-Mil-Surp-Phreak-
Ultimate Member
Lowes has a 4pack of quick clamps 2 of each size and 2 quick grip alligator clips on sale sometimes for like 30 bucks. Bought 4 of those packs and they work wonders. It really is like having extra sets of hands.
Nice DIY Workbench for about $50.
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44 Bulldog
Active Member
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Nice.
That is not plywood, that is chipboard. Not as sturdy as plywood.
I make my benches out of actual 1/2" ply, and in most cases, a double layer.
Glue all joints as well as screw. Yellow carpenter's glue works perfectly for this.
For the surface I either epoxy paint or put laminate on it. If you are going to pound on it, epoxy is better. For reloading, I used matt white laminate.
That is not plywood, that is chipboard. Not as sturdy as plywood.
I make my benches out of actual 1/2" ply, and in most cases, a double layer.
Glue all joints as well as screw. Yellow carpenter's glue works perfectly for this.
For the surface I either epoxy paint or put laminate on it. If you are going to pound on it, epoxy is better. For reloading, I used matt white laminate.
mranaya
Task Force Sunny, 2009
Wow. Very nice. But I'm not going to let my wife see this. She'll expect me to stop using her kitchen table.
missing_the_cheese
Active Member
Very nice... looks similar to my creation from last weekend just with a plan! Admittedly mine was fueled by a desire to hide from the family on a saturday afternoon and a few sips of Mr. Boh.
ShoreShooter
Ultimate Member
- Feb 27, 2013
- 1,042
Great job.
After using something similar for about 25 years, here are a few improvements.
First, get some finish grade plywood, about a half inch thick. Not subflooring oriented strandboard. True plywood from veneered wood, with some sort of decent outer layer. Cut it so you have a piece about a foot wide, and long enough to span the length of the bench. Use true wood screws, drill holes and counter-sink the heads, and screw that across the two front legs at the very top, as a wider and stronger front apron. It will keep the bench from racking from side to side, as if you had diagonal bracing.
Second, replace the top with two by sixes cut to length of the table, with several inches of overlap beyond the base sides. Best to rip or plane the rounded edges off of the boards so the seams are more flush. Best yet to glue them up together, but not strickly necessary. Counter-sink the heads of the screws used to screw them down.
Third, IF you want to use it for any woodworking, as I do, get at least one of these:
http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/90407a-md.jpg
That is a bench dog. Drill a hole or two in the top of the bench in strategic locations. The hole needs to be an eighth inch bigger than the post of the bench dog. If you slip the dog into the hole and drop the clamp head down onto something you are working on, and give the top of the clamp a light tap with a hammer, the dog post will seize up in the hole and clamp your work down. It releases quickly and easily with a light hammer tap on the back of the dog.
Get some clamps that you can use to clamp work along the front of the new apron. You can use that to hand plane boards, etc. For this, I found it useful to take some 1 inch square stock, about 3 or 4 inches long, and just hand whittle down the square end into a tapered round end on one side. Drill some holes in the front apron to fit those pegs. Use a light hammer tap to set the pegs, and they are useful to support work across the front of the bench, held tightly by a clamp.
Just a few thoughts from experience.
Enjoy your bench. It will last you a lifetime.
After using something similar for about 25 years, here are a few improvements.
First, get some finish grade plywood, about a half inch thick. Not subflooring oriented strandboard. True plywood from veneered wood, with some sort of decent outer layer. Cut it so you have a piece about a foot wide, and long enough to span the length of the bench. Use true wood screws, drill holes and counter-sink the heads, and screw that across the two front legs at the very top, as a wider and stronger front apron. It will keep the bench from racking from side to side, as if you had diagonal bracing.
Second, replace the top with two by sixes cut to length of the table, with several inches of overlap beyond the base sides. Best to rip or plane the rounded edges off of the boards so the seams are more flush. Best yet to glue them up together, but not strickly necessary. Counter-sink the heads of the screws used to screw them down.
Third, IF you want to use it for any woodworking, as I do, get at least one of these:
http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/90407a-md.jpg
That is a bench dog. Drill a hole or two in the top of the bench in strategic locations. The hole needs to be an eighth inch bigger than the post of the bench dog. If you slip the dog into the hole and drop the clamp head down onto something you are working on, and give the top of the clamp a light tap with a hammer, the dog post will seize up in the hole and clamp your work down. It releases quickly and easily with a light hammer tap on the back of the dog.
Get some clamps that you can use to clamp work along the front of the new apron. You can use that to hand plane boards, etc. For this, I found it useful to take some 1 inch square stock, about 3 or 4 inches long, and just hand whittle down the square end into a tapered round end on one side. Drill some holes in the front apron to fit those pegs. Use a light hammer tap to set the pegs, and they are useful to support work across the front of the bench, held tightly by a clamp.
Just a few thoughts from experience.
Enjoy your bench. It will last you a lifetime.
Desert84eagle
Member
Great idea, really appreciate the detail and pics!
Nice design and good job...
What he said but I add a layer of masonite hardboard on top of the work surface. Then you can get by with less costly OSB board underneath. Tack the hardboard down at the corners so you can easily replace it if it becomes cut up, scarred or otherwise boogered up.
What he said but I add a layer of masonite hardboard on top of the work surface. Then you can get by with less costly OSB board underneath. Tack the hardboard down at the corners so you can easily replace it if it becomes cut up, scarred or otherwise boogered up.
bigalf
Active Member
I'm half way there. Got the truck, just need the space to set it up. I don't mind helping anyone pick up lumber if they want to do this project.
madchestermonkey
Pond straddler
I used the same plans, just tweaked them a little to suit. The best thing I did was put a strip of inch angle iron on the leading edge. Protects the edge and give you a handy solid edge
shocka04
Active Member
+1, I'd use OSB for storage but not a top layer for a work bench.
Bench looks good though
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