new to glock

well in upgrading handguns. in general.
gen 4 G17. already have TFO's and i might or might not put into carry rotation maybe take it on my backpacking adventure if i do not get a G41. ( i like a longslide) or a p227.

whats this trigger/disconnect thing all about with no safety can I lighten it to 3.5lbs and still carry it with no worries.
I just wanna make my glock shoot better (thoughts in the right direction)


I have a bersa that the trigger is so light i worry sometimes.

There is no reason for. 3.5lb trigger in a defensively pistol. Frankly I've backpacked with a G22 and unless you're going to open carry, it's cumbersome. As a CCW gun it will be great in a good holster worn on a good belt and with some wardrobe planning on your part.

I agree with joppaj; don't bother with the trigger. Glock triggers are about as good as it gets for out of the box.

I'd recommend more training. The G19 is concealable, plenty firepower too.

A Glocks Trigger can be improved drastically but it cost some coin and a GOOD Glock Gunsmith. What you mentioned O.P. is unsafe and dangerous.

3.5# Connectors lighten the weight but increase the creep in my experience. I don't use them in my Glock Trigger Work.

Some people put in super light springs, remove Firing Pin Safeties, Disable the Trigger Safety, and install Titanium Parts. All bad ways to go, especially on a carry/defensive Glock.

A good, reliable Defensive Glock Trigger can be setup about 4.5# in total weight, but its split by making the trigger a smooth 2 stage. It can be accomplished with a Glockwerks Trigger (Just the Trigger), a Ghost Spring Kit (Only use the Firing Pin Safety Spring), and some good break in if one dosent want to pay a Smith.

dude I only have SO many hours in a week lol i shoot all the time and i guess that came off as parts will make me better I am more than confident in my skillset and practice frequently.... no i want them to make life easier. like bigger mag release. and things like that..
also im torn between a g34 and a new 41.. something about a long slided 45 gets my juices going.

Listen to Clandestine...
I have a 34 with a trigger under 2lbs I use for playing silly games with guns only.
It has much creep and takes years of dedication to shoot well. It did not start as a trigger that light, nor did it get there over night.
It is sprung to my loads and will not fire most factory ammo.
That gun has over $200 in parts, and a solid 40 hours in labor to get it reliable, while keeping it safe.
Knowing what I do now I would not go that route again to build a game gun.
I also have a 19, and a 26 that I have left the hell alone and would trust my life to.
Trigger work, and replacement parts will not make you a better shooter as quickly as confidence in your equipment, and practice will.

see imma stick with my 1911 lol..

Maybe it is just age and round count, but my Gen 2 G17 is about perfect.

From a self defense perspective, I would envision myself very tense, and a light trigger could start something that ends me jail.

I remember the first time my daughter put her finger on my VQ modified Ruger 10/22... Fired a LOT earlier than she anticipated and freaked her out a bit.

I always keep that vision in my head as to NOT make triggers too light...

YMMV.

squirrels said:

It may sound "off" to some, but when I think about it, in a defensive (non-sport-shooting) scenario, if you've gotten to the point where you can feel the "creep" in your Glock's connector, safety is a moot point.

You've already placed your finger on the trigger, disabling the safety, squeezed past the first "stage", and started tugging on the second. In the "four rules" manner of thinking, you've already committed to your decision to shoot.



Does it increase the creep, or just make the existing creep more apparent?

Click to expand...

a 3.5# Connector blurs the stages and makes them non defined.

A Factory Glock usually has 2 defined stages. The first stage is light but a little rough (Can be smootherd up with an Aluminum Trigger and some polishing), the second stage is a little heavy and has some slight creep (Can be removed by stoning the Trigger Bar engagement surfaces)

When you add a 3.5# connector those 2 defined stages are a spread out into a lighter LONG trigger pull, sorta like an AK trigger pull imo. I hate the things.


As far as feeling creep under stress you are dead wrong. Perhaps inexperienced shooters but several of my friends who are LEO's have had shoot scenarios where they have described sitting on the "wall" of the trigger in shoot scenarios till they had to shoot. I have also been in that place too on 2 separate occasions. Good shooters are very aware of where the trigger breaks on a gun they spend time behind.

The stock trigger is perfectly usable as is. My preference is stock connecter with a NY-1 . *To me* :has a better feel .

Biggfoot44 said:

The stock trigger is perfectly usable as is. My preference is stock connecter with a NY-1 . *To me* :has a better feel .

Click to expand...

This is how I developed my preferred Glock Trigger work (spending time behind NY triggered Glocks) IMHO, a NY spring is also more reliable. The factory Glock trigger spring does break on the looped ends where the NY has a coil spring that wont do that.

joppaj said:

There is no reason for. 3.5lb trigger in a defensively pistol. .

Click to expand...

