Trigger Job

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  • Hippy

    Active Member
    Mar 11, 2008
    367
    Frostburg Md
    Anyone recommend a good "Smith for a trigger job on a 1911 and what minimum weight of pull can be achieved ?

    Thanx,
    Jim
     

    theBIGone2087

    Point-of-Aim Productions
    Aug 15, 2010
    256
    Laurel, MD
    I used Terry Gardner out if Odgen, UT (yes, the nutnfancy favorite) and he did a great job on my Delta Elite. Mine is set at about 3.5lbs but if I could go back I'd do a 4-4.5lb trigger.
     

    johnnyb2

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 3, 2012
    1,317
    Carroll County
    Check out a TRIGGER KIT from Cylinder and Slide. They have them at Brownells. Its a drop in kit of parts, for 3.5 4 4.5lb pull, and you can do it yourself if, your handy and know how to TOTALLY STRIP a 1911. No smithing needed...
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,585
    Harford County, Maryland
    Those kits have had good feedback in the 1911forum and generally they are tried in a S70 frame before they are packaged. May be cost effective considering the labor and parts required for a smith to do a trigger job. But it should still be checked by someone who knows a 1911 after you install the parts, do the function and safety checks.

    Typically, pulls less than 3.5 pounds are not recommended on general purpose 1911's. Notice virtually all the custom gun shops such as Wilson, Baer, Brown, Nighthawk don't set pulls less than that. You'll be real happy with a pull between 3.5 and 4.0 pounds if the pull quality is good. If you are setting up a defensive pistol you may want to keep it between 4.25 and 5.0 pounds of pull. I have one at 4.5 pounds and you would swear it was 3.5 to 3.75 pounds because the pull quality is so good.

    There are lots of good smiths out there, get feedback before you send and deliver your pistol. Jack Mortimer in Havre de Grace does nice triggers and so does Bagersmith Gunworks.
     

    w2kbr

    MSI EM, NRA LM, SAF, AAFG
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 13, 2009
    1,137
    Severn 21144
    On 1911's...call John Carduner(listed in IP section) working out of FREESTATE Range,
    White Marsh area....

    R
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,585
    Harford County, Maryland
    theBIGone2087, you can get a sear spring and set it up for the pull weight you want. Once the action geometry is correct, and yours is from the work done to it, the pull weight is affected by the left two leaves of that spring. Not drop in but quite doable. Then keep the present spring to bring it back to the present pull weight.
     

    glennk64

    Member
    May 19, 2011
    4
    Baltimore
    Anyone recommend a good "Smith for a trigger job on a 1911 and what minimum weight of pull can be achieved ?

    Thanx,
    Jim

    Since you are in Frostburg, you can try,

    Moore's Gun Shop
    13124 Warrior Ave, Cumberland, MD ‎
    (301) 729-2604

    I have never dealt with them, but my uncle who lives in LaVale has.
     

    Mr. Ed

    This IS my Happy Face
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 8, 2009
    7,919
    Edgewater
    On 1911's...call John Carduner(listed in IP section) working out of FREESTATE Range,
    White Marsh area....

    R

    +1000

    John is a great guy, a true enthusiast, and worked magic on three of my toys. 1911s are his favorites, too :thumbsup:
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Sear spring is NOT the only thing that affects pull weight. Sear engagement depth and sear and hammer notch polish, trigger polish (sides where they ride in the frame and the back where it contacts the sear), also the hammer spring weight.

    Just lightening the sear spring can cause you gun to go full auto.
     

    byf43

    SCSC Life/NRA Patron Life
    Sear spring is NOT the only thing that affects pull weight. Sear engagement depth and sear and hammer notch polish, trigger polish (sides where they ride in the frame and the back where it contacts the sear), also the hammer spring weight.

    Just lightening the sear spring can cause you gun to go full auto.


    ^^^Great post!!


    Mainspring tension on the strut and hammer!!!

