ultrasonic + kroil + heated?

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  • davsco

    Ultimate Member
    Oct 21, 2010
    8,624
    Loudoun, VA
    threw a handgun slide (hard chromed), and ar-9 and ar-15 BCG's and some other parts into my ultrasonic filled with Kroil and ran it thru a couple of heat cycles. the slide wasn't that dirty to begin with, but when i pulled it out it had black gunk on it that i couldn't scrub off with a toothbrush. didn't check the other parts yet.

    I bought a gallon of SLIP 2000 - 725 GEN CLEANER/DEGREASER and was going to try that in the ultrasonic machine, with heat on, in hopes of removing this gunk.

    Not sure if the Kroil burned and caked on, or it displaced/emulsified lead and/or powder that solidified elsewhere, or what?

    Any ideas and input appreciated!
     

    trikshot

    Active Member
    Industry Partner
    Nov 4, 2009
    144
    Eastern Baltimore County
    I always pour my ultrasonic cleaner (Gunzilla) through a coffee filter to strain it, after several uses. A lot of gunk/particles are removed. With that said, I suggest that you use a water-based ultrasonic cleaner that is safe for all metals. Scrub, rinse and dry as best you can, then immerse in your filtered Kroil to displace any residual water. Do this without heat and only for about a minute. Check Brownells for water-based cleaning products. Do not use household cleaners or products not formulated for use in cleaning metals in an ultrasonic cleaner. Good luck
    John
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    I have had Kroil separate and congeal in the container from being exposed/stored incorrectly and subjected to higher than normal temperatures in my shop. Or at least that's what I think. The can was also left open to air without the spout being capped for an extended period of time. It was a go to can of sorts on the bench. Years ago I happened into a lifetime supply and one particular can displayed the anomaly.
    Other cans that remained unopened are still good to go but the suspect can turned to a sludge like matter that separated from the rest of the contents. It was like a bluish black slime that would color different types of metal that didn't have a blued or phosphated/ parkerized surface. The clear/reddish tint of the contents did however remain partially intact.
    It was however useful for blending oxpho blued spot finishes after being gently warmed (the part) but it would discolor some but not all metals. It would penetrate the surface of the metal pretty deeply and could only be removed with a mill file or abrasive paper. Steel bronze or wool wouldn't touch it.
     

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