First SKS - Lubrication question.....

bkuether · Dec 13, 2016

Got my first SKS from Duffy's. :thumbsup:

Decided to move this question out of their thread.

I took the rifle apart down to the bolt, and took out the pin for cleaning.

Need some guidance on the lubrication points. There aren't many videos. My main question is around the piston and rod, and the firing pin.

Oil the trigger friction points and springs.
Light oil on the firing pin.
Light coating of oil on the bolt assembly and friction points
Oil on the rails, where bolt rides
?? Light oil or CLP on the op rod and spring ??
?? What if any lubrication on the piston ??

What are the recommended lubrication (or NO lubrication) points on the op rod assembly and piston?

Also let me know if I missed any...

Thanks in advance, will post up pics after I take it apart again for lubrication.

Melnic · Dec 13, 2016

With an SKS, your wealth of knoweldge is in the C&R forum.
You will get lots of different answers.

I can't recall exactly what I did on both of mine. I think it was pretty close to what you have there.
I think I used clear silicone grease on my bolt where it rides and on the spring. (I think I recall that).
On the internal piston with the spring, I think I put a light coat of thin grease also.

I have a Chinese and Sino/Soviet Ghost and both have over 1000 rounds of cheap ammo w/o a hickkup

Look at this site though:
http://www.yooperj.com/SKS.htm

EKing · Dec 13, 2016

On my Yugo, I also had to remove the gas regulator valve to remove the preservative gunk (cosmolene, whatever). Once you have the top handguard and piston off, move the pushbutton selector back around to remove the small metal piece.
It's been a few years and I'm going off memory here, but I do remember my rifle was a single shot until I got all, and I mean all of the cosmolene off.

fred333 · Dec 13, 2016

This outta help...

bkuether · Dec 13, 2016

fred333 said:
This outta help...

Hi Fred,

Glad to see you back and posting! Hope all is well.

I did watch that, and they say nothing about the piston or op rod. Maybe just doesn't need lube, or lube is detrimental?

At the very least I left a light coating of Balistol. Guess will see what happens after that.

bkuether · Dec 13, 2016

Update:

Took the SKS out for a live function check at AGC.

25 rounds, mixed ball and HP.

Both types chambered and fired.

No slam fires.

Nice smooth recoil.

I think I am REALLY going to like this gun...... :party29:

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand............ Here is your picture....... Sorry forgot my foot....

iH8DemLibz · Dec 13, 2016

Dats a purdy one.

If you're looking for indoor ammo, SGAmmo has cases of Yugo stuff that a magnet won't stick to.

gmharle · Dec 15, 2016

Look into the Murrays replacement firing pin as a nice upgrade to the original.

Sirex · Dec 16, 2016

Looks nice. I love my Yugo SKS. I lube the rails with a little motor oil. I generally don't take the firing pin out to clean it, but I spray a tad of carb cleaner down into the pin and let it soak in for a while, then rinse with brake cleaner. As long as when I shake the bolt and it rattles, I am happy. I wouldn't go changing the firing pin unless you have a problem. If your has the gas shutoff valve like mine (which I love), I would clean the gas valve and port well. I use Ballistol on that. If you take care of it, the SKS should last you a long time. The SKS is probably my favorite semi auto rifle.

bkuether · Dec 16, 2016

Sirex said:
Looks nice. I love my Yugo SKS. I lube the rails with a little motor oil. I generally don't take the firing pin out to clean it, but I spray a tad of carb cleaner down into the pin and let it soak in for a while, then rinse with brake cleaner. As long as when I shake the bolt and it rattles, I am happy. I wouldn't go changing the firing pin unless you have a problem. If your has the gas shutoff valve like mine (which I love), I would clean the gas valve and port well. I use Ballistol on that. If you take care of it, the SKS should last you a long time. The SKS is probably my favorite semi auto rifle.

Yeah I have that funky fresh cool gas port as well. Everyone said "Clean that out otherwise you will have a single shot rifle" Taking it off made that easy.

I was very surprised by the recoil. I guess the longer barrel makes a huge difference.

I definitely made sure the pin was loose. I don't need a slam fire, and I am not going to mess with it.

I am not going to put any corrosive stuff through it, so like you said, it should last for years.... Thanks for the response!

Half-cocked · Dec 16, 2016

My advice on the firing pin and firing pin channel is no oil, beyond coating and then wiping clean completely so nothing but a molecules-thick coating remains as corrosion protection. Any actual liquid oil in there is likely to attract and eventually gum up with burnt powder residue.

