Aussie SMLE No1 MkIII* discovery and refurb

Whitey · Feb 17, 2016

Welp I've just been convinced I need some headspace gauges! Never had an issue with a Mauser and I've shot a bunch of mine. I can't remember the last time I've shot one of my Enfields. Just bought another Enfield recently, but forgot to ask if they had headspaced it.

Ranchero50 · Feb 18, 2016

OK, spent some time this evening and using the SAAMI prints I made a pair of head space gauges. One at .064" (minimum )and the other at .070" (field limit). The tools were pretty easy to make since only the rim set the head space and not how the cartridge taper fit in the chamber.

The .064" in place. It locked in nicely as I expected it to.

The .070" didn't. Notice the gap between the handle and the receiver band. (yeah, that's the bedspread and note the clean laundry that I'm catching grief over because I'm tinkering with guns where the spousal unit wants to fold clothes)

Now there's about a dozen attempts to measure the head space difference between the handle lifted as shown above and locked completely with taking pictures. Yep, that's my right foot trying to hold the rifle still. Youngest son had the rifle by the butt stock and was 'helping'. Dial is set to .000" with the .070" tool in place.

Hard to read but without the tool in place the bolt head moved forward @.003-.004" which I think explains why the shops commercial .067" gauge failed the head space test. I did check it a bunch of times in different ways so I'm pretty confident I do not have a major head space problem. Maybe I'll make an .068" one tomorrow and see how it fits.

Interestingly enough I only have a .001" let off at full locked. I expected it to be a bit more on a rifle that had been fired a lot from the bolt lugs hammering into the receiver. Really makes me wonder how many rounds have been through this rifle and what it's service history was.

Regardless, I feel much better. :party29:

mawkie · Feb 19, 2016

I perform my HS test differently. First I strip the bolt of the FP and extractor. Then attempt to close on a NO GO or Field gauge, looking to see/feel if the bolt handle drops all the way. If all goes well you will not be able to close the bolt completely. Sometimes it's very difficult to tell if the bolt handle is down all the way and removing the resistance of the FP spring and extractor makes it easier to feel the bolt seating against the gauge.
I know it's a pain to strip and reassemble the bolt on a SMLE (esp the extractor spring) but it's worth the time to do. Makes the job of checking HS much easier.

Ranchero50 · Feb 21, 2016

Thanks. Using the dial indicator was a challenge. Reading one of Peter Laidler's white papers is interesting in that the military spec was .074" and they used 1/2" diameter discs to check it.

http://photos.imageevent.com/badger...eeenfieldforums/Cartridge Headspace _CHS_.pdf

Went to the Frederick show this morning and picked up a repro tan sling, 2 stripper clips and 60 rounds of PPU SMLE food.

I'm still curious about the rifles history and why it doesn't have any sold out of service markings other than the DP mark (which I'm pretty sure is post '45 rebuild how it's stamped through the phosphate coating). I'm still trying to find out how the rifles were sold out of the service and if there were any specifications for them before being processed.

Aussie SMLE No1 MkIII* discovery and refurb

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