brass vs copper brushes for gun cleaning?

Omega21 · Jul 10, 2017

Found this on Amazon while looking to replenish my cleaning kit: https://www.amazon.com/Champs-Doubl...F8&qid=1499736637&sr=1-7&keywords=brass+brush

What would be the difference between copper & brass in terms of cleaning pistols & rifles? Where would I use one versus the other? Both are obviously softer than steel, so why both?

Boondock Saint · Jul 10, 2017

Opinions are like sphincters; everyone has one. Well, a lot more than one, really.

Anyway, my opinion is that if you're using a metal brush of any kind anywhere on your firearm, you're doing it wrong. My preferred cleaner is Wipe Out. Apply, let it do its work, patch it clean. No need for harmful scrubbing anywhere. The firearm is cleaner than it would otherwise be and with much less work on your end. Go behind with your oil/protectant of choice and you're done.

This opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it, so consider that carefully. Good luck.

Doco Overboard · Jul 10, 2017

A copper brush or piece of copper wire rubbed on the exterior of a blued firearm will remove rust without damaging the bluing underneath it leaving as much original finish as possible. Good for things that have a little value. Some call it the penny trick but the softer the copper the better.

clandestine · Jul 10, 2017

Boondock Saint said:
Opinions are like sphincters; everyone has one. Well, a lot more than one, really.

Anyway, my opinion is that if you're using a metal brush of any kind anywhere on your firearm, you're doing it wrong. My preferred cleaner is Wipe Out. Apply, let it do its work, patch it clean. No need for harmful scrubbing anywhere. The firearm is cleaner than it would otherwise be and with much less work on your end. Go behind with your oil/protectant of choice and you're done.

This opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it, so consider that carefully. Good luck.

This! Wipe Out.

Dont use Foaming Wipe out on an AR, use the liquid. You dont want that foam in your gas system. It makes a nsaty blue/green goo.

Brushes are not for maintenance, they are for neglected bores only at best.

Ill also add that people clean their bores too often. Find a baseline for when accuracy drops off and then make that your cleaning schedule.

molonlabe · Jul 10, 2017

More .22 rifle bores have been destroyed by over cleaning. A gun club I belonged to cleaned the .22' every few years or three youth fest. I just use a patch on mine except the shotgun. Patches won't touch the plastic from the wads. That being said I never found a reason to scrub a receiver with anything but a nylon brush.

As for removing minor rust from blueing I was taught to use 0000 steel wool with WD40. Never hurt the finish.

Biggfoot44 · Jul 10, 2017

( When brushes are called for ) little practical difference between copper and brass, and may be used interchangably .

Doco Overboard · Jul 11, 2017

Using copper to remove external rust is generally reserved for finer firearms where as much finish needs to remain as possible. For my run of the mill stuff steel wool works good after being wet. There's even bronze and copper wool available for those who need it. I dont worry about a copper bore brush to remove fouling just to get things moving but most of the time you can end up removing copper from the brush if you over do it thinking its gilding material. Stainless steel is where you have to be careful especially when the two are put together because it is so soft. Or worst yet changing direction or bouncing the steel loop of a brush off the leade. The better a barrel is made the less you have to clean it most times anyhow. Most of my rifles are wartime surplus anyhow and arent made to be babied. The custom stuff never sees a brush unless its nylon and most of the work there is just for the chamber. Just Kroil and proper fitting patches with PH jags proportionate to the bore diameter. Everything there is sighted in for a cold barrel zero anyhow so Im not roasting the barrel. Heat and abrasive powder fouling is probably worst for a barrel. I wouldnt know how to get lead fouling out of some barrels without a Lewis lead remover or a brush with copper screen. Thats just my two cents, it works for me.

km04 · Jul 11, 2017

clandestine said:
This! Wipe Out.

Dont use Foaming Wipe out on an AR, use the liquid. You dont want that foam in your gas system. It makes a nsaty blue/green goo.

Brushes are not for maintenance, they are for neglected bores only at best.

Ill also add that people clean their bores too often. Find a baseline for when accuracy drops off and then make that your cleaning schedule.

Thanks for this tidbit of knowledge Chad. All my time in the military, every time we cleaned weapons, a brush was used, be it a copper bore brush or the copper wire "tooth brush". Naturally this carried over into my life with my personal firearms. I do have Wipe Out and use it, so I am covered on that.

pcfixer · Jul 13, 2017

I have not used Wipe Out yet. Usual maintenance after shooting is Hoppe's Bore cleaner for lead etc. Hoppe's Gun cleaner works real well on AR's, my 30-06, 243, handguns including 22. hard one to clean, but only use Hoppe's oil or Rem Oil on a patch or swap
a few times in barrels. .17 is most difficult with small rods with a patch or swab. Always wipe entire gun down wit light oil or silicone cloth with sprayed oil. Guns are stored in a green silicone sock. Black Powder rifle get same treatments.

clandestine said:
This! Wipe Out.

