Recommend a Punch for Castle Nut Staking that Doesn't Suck

DutchV said:

You might want to track down a copy of the 23&P field manual. It's fairly easy to find. Staking the castle nut, in two places, is advised.

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Bountied said:

Next thread, how to un-stake your staked castle nut because you want to. A.) change your buffer tube, B.) add a super cool one point sling plate thing, C.) add some fancy new rear takedown pin because your old one sticks, D.) convert your pistol to a rifle, E.) start over from a stripped lower because you effed up F.) your buffer spring retainer pin broke and the spring went flying somewhere and you need to replace it, G.) you want to swap your mil-spec $200 stock to something that has a commercial buffer tube...

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Bountied said:

Next thread, how to un-stake your staked castle nut because you want to. A.) change your buffer tube, B.) add a super cool one point sling plate thing, C.) add some fancy new rear takedown pin because your old one sticks, D.) convert your pistol to a rifle, E.) start over from a stripped lower because you effed up F.) your buffer spring retainer pin broke and the spring went flying somewhere and you need to replace it, G.) you want to swap your mil-spec $200 stock to something that has a commercial buffer tube...

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John from MD said:

Dremel is your friend.

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DutchV said:

You'd grab it with an armorer's wrench and loosen. It's not all that tight.

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Bountied said:

Then why stake it?

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DutchV said:

Now you're just trolling.

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Bountied said:

Then you'll need a new castle nut. I have a close relationship with mine and don't want them to end up in the trash.

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Bountied said:

I agree with what he says in the video. I am a youtube gunsmith and a lazy brain. I don't stake my castle nuts because I don't want to. It's not a compelling argument but neither is saying that because most serious gun builders do it so you should to.

If it makes you feel better then stake it. Not trolling just saying.

With that said if your nut does back off you can cause serious damage to your buffer extension. If the tube rotates the pin on the end plate can ruin the threads.

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Bountied said:

Just don't stake your castle nut. I don't and none of them have ever moved.

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John from MD said:

I stake mine the old fashioned way, with a hammer and center punch. No problemo.

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Bountied said:

Next thread, how to un-stake your staked castle nut because you want to. A.) change your buffer tube, B.) add a super cool one point sling plate thing, C.) add some fancy new rear takedown pin because your old one sticks, D.) convert your pistol to a rifle, E.) start over from a stripped lower because you effed up F.) your buffer spring retainer pin broke and the spring went flying somewhere and you need to replace it, G.) you want to swap your mil-spec $200 stock to something that has a commercial buffer tube...

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lazarus said:

Me neither. My HD gun I just have a tiny dab of pink locktite on there for just a tiny bit of extra holding. But none of my others have ever backed loose in hundreds to thousands of rounds. I sure would something that's going to see thousands upon thousands of rounds and service use where it might not see an armorer or attentive soldier checking it over for months or years and getting loose in the field is going to SUCK. But I don't really have to worry about that. So I don't stake it (gas keys on the other hand...)

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Bountied said:

Next thread, how to un-stake your staked castle nut because you want to. A.) change your buffer tube, B.) add a super cool one point sling plate thing, C.) add some fancy new rear takedown pin because your old one sticks, D.) convert your pistol to a rifle, E.) start over from a stripped lower because you effed up F.) your buffer spring retainer pin broke and the spring went flying somewhere and you need to replace it, G.) you want to swap your mil-spec $200 stock to something that has a commercial buffer tube...

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teratos said:

They come right off with a wrench and a strong elbow.

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Rambler said:

https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R00-1-Hammerless-Double/dp/B000PSFUO8/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=Spring+Tools&qid=1593629711&sr=8-8


Try the unusually named "2 bit snapper".
It is asymmetric; use the heavy end to hit the light end for a harder punch. Use the light to hit the heavy for a lighter punch.
I have used these for machine shop work for years as they tend to stay put better than the autopunches.

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