Form 1 $100 suppressor

DaemonAssassin · Oct 21, 2021

camo556 said:
That's yuge. .532 ID.

Maybe I should label it 450 bushmaster lol.

I have a drill chart for calibers and the drill bit to use, so it is over bore. Sorry, I was way off on over drill diameter. Refer to the image and it'll also include the correct drill bit for the caliber.

camo556 · Oct 21, 2021

DaemonAssassin said:
I have a drill chart for calibers and the drill bit to use, so it is over bore. Sorry, I was way off on over drill diameter. Refer to the image and it'll also include the correct drill bit for the caliber.

thanks!

Melnic · Oct 27, 2021

DaemonAssassin said:
QuietBore is now requiring you to show proof of a approved Form 1, before they will even ship you a single thing.

https://www.quietbore.com/2020/10/14/how-to-order-a-form-1-kit-from-quietbore/

I had not read all of your post 660.
They mark the tubes with your form 1 info so no time and $ running to get it engraved locally. That is a $ and time saver right there.

dbledoc · Oct 27, 2021

camo556 said:
Making a suppressor for 350 legend? no. There are a few on the market like the rugged obsidian which will handle it (check silencer shop). I have one in jail. Anything that can handle 7.62x39+ (300blk or also 30-30) ought to handle 350 legend (except with a bigger bore obviously). The Griffin 9 is rated for hunting applications of 7.62x39 for example (7 rounds, slow fire). I was looking at the kits on quietbore - to make one you probably want the 308 or 556 parts drilled to 9mm (which I figure is really .36 ish). I was going to email then ask ask about whether drilling the 308 baffles to 9mm would be OK. cant see why not.

I have an older Form 1 drilled out to 45 I am thinking of trying.
Just picked up a Ruger American with a 22 inch barrel, so I figure the pressures will not be too high? Or maybe I am hoping the pressure isn't too high.

camo556 · Oct 27, 2021

dbledoc said:
I have an older Form 1 drilled out to 45 I am thinking of trying.
Just picked up a Ruger American with a 22 inch barrel, so I figure the pressures will not be too high? Or maybe I am hoping the pressure isn't too high.

honestly idk.

Everything I have read says aluminum baffles are not enough. I have been researching what other makers do. Griffin Ultralight Series is an interesting example: https://www.griffinarmament.com/sportsman-ultra-light-300-silencer/
https://www.griffinarmament.com/sportsman-ultra-light-338-silencer/

What they do is an aluminum outer tube, two HD stainless baffles, followed by aluminum baffles. This is rated up to . 300 Remington Ultra Magnum (26" barrel min) and 300 win mag (24" barrel min).

On The Rev 9 https://www.griffinarmament.com/revolution-9-silencer-mod-3/

its an aluminum tube with all 17-4 heat treated baffles. Now they officially say "5 to 7 rounds" then allow to cool. *cough* I may have exceeded this with 556 and 7.62x39 testing it, and it was fine but I dont recommend it.

Which leads me to the conclusion that an alum tube is fine for something like 300blk, 7.62x39 or 350 legend, but at least two or more of the (blast) baffles should be heat treated stainless.

camo556 · Oct 27, 2021

Edit: So I looked at the quietbore 45 and it has "(10) Internals- (1) Stainless Steel (9) Aluminum internal filters" hmmm. Is one stainless blast baffle enough?

camo556 · Nov 1, 2021

So apparently someone put #MURICA and MERICA as suppressor model numbers.

"Lets Go Brandon" has not been taken yet.

lazarus · Nov 1, 2021

camo556 said:
Edit: So I looked at the quietbore 45 and it has "(10) Internals- (1) Stainless Steel (9) Aluminum internal filters" hmmm. Is one stainless blast baffle enough?

Maybe. The issue isn’t just strength. Aluminum erodes at a much lower temperature and it also loses strength, depending on the alloy, at higher temperatures. Potentially permanent weakening. This is partly why the aluminum hunting suppressors say things like 5-10 shots (depending on the model) and then allow to cool to ambient before firing more. You’ll get increased erosion past a few shots AND as the shit count increases the potential to both weaken the suppressor enough from heat causing it to fail goes up. Or permanent weakening can occur, which will increase the risk of failure or just baffle erosion in future use if you let it get too hot.

That’s why you generally only see rimfire cans as all aluminum. A few pistol cans will do it, but even then usually the blast chamber is steel with the rest of the can and baffles aluminum.

camo556 · Nov 2, 2021

Form 1 submitted.

camo556 · Nov 6, 2021

I decided to go Gucci. I found a titanium modular kit online.

kmwhisper. https://kmwhisper.com/collections/titanium-solvent-trap

$600, all Ti, 7.8", comes with 3 end caps (two are threaded) and a blast tube. jig is extra. the jig comes with 6 sizes. yeah we are beyond $100, but all Ti for $600 hard to beat. I blame Bidenflation.

