308 load data

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  • dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,758
    Eldersburg
    Do I need both a .308 case gage and a cartridge gage? Or can I get a cartridge gage, check after resizing to verify trim length, then use the same gage for COL after seating the bullet?

    These are the gages I'm looking at:

    https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reload...&qid=1528653731&sr=8-2&keywords=308+case+gage

    https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-3807...528653783&sr=8-2&keywords=308+cartridge+gauge

    A simple set of calipers will give you all the information you really need. I have a case gauge that a friend gave me years ago and I only used it once, it hasn't been touched since.

    overall, what I am hearing is FMJ is less accurate than JHP. Correct?

    That is essentially correct, for the reasons someone stated earlier.
     

    BradMacc82

    Ultimate Member
    Industry Partner
    Aug 17, 2011
    26,177
    I still go by the calipers myself, never felt the need for a case gage. That small amount of unspent $$ can go to other consumables.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    A case gauge will tell you if your rounds meet SAAMI standards.

    For precision shooting, you want to size your cases just a touch to fit your rifle. For a bolt gun, you size to set the shoulder back 1 - 2 thousandths. for a ga gun, 3 - 5 thousandths.

    A Hornady care comparitor setup is more useful than a case gauge.
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,666
    As mentioned at the top of the thread, I am new to rifle reloading. I set up my decapping/full length sizing die this weekend and processed a few cases. Some of them slid in and out of the die easily, but most seemed at the verge of sticking in the die. Not sure why they didn't all feel the same, since they are all once fired brass from my rifle. Gotta use case lube going forward. Most of the cases measured a few thousands over after sizing. My trim tools are on order. Not sure if I should trim then send through the resizing die again. I am more concerned that the shoulder is at the proper point than the overall length, since its harder to measure the shoulder. Am hoping that the case gage will answer that question.

    FYI, the cases I have ready for reloading are a mix of Fiocchi and Winchester.

    Question: would a heavier bullet and/or load alter the brass sufficiently during firing as to make it difficult to get the brass fully into the resizing die?
     

    LGood48

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 3, 2011
    5,959
    Cecil County
    As mentioned at the top of the thread, I am new to rifle reloading. I set up my decapping/full length sizing die this weekend and processed a few cases. Some of them slid in and out of the die easily, but most seemed at the verge of sticking in the die. Not sure why they didn't all feel the same, since they are all once fired brass from my rifle. Gotta use case lube going forward. Most of the cases measured a few thousands over after sizing. My trim tools are on order. Not sure if I should trim then send through the resizing die again. I am more concerned that the shoulder is at the proper point than the overall length, since its harder to measure the shoulder. Am hoping that the case gage will answer that question.

    FYI, the cases I have ready for reloading are a mix of Fiocchi and Winchester.

    Question: would a heavier bullet and/or load alter the brass sufficiently during firing as to make it difficult to get the brass fully into the resizing die?


    Need to use case lube ALL THE TIME! Sure fire way to get a case stuck in your resizing die is to not lube it. I use RCBS spray lube everytime I reload my .223. Put the cases in a gallon ziplock bag, spray a small amount of lube in, shake and let sit for a couple of minutes.
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,666
    Need to use case lube ALL THE TIME! Sure fire way to get a case stuck in your resizing die is to not lube it. I use RCBS spray lube everytime I reload my .223. Put the cases in a gallon ziplock bag, spray a small amount of lube in, shake and let sit for a couple of minutes.

    Yes, Sir. Will do.

    Is it usual to trim brass before or after resizing?

    In reloading for pistol with 4 dies in a turret press, I am used to doing everything on the press in one operation from tumbled brass to finished cartridge. I'm beginning to understand that this is not likely going to be the case for rifle, since I have a 5th operation to trim brass.
     

    kstone803

    Official Meat Getter
    Feb 25, 2009
    3,924
    Ltown in the SMC
    Yes, Sir. Will do.

    Is it usual to trim brass before or after resizing?

    In reloading for pistol with 4 dies in a turret press, I am used to doing everything on the press in one operation from tumbled brass to finished cartridge. I'm beginning to understand that this is not likely going to be the case for rifle, since I have a 5th operation to trim brass.

    Trim after resizing. Resizing is often what will cause cases to stretch.
     