Dont use Foaming Wipe out on an AR, use the liquid. You dont want that foam in your gas system. It makes a nsaty blue/green goo.

Brushes are not for maintenance, they are for neglected bores only at best.

Ill also add that people clean their bores too often. Find a baseline for when accuracy drops off and then make that your cleaning schedule.

Uncle Duke · Jul 13, 2017

Like many I'd guess, I've used Hoppes for years.

Heard about the Wipeout suggestion for the first time here.

Clean a barrel with Hoppes. Take your time with it and do it right.

When those patches are coming out as clean as clean gets?

Run a patch of Wipeout through that bore.

Tell you what.....what you'll see is eye opening.

Do NOT get Wipeout on oil or varnish based stock finishes though!

K31 · Jul 13, 2017

I don't like using metal brushes either but I assume (I've never tested this assumption) that brass would be more immune to ammonia-based cleaners.

Uncle Duke · Jul 13, 2017

BoreTech makes a line of jags and nylon brushes that will eliminate solvent related false positives, and are safe for bores.

Probably others as well, but BoreTech is the one that first comes to mind.

marc357 · Jul 13, 2017

Concur on the Wipe-Out. It works great. I clean everything with it.

Spray in the Wipe-Out, let it soak, push out the blue goo, then I hit it with Hoppes, then patch clean with De-natured alcohol.
If it's really filthy, (or the patch has some rust/ brown colored goo, which indicates carbon)- I'll repeat. A carbon buildup in the throat area can increase pressure, and also cause both pressure and accuracy problems in precision rifles. If you let it build up for too long, it can be a real bear to clean out. If it gets bad, a good soaking with Marvel Mystery Oil will help cut the carbon.

You can read the patches:
Blue= copper
Black/ gray= powder fouling
Brown/tan/rust color= carbon

clandestine · Jul 13, 2017

marc357 said:
Concur on the Wipe-Out. It works great. I clean everything with it.

Spray in the Wipe-Out, let it soak, push out the blue goo, then I hit it with Hoppes, then patch clean with De-natured alcohol.
If it's really filthy, (or the patch has some rust/ brown colored goo, which indicates carbon)- I'll repeat. A carbon buildup in the throat area can increase pressure, and also cause both pressure and accuracy problems in precision rifles. If you let it build up for too long, it can be a real bear to clean out. If it gets bad, a good soaking with Marvel Mystery Oil will help cut the carbon.

You can read the patches:
Blue= copper
Black/ gray= powder fouling
Brown/tan/rust color= carbon

Marc357's advice is great IMO. The throat deposits are often an area where a brush is needed. Some calibers then to leave deposits more than others.

Omega21 · Jul 14, 2017

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I was not asking about bore brushes, rather the toothbrush style ones like in the picture below. I'm not removing rust off of high end arms, so sounds like there's no reason to have copper toothbrushes.

as far as the WIPEOUT goes, I find 3 types on Amazon. 2 liquids and one foam. I get why using foam on an AR is problematic as the foam expands into the gas port and gas tube. But do you guys use the "Accelerator Bore Cleaner" (blue bottle) or the "Patch Out Bore Cleaner" (orange bottle) or the foam?

km04 · Jul 15, 2017

use them both, the accelerator first, then the WipeOut.

Omega21 · Jul 16, 2017

km04 said:
use them both, the accelerator first, then the WipeOut.

Accelerator the Patch Out liquid or Accelerator then foam?

km04 · Jul 16, 2017

Sorry about that, I wasn't very clear was I? You use the accelerator liquid first, then the WipeOut liquid. I have not used the foam. The accelerator acts as an accelerator for the WipeOut, cutting the time needed in the bore significantly, according to them. I have both, have used both and it does work, but I also have no problem using just WipeOut and letting it do it's thing. It's a good product and you should be happy with it.

Pinecone · Jul 17, 2017

molonlabe said:
More .22 rifle bores have been destroyed by over cleaning. A gun club I belonged to cleaned the .22' every few years or three youth fest. I just use a patch on mine except the shotgun. Patches won't touch the plastic from the wads.

As for removing minor rust from glueing I was taught to use 0000 steel wool with WD40. Never hurt the finish.

When I shot on my college rifle team, they cleaned the rifles once a year. At the end of each season.

brass vs copper brushes for gun cleaning?

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