Help dialing in a green dot scope

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  • wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    You can use a ballistics calculator to determine the offset at 25 yards for any zero range.

    I just JBM Ballistics - https://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi

    So an AR with a 55 grain bullet at 3000 fps, you would adjust your sights so the bullet hits 1.1 inches low at 25 yards, and the rifle will be zeroed for 100 yards.

    If you wanted a 200 yard zero, you would set the sights to hit 0.7" low at 25 yards.

    The reason you adjust to hit low at 25 yards is that due to the high sight height on an AR, the bullet is rising from below at short ranges.

    yea that is something I'm worried about as it's calibered in .357 mag so 100 yrds is effective range even in a rifle and Im not sure of what drop might be can't find any reliable data.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    Ammo is freaking outrageous right now. It sucks.

    I know resetting the sight to zero sounds like a pain but it’s just sort of one of those necessary steps to make sure you are at least starting off close to the center.

    I looked up the specs for your optic. If you bore sight the rifle at 25yds like I described then get back to the range I’m pretty sure you will be on the paper at 25yds with your first shot. At 25yds your 2moa dot covers up an 8” diameter circle. So just grab a paper plate and staple it to a tree 25yds from your window.

    At the range shoot at a larger say 16”x16” grid target. Aim right for the center and take a shot. If you to your part and have the gun totally steady you should be able to dial in from there. At 25yds each click of the dial will move the bullet impact 2”. So if your first shot was 6” low dial UP 3 clicks. If the shot was 8” to the left, dial right 4 clicks.

    Then take another shot. You should be pretty close to center. Iike some posted above take 2 more shots and measure the center of that 3 shot group and make a final adjustment from the center of that 3 shot group.

    If you are satisfied with your result at 25yds move the target back to 50yds. Your shots should be a little lower but still on the paper. At 50yds each click will move the point of impact 1”. So if you are 1” low dial up 1 click. Your windage shouldn’t change.

    If you are close to center at 50yds move back to 100yds and do it again. Your first shot should again be low. This time at 100 yds each click will move the point of impact 1/2”. So you may beed to dial up 3-4 clicks to get back to the center. At this point I would take my 5 shot group and make my final adjustment from the
    center of that 5 shot group.

    This procedure should consume between 12-15 rounds.

    On the redialing the specs on my Holosun H403BGR say 50 =/- MOA for travel range which would be 100 0.5 clicks form one side to another yet the following URL for a similiar sight said 372 clicks elevation and 348 windage.

    https://unnecessarycomplification.wordpress.com/2016/09/28/review-holosun-403gl/
     

    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    I like to verify the optical plane of the scope vs center line of the bore against a short range target 10-25 yards to make sure they agree before moving to a gridded target at longer distance.(mechanical zero). By firing more than one shot, gross windage adjustments can easily be made at the same time before the scope dials are even involved. Especially if you have windage adjustable mounts.
    Once you get paper at 100 yds and your reasonably close, its easy enough to have an assistant adjust the reticule from target center to point of impact while a steady hold is maintained.

    Most, if not a majority of manufacture make drums that usually raise POI or move groups right when making anti clockwise adjustments and clockwise to lower or move groups left. (this may not always be the case check your kit but mostly) Your turning the drums toward yourself and not away so its easier if that's what you happen to have going on.

    By knowing this before hand, an assistant isn't always necessary and the action can be taken by the firer alone without too much difficultly in many cases by having to maintain a steady hold, or count clicks- perform the action all at the same time.
    By having the majority of windage adjustments complete at short range, it usually a simple matter to target the rifle because less clicks are needed for sighting at a greater distance taking into account the difference in elevation only.

    The flatter the trajectory of the cartridge that is being used, the easier it is.
    For rifles adapted/designed to fire pistol cartridges, the cartridges are usually more abundant than what is commonly used during sighting so elevation corrections could be more drastic, a greater number of cartridges may need to be fired due to the difference in velocity/efficiency at longer ranges.

    The more you do it, the easier it usually becomes with a little practice.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    yea that is something I'm worried about as it's calibered in .357 mag so 100 yrds is effective range even in a rifle and Im not sure of what drop might be can't find any reliable data.

    What round?

    Manufacturer will tell you what the muzzle velocity should be. You have to figure out the bullet, but that should not be too hard.

    Say Hornady 125 grain XTP at 1200 fps. You are looking at 1.5 inches high at 25 yards, for a 100 yard zero.