My plan is to drill the baffles to to .52, Then have two end caps, one 9 mm and one 45 cal (I bought an extra). I also plan to clip at least the first blast baffle.

even though my dog is armed, no drilling yet, don't worry internet. My fingerprints are sitting at the WV post office. :crossfingers: I can drill soon.

my only question is how many drill bits I will destroy on Ti. And dremel cutoff wheels trying to clip the baffles.

teratos · Nov 6, 2021

Buff7mm said:
I fingerprinted myself and overnighted them to Martinsburg and took a picture of myself that was submitted electronically with the form 1

Good sir, how does a man go about such a task as fingerprinting himself?

camo556 said:
That's yuge. .532 ID.

Maybe I should label it 450 bushmaster lol.

I’m going to building a can for my 50 Beowulf.
1.8 in ID, and 11” long.

dbledoc · Nov 6, 2021

I decided to build an all Titanium one on my unused 9mm stamp. Got a larger diameter Titanium tube but it is only 5 inches long. Will drill it to a little larger than 9 mm and will use exclusively on my 350 legend.

Squaregrouper · Nov 6, 2021

camo556 said:
I decided to go Gucci. I found a titanium modular kit online.

kmwhisper. https://kmwhisper.com/collections/titanium-solvent-trap

$600, all Ti, 7.8", comes with 3 end caps (two are threaded) and a blast tube. jig is extra. the jig comes with 6 sizes. yeah we are beyond $100, but all Ti for $600 hard to beat. I blame Bidenflation.

My plan is to drill the baffles to to .52, Then have two end caps, one 9 mm and one 45 cal (I bought an extra). I also plan to clip at least the first blast baffle.

even though my dog is armed, no drilling yet, don't worry internet. My fingerprints are sitting at the WV post office. :crossfingers: I can drill soon.

my only question is how many drill bits I will destroy on Ti. And dremel cutoff wheels trying to clip the baffles.

Cobalt bits with oil and a drill press. Start with a small pilot hole and step up several times before getting to .52". Another trick to drilling titanium is to "tap" the baffle with the drill press on a low speed. I'm talking no more than 3-4 seconds of contact time before raising the bit- rinse and repeat. Constant pressure on unlubed titanium is what kills drill bits quickly.

camo556 · Nov 6, 2021

teratos said:
Good sir, how does a man go about such a task as fingerprinting himself?

I’m going to building a can for my 50 Beowulf.
1.8 in ID, and 11” long.

girthy

camo556 · Nov 6, 2021

squaregrouper said:
Cobalt bits with oil and a drill press. Start with a small pilot hole and step up several times before getting to .52". Another trick to drilling titanium is to "tap" the baffle with the drill press on a low speed. I'm talking no more than 3-4 seconds of contact time before raising the bit- rinse and repeat. Constant pressure on unlubed titanium is what kills drill bits quickly.

Bertfish · Nov 6, 2021

teratos said:
Good sir, how does a man go about such a task as fingerprinting himself?

I’m going to building a can for my 50 Beowulf.
1.8 in ID, and 11” long.

Probably not tough to do it yourself. Lightly apply ink and roll your finger. Didn't think about doing it myself nice way to save a few bucks

Melnic · Nov 13, 2021

I have an 8" d cell tube on a form 1, where is a good place for stainless freeze plugs formed or at least for someone with a forming tool in stock?

dbledoc · Nov 13, 2021

Melnic said:
I have an 8" d cell tube on a form 1, where is a good place for stainless freeze plugs formed or at least for someone with a forming tool in stock?

White Trash Tactical

duckduckgoose · Nov 13, 2021

teratos said:
Good sir, how does a man go about such a task as fingerprinting himself?

I’m going to building a can for my 50 Beowulf.
1.8 in ID, and 11” long.

i just did a form 1 SBR submission a couple weeks back and did my own fingerprints. while i haven't gotten my approval yet, it's only been 15 days. i used this link as my guide:

https://www.nationalguntrusts.com/blogs/nfa-gun-trust-atf-information-database-blog/atf-compliant-fd-258-fingerprint-cards-walk-through-guide

and ordered the cards from the atf and they came in like 5 days. ordered them from the atf from here:

https://www.atf.gov/distribution-center-order-form

calicojack · Nov 24, 2021

duckduckgoose said:
i just did a form 1 SBR submission a couple weeks back and did my own fingerprints. while i haven't gotten my approval yet, it's only been 15 days. i used this link as my guide:

https://www.nationalguntrusts.com/blogs/nfa-gun-trust-atf-information-database-blog/atf-compliant-fd-258-fingerprint-cards-walk-through-guide

and ordered the cards from the atf and they came in like 5 days. ordered them from the atf from here:

https://www.atf.gov/distribution-center-order-form

I did my own fingerprints on my last form 1. Not easy to do, I had a lot do-overs before I got it right. If you have a friend that can help, that would make the process go a lot faster.

Form 1 $100 suppressor

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