    Major03

    Ultimate Member
    As mentioned at the top of the thread, I am new to rifle reloading. I set up my decapping/full length sizing die this weekend and processed a few cases. Some of them slid in and out of the die easily, but most seemed at the verge of sticking in the die.

    Question: would a heavier bullet and/or load alter the brass sufficiently during firing as to make it difficult to get the brass fully into the resizing die?

    Yes, a stiffer load (more powder, heavier bullet or both) will produce more pressure and will stretch the brass more. As a new reloader, you want to remember to ALWAYS start on a PUBLISHED starting load and work your way up when developing your reloading recipes. Remember that different types of brass (military vs commercial and even brand to brand) can make a difference, so work up when ANY variable in your components changes. Good advice for veteran reloaders too.

    Get to know what to look for in regards to pressure signs. It'll make your brass last longer and more importantly keep you from destroying your firearm and possibly dying.

    In regards to some brass being easier to resize, lots of things could be the reason. Is this once fired brass you bought from someone else, or that you fired from the same rifle? Is it all from the same lot of ammo? Different chambers could have stretched some more than others, different loads create different chamber pressures, which would stretch some more than others. Different cases could have different amounts of case lube on the body and inside the neck.

    Even if all things are equal, different cases get work hardened at different rates. Some reloaders will anneal their cases to make them uniform and "soft." Some will also ream or turn their necks to make their neck tension uniform too.

    Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about the different amount of pressure needed on the press to resize cases for now. But yes, DEFINITELY lube every case.

    FWIW...I use Imperial sizing wax on the case and imperial graphite neck lube on the necks. It's a bit messier (and I need to retumble the brass after sizing to clean things up), but I've never had a stuck case either.
     

    Bountied

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 6, 2012
    6,894
    Pasadena
    A simple set of calipers will give you all the information you really need. I have a case gauge that a friend gave me years ago and I only used it once, it hasn't been touched since.



    That is essentially correct, for the reasons someone stated earlier.

    I used to use a case gauge but I fire form my brass now so it doesn't get used.

    If I was reloading for a semi auto I would full length resize then use the case gauge to see what needs to be trimmed, It's much faster than calipers.
     

    Major03

    Ultimate Member
    Trim after resizing. Resizing is often what will cause cases to stretch.

    Yes, however I'll give another perspective. If you're using a progressive or turret press, you'll want to trim necks prior to...or you'd may as well use a single stage press.

    I do my rifle reloading single stage on a Forster Co-Ax, so I resize after trimming for different reasons.

    I've found that while case length will vary slightly after resizing, if I trim after resizing that process can throw off the concentricity of my neck by a couple of thousandths. Perhaps it's my method of trimming, but I feel like I don't really lose anything by trimming prior to resizing. To me...concentricity is more important than a touch difference in case length. I also trim close to min published length so adding a little after resizing isn't going cause any problems.

    Here's whats great about this hobby though. Slight variations in process are OK, and you'll find a lot of opinions out there. There isn't really a "one way" to do it.

    That said, there are some universal safety things to watch out for...so don't be nonchalant about your process. Keep asking questions and make any alterations to a published process based on knowledge and experience.
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,666
    Another thought I just had: how would I go about removing a stuck case from the sizing die? Hasn't happened yet but I'd like to be prepared. ( same reason I purchased a bullet puller :) )
     

    LGood48

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 3, 2011
    5,959
    Cecil County
    Another thought I just had: how would I go about removing a stuck case from the sizing die? Hasn't happened yet but I'd like to be prepared. ( same reason I purchased a bullet puller :) )

    Cabela's sells a stuck case extractor from RCBS.
    https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCB...VWDRpCh014gU0EAQYAyABEgJ0c_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I also use a Lee turret press. All I do for my .223 is remove the indexing rod and then batch load the rounds. If you want to use the index feature you'll need a special die to activate the drum powder measure. I don't believe Cabela's carries them but Brownell's; FS Reloading should. Also available through Lee. https://leeprecision.com/long-charging-die.html

    Also, after trimming, don't forget to chamfer and debur your cases.
     

    dist1646

    Ultimate Member
    May 1, 2012
    8,758
    Eldersburg
    I used to use a case gauge but I fire form my brass now so it doesn't get used.

