SKS Woes, GURU's wanted

TargetGrade · Apr 12, 2018

OK, here's pics of my two carbines. The sick one is a duckbill BUT since it's probably MISSING both the piston extension and piston return spring two bad things happen.

1. It's just a straight pull 30 round bolt action the way it is. :sad20:

2. Since I CANNOT remove the handguard the piston rod is in the housing where the piston extension SHOULD live.

You can see where I used a ink cartridge to try and put the piston in place, beat on barrel and butt plate, no soap.

Outside of cutting the handguard and piston rod is there another way I can get this sob apart??? :mad54:

The first two pics are from my "good one" that disassembles like it should.

This is proof... if it seems like a good deal from a gunshop at York Gun Show.... it might not be. Little doubt he knew of it's issues and he was probably holding his breath hoping I wouldn't notice. :sad20:

lee2 · Apr 12, 2018

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/sks/type-56/parts-list-type-56

Art3 · Apr 12, 2018

I'm not a guru, and I'm not going to tell you how you should mess up your rifle...

But...if it was mine, this is probably what I'd do:

1) Kroil. Based on the cost, I'm pretty sure this stuff has some sort of unicorn secretion in it, but it's pretty magical. https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokro...3583146&sr=8-3&keywords=kroil+penetrating+oil

2) Brass (mmmmaybe mild steel) rod and tappy tap tap. Having another SKS available would help identify the largest diameter rod that would fit through. :innocent0

It's a communist gun...they can take a hit.

3) More Kroil, take it out of the stock and put the action in a trash bag (to protect my food from the Kroil), then leave it in the chest freezer for 24hrs or so in the hopes of shrinkage.

4) More Kroil, tappy Tap TAP.

That's what I'd do :shrug:

Edited to add: I'm trying to remember my SKS Anatomy, and don't have one in front of me right now...are we sure that the cam latch (next to the sight, that holds the tube on) is not putting pressure on the piston when it is in that (opened) position?

TargetGrade · Apr 12, 2018

Art3 said:
I'm not a guru, and I'm not going to tell you how you should mess up your rifle...

But...if it was mine, this is probably what I'd do:

1) Kroil. Based on the cost, I'm pretty sure this stuff has some sort of unicorn secretion in it, but it's pretty magical. https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokro...3583146&sr=8-3&keywords=kroil+penetrating+oil

2) Brass (mmmmaybe mild steel) rod and tappy tap tap. Having another SKS available would help identify the largest diameter rod that would fit through. It's a communist gun...they can take a hit.

3) More Kroil, take it out of the stock and put the action in a trash bag (to protect my food from the Kroil), then leave it in the chest freezer for 24hrs or so in the hopes of shrinkage.

4) More Kroil, tappy Tap TAP.

That's what I'd do

Edited to add: I'm trying to remember my SKS Anatomy, and don't have one in front of me right now...are we sure that the cam latch (next to the sight, that holds the tube on) is not putting pressure on the piston when it is in that (opened) position?

Thought about what you say already.... no tap tap tap UNTIL I figure out how to remove bolt assy. Nope, cam latch is clear, note how easily I can get the other off but I can see piston rod or rod extension locking it tight.

Art3 · Apr 12, 2018

TargetGrade said:
Thought about what you say already.... no tap tap tap UNTIL I figure out how to remove bolt assy. Nope, cam latch is clear, note how easily I can get the other off but I can see piston rod or rod extension locking it tight.

Wait...is the bolt assembly stuck too? :eek:

TargetGrade · Apr 12, 2018

Art3 said:
Wait...is the bolt assembly stuck too?

No but it must be removed to get a clear shot at tapping it.

Art3 · Apr 12, 2018

TargetGrade said:
No but it must be removed to get a clear shot at tapping it.

Right...IIRC, it should be removable regardless of the jammed piston... :shrug:

I'm not trying to sound like a jerk...do you mean you don't know how to remove it? If that's the case, it's pretty simple. I'm sure there are vids, or we could talk you through it here.

TargetGrade · Apr 12, 2018

Art3 said:
Right...IIRC, it should be removable regardless of the jammed piston...

I'm not trying to sound like a jerk...do you mean you don't know how to remove it? If that's the case, it's pretty simple. I'm sure there are vids, or we could talk you through it here.

No jerk involved, I've never done it, hopefully I can find a step by step vid.

lee2 · Apr 12, 2018

TargetGrade · Apr 12, 2018

lee2 said:
.

Damn, thanks Lee, looks like a cinch.

Art3 · Apr 12, 2018

Gotcha. I misunderstood what you meant about figuring out how to do it as meaning something was wrong (which, probably, could be fixed by Kroil and a hammer

)

These rifles are very simple, especially after you've done it once. They are meant to be field stripped and maintained by untrained peasants without tools. I'm not saying that to be derogatory in any way. I actually respect them for it.

The short version...from memory a while ago:
1) Firearm unloaded, double verified.
2) bolt forward. I think it should be cocked.
3) there's a lever on one side of the rear "dust" cover over the bolt carrier that looks similar to the one that retains the gas tube. It needs to be rotated up so many degrees (wiggle it while pulling it out (perpendicular to the receiver), and you'll find the sweet spot). You might need a tool if it is snug or sticky. Be careful about scratching the finish, if you are worried about that sort of thing. I think the pin will still be retained by the receiver, but it will come out enough that the cover can be removed by lifting it from the rear. There might be a little spring tension...
4) You'll see the big spring. Remember which way it goes...I think the wavy end goes into the bolt carrier while the straight end is back, under the cover.. Lift the back up from the receiver and then pull it out from the back of the bolt carrier.
5) Pull the bolt carrier all the way back, and with a little jiggling, it should be free...bringing the bolt with it. They'll separate very easily, don't let the bolt drop on your foot.
6) reinstallation is basically the reverse...with a little finesse to keep the bolt and carrier together as they go back.

Or...look for a vid

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Art3 · Apr 12, 2018

lee2 said:
.

TargetGrade said:
Damn, thanks Lee, looks like a cinch.

Yeah...just do that

clandestine · Apr 12, 2018

If you need help, let me know and I can meet you in my trailer after 7PM during the week.

TargetGrade · Apr 12, 2018

clandestine said:
If you need help, let me know and I can meet you in my trailer after 7PM during the week.

Thank you sir, will see how this shakes out before I call the Calvary! :thumbsup:

TargetGrade · Apr 16, 2018

Video was perfect, looks like I'm MISSING the piston extension and piston return spring. :mad54:

Anyway if that's all that's wrong it COULD have been a lot worse! 16 bucks for both.... Ebay, I can deal with that.

303_enfield · Apr 16, 2018

Lots of them in PA are like that. A legal straight pull hunting gun now.

IronEye · Apr 16, 2018

I never considered that. Wonder if the missing parts are stored in the stock trap?

Would this damage the piston over time?

John from MD · Apr 16, 2018

When I used to make SKS hunting rifles for folks, I used to remove the piston and installed a plug it its place. If you ever want to return it to semi, you just tap the plug out.

TargetGrade · Apr 16, 2018

IronEye said:
I never considered that. Wonder if the missing parts are stored in the stock trap?

Would this damage the piston over time?

Nope, not in there. My new/used parts are due Monday.

Art3 · Apr 16, 2018

How hard was the piston jammed in there?

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