I have a cheap crap center punch for staking my castle nut; and it sucks!! What's a good brand to buy?
[EDIT] Automatic center punch that is
[EDIT] Automatic center punch that is
Recommend a Punch for Castle Nut Staking that Doesn't Suck
- Thread starter calicojack
- Start date
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These are the two I own (other than a couple specialty sizes I've picked up from lowes or HD over the years).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPBN8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F5JC2I8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As you can tell, they've got slightly different purposes. The Tekton one isn't available right now unfortunately. I've bent one of the smaller punches in the tuffman set using it inappropriately. Haven't bent or damaged any of the other punches and I've used them pretty hard.
Wait - why is this guy using a hammer on an automatic center punch?
ok - I have seen this brand name come up in other forums as well.
This spring loaded punch works great. If you decide to get one just make sure you pick one with a good point.
https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
To avoid staking I use the PWS Ratcheting Castle nut. It has served me well.
https://www.opticsplanet.com/primary-weapons-systems-pws-ratchet-lock-sling-mount-plate.html
https://www.opticsplanet.com/primary-weapons-systems-pws-ratchet-lock-sling-mount-plate.html
This is what I have used with no problems.
DutchV
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2012
- 4,725
Those have been known to loosen up if they're removed and re-used.
I bought a good one on ebay for about 20 bucks....its got a bed bulb on the end....I love it....I figure out the brand and get back to you....
I would recommend the one I have, but my staking jobs look downright awful. But hey, they're still effectively staked.
DutchV
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2012
- 4,725
I used one of these recently. Took a little longer than the biggger brass one from Harbor Freight but the results looked good.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General...ERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-302880581-_-309724048-_-N
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General...ERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-302880581-_-309724048-_-N
Blasphemy.
I stake mine the old fashioned way, with a hammer and center punch. No problemo.
Thank you for the heads up. I have re-used them and will now keep an eye out to make sure there aren’t any issues.
Me neither. My HD gun I just have a tiny dab of pink locktite on there for just a tiny bit of extra holding. But none of my others have ever backed loose in hundreds to thousands of rounds. I sure would something that's going to see thousands upon thousands of rounds and service use where it might not see an armorer or attentive soldier checking it over for months or years and getting loose in the field is going to SUCK. But I don't really have to worry about that. So I don't stake it (gas keys on the other hand...)
Magnumite
Ultimate Member
I use a standard center punch. I just bias the punch to the side of the castelation which will not allow any movement of the nut.
Last edited:
DutchV
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2012
- 4,725
You might want to track down a copy of the 23&P field manual. It's fairly easy to find. Staking the castle nut, in two places, is advised.
Next thread, how to un-stake your staked castle nut because you want to. A.) change your buffer tube, B.) add a super cool one point sling plate thing, C.) add some fancy new rear takedown pin because your old one sticks, D.) convert your pistol to a rifle, E.) start over from a stripped lower because you effed up F.) your buffer spring retainer pin broke and the spring went flying somewhere and you need to replace it, G.) you want to swap your mil-spec $200 stock to something that has a commercial buffer tube...
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