Polymer80: PF940V2, PF940C, PF940SC: how many rounds have you put down the tube?

Have a PF940C with all additional parts that are Glock OEM. I've put approx, 600 rounds through it. It's accuracy is as good as my other G-19 and all of it's parts appear as tight as the day I assembled it except for an instance today at the range. After 50 rounds or so the slide locked back on an empty mag and when I inserted a fresh magazine and pulled back on the slide to chamber the first round it wouldn't go forward. The slide stop was stuck in the up position and it's spring didn't have enough effort to drop the slide stop. What happen was the trigger pin had walked to the right side of the frame enough to bind the slide stop from moving freely. The trigger pin can't come out as it is captured by it's groove in the slide stop but there was enough pressure against it to bind the slide stop.
I tapped the trigger pin back to the left to free the slide stop and fired an additional 50 rds with out the slide stop sticking; but what I did notice was that the trigger pin had drifted to the right again. I'm going to contact Ploymer80 to see what they have to say about this occurrence.

I've got to ask... you do have the slide stop spring below the locking block pin, right?

I've put at least a couple hundred through my PF940C, and there's not even a hint of the trigger pin moving.

I have about 400 though my PF940C. Problem free after the first 50. I'd ask if you used a drill press and ran the drill all the way threw? That will cause pins to walk. The polymer80 design has that imperfect alignment as a way to avoid pin walk.

PF940V1.5 maybe about 1000 rounds so far. It doesn’t like Winchester or Wolf steel where it’ll light strike or not go fully in to battery about 1 in 30 rounds. It seems to feed everything else just fine (haven’t tried any other steel case other than Wolf). Had early teething issues there were my fault on assembly and the barrel hood and slide needed some fitment work.

Racer Doug14 said:

I have about 400 though my PF940C. Problem free after the first 50. I'd ask if you used a drill press and ran the drill all the way threw? That will cause pins to walk. The polymer80 design has that imperfect alignment as a way to avoid pin walk.

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Yeah, I accidently did that with the locking block pin before I realized I shouldn’t drill all the way through. Fortunately it only looks ugly, function is fine and the locking block and trigger pins are in there real solid.

erwos said:

I've got to ask... you do have the slide stop spring below the locking block pin, right?

I've put at least a couple hundred through my PF940C, and there's not even a hint of the trigger pin moving.

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Yes slide stop spring is below locking block pin.

Racer Doug14 said:

I have about 400 though my PF940C. Problem free after the first 50. I'd ask if you used a drill press and ran the drill all the way threw? That will cause pins to walk. The polymer80 design has that imperfect alignment as a way to avoid pin walk.

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No, I followed instructions and drilled holes from each side. It also occurred to me that slight misalignment of holes would help hold the pins in place by creating more friction against the pin.
Also, what I noticed after the slide stop was bound was that the trigger pin was not centered in the frame as originally installed. The pin was not so loose that it could be simply pushed back with a pin punch but had to be driven back. On factory Glocks I own the trigger pins can be removed by simply pushing the trigger pin with a pin punch (after you manipulate the hole in the slide stop). So I'm guessing in a factory Glock if the trigger pin is not held fast it can float to the extent allowed by the groove in the trigger pin. But I'm guessing with the tightness of the trigger pin in a Polymer80 if the repeated torque of recoil moved the trigger pin to the right the tightness of it's mounting hole held it fast against the slide stop.

I guess it is theoretically possible you had a bad trigger pin, but that would be surprising. You could always make sure the shape of the slide release spring is "correct" and putting correct leverage on the pin/lever, too. I did have one that kinda got out of shape once.

I have built both a PF940v1.5 and a 2.0 and have had no problems with either of them. I can push the pins in and out with a Glock tool and they do not move when firing. Originally the holes were so tight that they required a little persuasion with a small hammer. I simply took the drill bit provided for the holes and reamed the holes using only my hand until it would go through both sides of the frame. I then removed the bit and have been able to push the pins in and out normally ever since.

I have about 400 rounds through the v1.5 and only around 200 through the v2.0. Both seem to eat anything I feed them in 115 or 124 grains, even steel cased.

I’m not as impressed with Poly80 stuff. Factory Glocks are a million times better IMHO. I’ve made two Poly80 G19 clones and they’re both jam-o-matics. The best is when the pins walk out.

Alphabrew said:

I’m not as impressed with Poly80 stuff. Factory Glocks are a million times better IMHO. I’ve made two Poly80 G19 clones and they’re both jam-o-matics. The best is when the pins walk out.

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If you didn't really screw up the hole, some fingernail polish might be all you need.

I built a PF940SC using all OEM parts. I had some issues with the slide not going into battery initially but some additional file work on the U shaped barrel block and it now runs flawlessly. I have about 500 rounds through it in various grains / manufacturers and not a single issue so far. No issues with OEM, ETS or Magpul mags either.

Alphabrew said:

I’m not as impressed with Poly80 stuff. Factory Glocks are a million times better IMHO. I’ve made two Poly80 G19 clones and they’re both jam-o-matics. The best is when the pins walk out.

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Well, your the factory, R&D and QC. So, it's all your fault.

Hehehe.

JK.

Lucca1 said:

I built a PF940SC using all OEM parts. I had some issues with the slide not going into battery initially but some additional file work on the U shaped barrel block and it now runs flawlessly. I have about 500 rounds through it in various grains / manufacturers and not a single issue so far. No issues with OEM, ETS or Magpul mags either.

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PF940SC is the next one on my list once Brownells releases the slides. Glad to hear it worked OK for you.