My Sig 1911 would disagree with this statement At least I think that's where Chad has it at. Maybe little less? Damn it's sweet. Damn

A 3.5 lb connector will reduce the weight of the trigger pull but it will not bring the weight down to 3.5 lb. I have a Ghost 3.5 lb connector in my Glock 17 that I use for IDPA and USPSA and I have it in there mainly because it smooths the trigger pull not because it's lighter. (I've had other competitive shooters complain about how heavy my trigger is.)

On the Glock 19 that I use for my home gun I didn't touch any of the trigger components at all. My groups are a bit larger when compared to the 17 because of this but only marginally so and more than acceptable to me for a self defense gun.

I'd see if you know anyone with a 3.5# trigger, shoot it, see which you prefer and which you shoot better with. To me triggers can be a highly personal choice, without any one trigger being universally better for everyone. I personally introduce new shooters to firearms with triggers at about 5 lb or heavier (especially the ones who haven't learned good trigger discipline and have to be reminded not to rest their finger inside the trigger guard when not shooting), but IMO experienced shooters with good fundamentals can be just as proficient with a 3.5 lb trigger as a 5.5 lb trigger or a 7.5 lb trigger.

Many folks here say a 3.5# trigger is not appropriate for CCW. I left mine stock. shoots just fine.

Clandestine has very good advice on what makes a good GLOCK trigger.

Before all other factors improved tactility is most important to a trigger job, each stage of pull should have a distinct and consistent feel. A smooth pull helps limit friction and "grittiness" that take away from the feel of the break and reset. A lighter pull can be faster as Blaster said, and can help reduce imperfect trigger control, but can also take away from the distinct feel when the trigger is staged and ready to break. The overtravel should be minimal, partially because it stops trigger movement as the pistol fires, and partially because it reduces the reset distance for faster followup shots. Above all else in a defensive pistol it should be reliable, with enough clearance to allow a little dirt or fouling without causing a failure.

I like the 2 stage feel of the glock, basically a short, crisp 5# trigger with a short distinct reset that is at the end of the longer lighter takeup needed to deactivate the passive safeties. It's similar to 2 stage rifle triggers, where a light 3# trigger may not be mechanically safe, or may not be allowed by competition rules, but by having a 2# takeup stage, the brake can have a 3# feel while breaking at 5#, and as a bonus it keeps your finger in contact with the trigger if you move a little past the reset distance.

I carry my G30SF and G20SF, so the work has to be reliable. I radius and polish the stock safety button, stone and polish it's mating surface on the trigger bar, this removes most of the grit in the takeup, and you no longer feel the slight clunk as the bar pushes the button clear of the striker channel. Polish most of the trigger bar, and stock connector, smooths out the entire pull/reset, reduces pull weight a little from less friction. Add a heavier trigger spring, to reduce the takeup weight, staging, and breaking the 5# break feels more distinct at the end of a 2# takup instead of a 3# takeup. Stone and square the sear tab and striker tab faces, basically removing machining marks with a fine grit stone, then using a sharpie mark to make sure the tabs are engaging across the entire surface width. Finally file and polish the end of the trigger bar to reduce overtravel and reset, this takes patience and skill, go too far or change the profile and the pistol won't fire, shouldn't be 0 overtravel, needs a little room to stay reliable, but reducing it from the stock .060" or so to a shorter .030" keeps the pistol reliable and is a noticeable improvement. Being GLOCK trigger bars are fairly cheap, especially compared to aftermarket parts, it's easy to replace it if you want to go back to stock, or mess something up.

Sling Blade said:

Reading this just made me examine my G30. It's factory, and seems okay to me.

Then again, I'm far from a gunsmith.

I have a feeling the OP may be a bit confused by all the tacticool fellers that brag about their customized triggers as if that alone makes one a better shooter.

Click to expand...

as the OP.. i should have been more clear.

i dont like the gritty feel, my kahr. had a long heavy but smooth as a glass trigger.
reset im ok with. ....
i want it smoother im ok with the 2stages..

while a trigger alone does not make one a better shooter .. a lighter pull does decrease the chance of pulling off target.. ( tell me im wrong and ill put my 10/22 up against any stock one.) i have a kidd trigger setup in there that i can lighten all the way to 1.25 lbs. single stage.. currently set for 3.5lbs i closed my groups up by HALF! at 50yards with a better trigger.. that said NOTHING replaces skill/ and proper trigger control. this thread seemed to jump the shark. i wanted something with a decent trigger, safe and higher cap. for my backpacking/camping.. .. the thought seems to be if im going to carry it DO NOT mess with the trigger. .. but for competing go for it. .. that is all I HAVE SPOKE!

I use a 3.5# connector with the 8# spring. It still gives an approximately 5# pull, but breaks a little more crisply.

If you ever want to shoot my 17 (glockworx connector and full spring kit), 19 (just glockworx connector), or 34 (vanek classic kit) I'm sure we could work something out.