Also, I like to give the bolt the shake/rattle test every time I go to the range, just to make sure the FP's loose.

These are my habits and opinions, based on reading advice from other SKS experts with more experience than me; your mileage may vary, IANAG, caveat emptor, e pluribus unum, etc.

fred333 · Dec 16, 2016

bkuether said:
I did watch that, and they say nothing about the piston or op rod. Maybe just doesn't need lube, or lube is detrimental?
At the very least I left a light coating of Balistol. Guess will see what happens after that.

I would've done the same thing (a light coating of oil).
Unless otherwise specified, I coat all metal parts of every firearm with a light film of oil (most of the time, I use Breakfree CLP, but Ballistol's very good, too) to keep them from rusting. Where metal slides against metal, I generally apply a light coating of lithium-based grease (e.g., Lubriplate or just lithium from the auto parts store....functionally, the same thing).

Unless it's not easily removed (e.g., pinned-in), I always remove firing pins and clean both the pin and its channel, wiping the pin with an oil-moistened (not soaked) cloth before reassembly. I think having too much oil on the pin or in its channel causes dust/debris accumulation, but having no oil there increases the risk of corrosion/sticking firing pin.

clandestine · Dec 16, 2016

IMO the firing pin needs to be removed. Cosmoline wont come out of the firing pin channel, even with soaking. It needs to be machanically removed. The firing pin retainer can be hard to remove without a solid punch, bench, and heavy hammer.

I suggest you leave the factory firing pin in the gun. I have seen too many issues with aftermarket spring loaded firing pins. While I dont do SKS or AKMs anymore, I have a ton of experience with them. I have seen 3 so far that blew up because the spring allowed the firing pin to get stuck forward.

Lube the thing with motor oil and grease the locking points on the bolt and carrier.

If you remove the cosmoline properly, there is no concerns about oil getting into the firing pin channel. Lots of lube allows the fouling to get displaced. IMO, light lube is worthless beyond corrosion protection.

bkuether · Dec 16, 2016

clandestine said:
IMO the firing pin needs to be removed. Cosmoline wont come out of the firing pin channel, even with soaking. It needs to be machanically removed. The firing pin retainer can be hard to remove without a solid punch, bench, and heavy hammer.

I suggest you leave the factory firing pin in the gun. I have seen too many issues with aftermarket spring loaded firing pins. While I dont do SKS or AKMs anymore, I have a ton of experience with them. I have seen 3 so far that blew up because the spring allowed the firing pin to get stuck forward.

Lube the thing with motor oil and grease the locking points on the bolt and carrier.

If you remove the cosmoline properly, there is no concerns about oil getting into the firing pin channel. Lots of lube allows the fouling to get displaced. IMO, light lube is worthless beyond corrosion protection.

Agreed. I removed the pin, and cleaned out the channel with mineral spirits followed by Balistol.

That bad boy is rattlin' around in there nicely. Used the "Chad guide to lubrication" stolen from my AR learnings, I have applied grease to my combloc toys. Specifically against the major metal on metal surfaces. Unfortunately, I get a face full of grease when I fire them. (I am left handed and shoot left handed. Hey it is how God made me....

) I wanted to use grease, however I don't want it on my face. May try the teflon stuff Fred suggested. The oil works for now, using a thicker heavier grade. NOT doing a full dip of the carrier.

But that is working well for my ARs, which by the way, send their love.....

clandestine · Dec 16, 2016

bkuether said:
Agreed. I removed the pin, and cleaned out the channel with mineral spirits followed by Balistol.

That bad boy is rattlin' around in there nicely. Used the "Chad guide to lubrication" stolen from my AR learnings, I have applied grease to my combloc toys. Specifically against the major metal on metal surfaces. Unfortunately, I get a face full of grease when I fire them. (I am left handed and shoot left handed. Hey it is how God made me.... ) I wanted to use grease, however I don't want it on my face. May try the teflon stuff Fred suggested. The oil works for now, using a thicker heavier grade. NOT doing a full dip of the carrier. But that is working well for my ARs, which by the way, send their love.....

Thanks my friend.

Soulds like you are taking good care of those merican and commie guns.

bkuether · Dec 16, 2016

clandestine said:
Thanks my friend.

Soulds like you are taking good care of those merican and commie guns.

Aaaaaaaaand not freaking cleaning them frequently!!!!!! Best advise I ever got!!!!!!

First SKS - Lubrication question.....

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