GuitarmanNick said:

I have built both a PF940v1.5 and a 2.0 and have had no problems with either of them. I can push the pins in and out with a Glock tool and they do not move when firing. Originally the holes were so tight that they required a little persuasion with a small hammer. I simply took the drill bit provided for the holes and reamed the holes using only my hand until it would go through both sides of the frame. I then removed the bit and have been able to push the pins in and out normally ever since.

I have about 400 rounds through the v1.5 and only around 200 through the v2.0. Both seem to eat anything I feed them in 115 or 124 grains, even steel cased.

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Actually i believe you have hit the real issue. The trigger pin in my PF940C didn't escape the hold by the slide release it moved just enough to bind the slide release so the spring lacked sufficient power to move the slide release.
The groove in the trigger pin has enough play in it to be able to move left or right a small amount and still have a properly install slide release to work.
I have a number if factory Glocks (probably to many) and upon closer examination of the trigger pins installed in the frame -- in most cases the pin looks like it is to the right of the frame (in other words the slide release is against the left shoulder of the trigger pin groove). The trigger pin hole in the factory Glock frame being loose enough to easily push the trigger pin out doesn't hold the pin tightly enough to be stuck to the right side to bind the slide release.
I'm guessing the torque effect upon firing with the ejection port on the right side of the gun and inertia of the trigger pin in the frame tends to move the trigger pin to the right to the extent it can move through the slide release hole. Maybe the solution is to open up the the trigger pin hole slightly (since the trigger pin can't escape) to prevent it from being stuck in one direction or the other by an extremely tight frame hole.
As a side note none of the other pins in this Polymer or any other of my builds appears to have moved.
Anyway before I do anything I forwarded a ticket on Ploymer80's service e-mail to see what they say. In my experience Polymer80 has had great customer service with my past inquiries.

Be careful not to force the pin through the slide release. My v1.5 was a little tight when I first assembled it until I removed a couple of small burrs from inside of the hole. I may have put them there initially when trying to insert the pin. I little work inside the hole with some 2000 grit Emory paper took care of the issue. I don't think they have been hardened and therefore are easily damaged if you force things.

When building the v2.0, I took more care during assembly and avoided this problem.

Alphabrew said:

I’m not as impressed with Poly80 stuff. Factory Glocks are a million times better IMHO. I’ve made two Poly80 G19 clones and they’re both jam-o-matics. The best is when the pins walk out.

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I agree with you that an OEM frame is way better. The reason why I’m interested however, is so that I can have a handgun in his state without having to register it. I brought my Glock 19 slide with me when I moved for when I eventually stop being lazy and actually order a polymer80 frame and mill it out. Next on my list is the 80% p320 FCU. I have both a P320 X5 and a RX out of state, and would love to bring the frames and slides here.

I love the p80 frame. I gambled on it when I ordered it. I hate the glock feel. Just doesn't work for me. Build quality is not comparable, obviously, on complete pistols. The frame on it's own, is way different. The actual polymer is probably not very different.

Alphabrew said:

I’m not as impressed with Poly80 stuff. Factory Glocks are a million times better IMHO. I’ve made two Poly80 G19 clones and they’re both jam-o-matics. The best is when the pins walk out.

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These aren't ARs. You have to hand fit them if you want them to work. A major cause of jamming is the U channel not having enough clearance for the recoil spring to function properly. As someone said you're the builder so if it has problems you need to take it apart and find out what you need to do to make it run right.

Build 1 - V2 9mm - 200rds+ 1st live fire test all OEM parts
Not one issue, fell in love, wifey had part in some of those rounds and also now needed one.

Added vickers slide stop, mag release, and overwatch trigger, 50 some rounds with my father testing, then another 100+ with wife at range date night, all ran perfectly.

Added Suarez slide with OEM internals and barrel along with NDZ steel rod has not been live fired yet.

Disclaimer: Before live fire had return to battery issues that were resolved by filing down locking block rails. Locking block was a mother to get in and did not sit flush which caused the need for filing.

Build 2 - C in .40 - 200+ 1st and only go with out issues, all OEM other then vickers mag release. Went together without any hassle, OEM lightly used slide.

Build 3 - C 9mm - Not yet tested, no issues going together, mostly OEM other then overwatch trigger, ghost connector, and a blacklist barrel on its way. Trigger has a bur near the rear rail that I need to work on causing a slight click before hitting wall.

Build 4 - V2 9mm - Not tested and was a muthafuk to get built. Locking block didn’t want to play nice and ended up cracking when trying to force it in. Polymer80 took care of it and ran into the same issue on the new one leading me to believe that the locking block was the problem. A good bit of dremel work and was finally able to get it together.

Alpha wolf slide with OEM internals and barrel, OEM LPK with Apex trigger. Home testing shows no signs of issues.

Build 5 - V2 9mm - Recently built ready mod that got the vickers slide used on the 1st build and OEM everything else. Going to be my 1st go with stippling and won’t be tested until completed. Had no issues going together but I beveled the rear edges of the front locking block before even attempting to install.

I’m not at a round count that I would trust my life on any of my builds but the .40 has the potential. My carry M&P 9c had well over 500rds before it was by my side. The subbie had the same treatment before becoming my HD and then had to go back for a barrel replacement and now has to start over.

Wife’s carry is a PPS which reviews are all over the place with but we have well over 700rds through without one issue and is actually the only single stack I’ve have shot worth a dam.

PPQs are highly rated reliable yet I’ve had minor issues with mine FTF and not RTB. Still an awesome gun but if it went down, it wouldn’t be the first I’d grab.

Most of the issues I’ve heard about with p80s where the builders fault or caused by aftermarket parts. The u channel has to be done right along with drilling holes. There are a lot of simple things that get over looked when people build these then they come on line and complain without manning up that they did something wrong.