAL-FREE 2000 20005 Non-Metallic Environmentally Safe Anti-Seize Compound (https://www.antiseize.com/metal-free-2000-anti-seize-and-lubricating-compound) as a thread lubricant with proper torque and have experienced no problems, even after finding prior electrolysis corrosion on caliper-to-fork bolts. Beware of dissimilar metals in close contact.
--------------------------------
In places where they have to stay tight, and are subject to higher levels of vibration and other stress, I use Vibra-Tite VC3. This is different than the anaerobic compounds like Loctite and Permatex locking compounds as it is applied to screw threads and left to dry before assembly. The parts can be disassembled/reassembled a couple times without the need to reapply.
------------------------------
Also, depending on the brand or brand combo, Loctite puts both Red and Blue in RED containers, and Permatex also puts Red and Blue in BLUE containers.

YMMV.

pilot25 · Jan 9, 2019

Where does everyone place their red dot optic? I previously had a magnifier on it and decided it was time for it to go. I'm weak and it was too heavy. I also got rid of the backup sights. Vickers Tactical states he puts his Aimpoint over the center of the ejection port. Of course, depending on eye relief of certain optics that will change slightly. I have found the MRO can be placed just about anywhere and still have great field of view. I find putting it too close and it blocks my awareness outside the optic.

What do you do?

GuitarmanNick · Jan 9, 2019

I place a reflex as far forward on the receiver as it will fit and co-witnessed to my BUIS which I keep folded down. It makes it easier for me to pick it up quickly. If the red dot fails, the BUISs are up in a few seconds and I'm back on target.

TangoSierra27 · Jan 9, 2019

Ouch!

Magnumite · Jan 10, 2019

Over magwell/ejection port. The balance remains the same regardless of ammo count or mag used.

pilot25 · Jan 10, 2019

Magnumite said:
Over magwell/ejection port. The balance remains the same regardless of ammo count or mag used.

That seems to be the recommended location from most sites/experts/videos etc...

I was worried, in that location, the ejection of the brass would hit the optic. Previous I had it forward like GuitarmanNick stated. I had a magnifier on it with backup sights. Both of those came off and I just have the optic. So much lighter. I moved it around and the sweet spot for eye relief, balance on the rifle, and peripheral view seems to be right over the ejection port.

PSA - Don't get angry when the Loctite won't budge.

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