    For a Maximum Point Blank Range zero, you would set for 2.4 inches high at 25 yards. This would give you a +/- of no more than 5 inches from muzzle to 143 yards.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    What round?

    Manufacturer will tell you what the muzzle velocity should be. You have to figure out the bullet, but that should not be too hard.

    Say Hornady 125 grain XTP at 1200 fps. You are looking at 1.5 inches high at 25 yards, for a 100 yard zero.

    For a Maximum Point Blank Range zero, you would set for 2.4 inches high at 25 yards. This would give you a +/- of no more than 5 inches from muzzle to 143 yards.

    Muzzle velocity of .357 mag rounds are typically my the manufacture given at what the average pistol is. There is some data supporting 1700-1800 fps typically 158 grns) for an 18 in barrel(mine is 18.5) but nothing telling me what you just told me for a .357 mag.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    Muzzle velocity of .357 mag rounds are typically my the manufacture given at what the average pistol is. There is some data supporting 1700-1800 fps typically 158 grns) for an 18 in barrel(mine is 18.5) but nothing telling me what you just told me for a .357 mag.

    Sorry, I was basing it off a pistol MV.

    For 1750 FPS:

    Say Hornady 125 grain XTP at 1200 fps. You are looking at 0.1 inches high at 25 yards, for a 100 yard zero.

    For a Maximum Point Blank Range zero, you would set for 1.4 inches high at 25 yards. This would give you a +/- of no more than 5 inches from muzzle to 186 yards.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    Thanks for speed3 for inviting me out to his local out door range to give me hand despite not knowing the difference for now change a 0.5 moa click makes at 25 and 100 yrds. The green dot scope is confusing in another manner. Clockwise adjustments do move the dot in the scope up an right for elevation and windage but when readjusting your physical aim to recenter in the sled it has the opposite affect.
     
    Last edited:

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    An innocent question; is it really this complicated?

    What makes it more complicated is OP stated only a 25 yard range, but wanted to zero for further out.

    If you want to zero at 100 yards, and you have a 100 yard range to use, it is very easy.


    Max Point Blank Range is harder, as the zero yardage is always some odd number of yards.
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,963
    What makes it more complicated is OP stated only a 25 yard range, but wanted to zero for further out.

    If you want to zero at 100 yards, and you have a 100 yard range to use, it is very easy.


    Max Point Blank Range is harder, as the zero yardage is always some odd number of yards.
    Buuut, given that, it's all still theoretical, at this point. No matter the theorem applied, he still needs real world application to confirm his settings. He can't get that off the interweb.
    It's not that complicated. If you want to zero at 100 yards, you need to shoot from 100 yards. he needs to find someplace in which to do that.
     

    wb3jma

    Active Member
    Nov 15, 2020
    533
    Belcamp, MD Harford County
    Buuut, given that, it's all still theoretical, at this point. No matter the theorem applied, he still needs real world application to confirm his settings. He can't get that off the interweb.
    It's not that complicated. If you want to zero at 100 yards, you need to shoot from 100 yards. he needs to find someplace in which to do that.

    Err that's already happened if you look a couple posts up. Never ceases to amaze how a thread takes on a life of it's own and gets spun away.
     

    3paul10

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 6, 2012
    4,893
    Western Maryland
    I have a 100 yard zero target, but you shoot at 25 yards... with a box about 2 inches from point of aim....works excellent, and my zeros are right on...anyone wants one pm me and I'll email it to you
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,963
    Err that's already happened if you look a couple posts up. Never ceases to amaze how a thread takes on a life of it's own and gets spun away.
    Well then please direct me to the solution.
    I've never sighted in a green dot before. Evidently, they are way more complex than red dots. :sarcasm:
    I'm having a hard time following your actual problem. People shouting out numbers of clicks, failing the math, etc.

    Since this is not an open bore rifle, you need to get a couple feet from the target and shoot it from a steady rest. If you can't manage a group from there(and then adjust), either throw the sight away or throw the rifle away. One of them is focked.


    If you think the problem might be the sight, dial the sigh's vertical and horrizontal all the way in one direction until they stop. Now, dial each one in the opposite direction until they stop, counting the revolutions. If it takes 10 revolutions from one stop to the other, dial back five revolutions. This will give you a 'factory' center of the sight. Do this with vertical and horizontal, then shoot a target at about 10 yards aiming at the bull's eye. This should tell you which way to adjust fire.
     

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