    All of the above parts that Pinecone listed work together, to create the trigger pull, and FELT trigger pull.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,585
    Harford County, Maryland
    There was mo mention indicating the sear was the only thing affecting pull weight and quality. We could also discuss hook face angle and how it is located relative to the hammer pin bore center, sear primary and secondary angle/depth and so on. The mainspring only contributes about 1 1/4 pounds of pull, give or take an ounce or two, on a properly done 1911 trigger. The rest of the tension is set using the left two leaves of the sear spring. theBIGone2087 stated he had the trigger work done. At this point we can assess as proper since he hasn't had any problems. Therefore he would set to desired pull weight using the sear spring original or replacement sear spring. After the pistol passes all the attendant safety checks it would be deemed safe to shoot once it safely operates after a couple one round mag tests.
     

    pleasant1911

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 12, 2012
    10,351
    Trigger job on 1911 can be done yourself, if you are pretty handy. a trigger job does not necessarily mean a lighter pull on the weight, but it could also mean a smoother pull too. a trigger job is not hard to do, you just got to research, JK's 1911 manual helps... youtube helps too. researching sear angles, and other sear stuff, and what sear jig you are going to use. the only down side to doing it yourself is you need stones, and sear jigs, and some varieties of wet sandpaper, but if you have more than one 1911, or plan to have many 1911, or just a huge 1911 fan like me, (the only handguns I'll buy for many years), sear jig and stones and stuff should be no biggie. you ll spend like 60-80 bucks for it. If you do it yourself, I would recomment you go get the C&S trigger pull kit, you can find it for 100. keep your OEM parts aside, and tweek the pull kit. so you can change back.

    or if you have an old sear, and round the sear out with a fine stone, so it will be rounded. Put it on a gold dollar and make sure the tip of the sear is angled with the outside of the coin, and if its looks like it runs witht eh outside, put it in the gun and see if your pull is a "rolling" type.(its not exact, thats how the TR sear jig is in theory)
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    There was mo mention indicating the sear was the only thing affecting pull weight and quality. We could also discuss hook face angle and how it is located relative to the hammer pin bore center, sear primary and secondary angle/depth and so on. The mainspring only contributes about 1 1/4 pounds of pull, give or take an ounce or two, on a properly done 1911 trigger. The rest of the tension is set using the left two leaves of the sear spring. theBIGone2087 stated he had the trigger work done. At this point we can assess as proper since he hasn't had any problems. Therefore he would set to desired pull weight using the sear spring original or replacement sear spring. After the pistol passes all the attendant safety checks it would be deemed safe to shoot once it safely operates after a couple one round mag tests.

    theBIGone2087, you can get a sear spring and set it up for the pull weight you want.

    And 1.25 pounds on a 4.5 pound trigger is almost 1/3 of the pull weight.

    And remember, not everyone reading here understands. From what you said earlier, someone could misunderstand and try to take a 6 pound trigger to 3 pounds just by adjusting the sear spring. And that would be ugly.

    And if the pistolhas had trigger work done to it, then take it back to who did the trigger and have them fix it.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,585
    Harford County, Maryland
    I responded to someone wanting to lighten an already properly performed trigger. Then others interjected the lockwork had to be honed, and to change the mainspring. Both posts had nothing to do with the post I responded to.
    I stated in the post the sear spring had to be set up. Therefore, the poster would need to find how to do it and get some informed coaching. He would have found it here or on another sight.
    What he got was unnecessary interjection out of context which derailed any reasonable discussion on the subject and his learning.
    As I have observed, we'll need to leave the level of discussion on this site to those who impose their judgement upon us.
     

    stu929

    M1 Addict
    Jan 2, 2012
    6,605
    Hagerstown
    I picked up a C&S kit and I'm extremely happy I dont have a guage but when compared to my other triggers I would guess its in the #4 lb range when before it was probably 8-9+.

    Very crisp and easy to install. Still want to check the total poundage though.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,585
    Harford County, Maryland
    You can check the pull weight by making a trigger hook and using bullets an old rag. That is how I did it before getting my pull gauges. Same way NRA BE triggers are checked, except they use calibrated weights adapted to a trigger hook.
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,032
    Elkton, MD
    Magnumite is not wrong. He gave a simple answer to a simple question. Once others tried to make more of what he said he elaborated correctly again.
     

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