    If I was reloading for a semi auto I would full length resize then use the case gauge to see what needs to be trimmed, It's much faster than calipers.

    When loading for my spacegun, I run all my brass through the trimmer. Once the trimmer is set to length, there is no need to worry about the measurement, they all end up the same length.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    It depends on your trimmer.

    Some trimmers (Geraud and WTF) index off the case shoulder. So you MUST trim after sizing.

    I do my precision rounds one step at a time.

    I do plinking 5.56 on my Dillon. But most is once or twice fired brass, so no trim issues yet.
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,666
    Progress update: last week I deprimed and reprimed a few cases. Mistake, since I need to remove the primer to trim ( I am using the lee hand trimmer which indexes off the base of the case) I know of no way to safely remove a live primer, so its into the rifle and pull the trigger for me. Set those aside, and deprimed/sized a bunch of fresh cases. Some were still tight after lubing. Added more lube and ran through again. Then I ran through the hand trimmer. About 50% needed no trim at all. After trimming each, I popped them all into the case gage. 2/3 fell into and out of the gage with no effort, a few did not. Ran those through the sizing die again. Also cleaned the pockets. Then, just for fun, I pulled out the dial caliper and measured the case overall length on my ready to prime cases. They all measured .1 inches too short. WTF? measured the cases I had mistakenly primed. Same thing WTFFF??!! Then, just to confuse me completely, I measured the unprocessed cases. SAME THING!!!!!

    Then I pulled out the reloading manual. the case length is supposed to be 1.015, not 1.105. OOPS!! All is well. Dyslexics untie. (I am not dyslexic, I just transferred the wrong number to my cartridge data card)

    this afternoon I will load up a ladder of 4 rounds each at 5 steps from minimum load to 1 grain below never exceed and see how they group at the range.
     

    LGood48

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 3, 2011
    5,959
    Cecil County
    Progress update: last week I deprimed and reprimed a few cases. Mistake, since I need to remove the primer to trim ( I am using the lee hand trimmer which indexes off the base of the case) I know of no way to safely remove a live primer, so its into the rifle and pull the trigger for me. Set those aside, and deprimed/sized a bunch of fresh cases. Some were still tight after lubing. Added more lube and ran through again. Then I ran through the hand trimmer. About 50% needed no trim at all. After trimming each, I popped them all into the case gage. 2/3 fell into and out of the gage with no effort, a few did not. Ran those through the sizing die again. Also cleaned the pockets. Then, just for fun, I pulled out the dial caliper and measured the case overall length on my ready to prime cases. They all measured .1 inches too short. WTF? measured the cases I had mistakenly primed. Same thing WTFFF??!! Then, just to confuse me completely, I measured the unprocessed cases. SAME THING!!!!!

    Then I pulled out the reloading manual. the case length is supposed to be 1.015, not 1.105. OOPS!! All is well. Dyslexics untie. (I am not dyslexic, I just transferred the wrong number to my cartridge data card)

    this afternoon I will load up a ladder of 4 rounds each at 5 steps from minimum load to 1 grain below never exceed and see how they group at the range.

    Get a universal decapping die and VERY gently insert the primed case until the primer pops out. If you have the new version of the turret (cast aluminum base w/ spent primer tube) empty the tube and collect the perfectly good primers. Just use them to reprime.

    As an aside, Frankford Arsenal makes a case prep center for around $170. Set up for your caliber by following the instructions carefully. Also chamfers, deburs and cleans primer pockets. Additional accessory set to ream out military crimped primer pockets.
    https://fsreloading.com/frankford-arsenal-platinum-series-case-trim-and-prep-system-1945720918.html
    Also available from Cabela's.
     

    PowPow

    Where's the beef?
    Nov 22, 2012
    4,712
    Howard County
    Get a universal decapping die and VERY gently insert the primed case until the primer pops out. If you have the new version of the turret (cast aluminum base w/ spent primer tube) empty the tube and collect the perfectly good primers. Just use them to reprime.

    Safety goggles can't hurt. I've never had one go off, but I could imagine if it went off just as the primer was exiting the case that it might become a projectile that you wouldn't want in your eye.

    I always wear goggles whenever I do this or pull bullets with live components.
     

    LGood48

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 3, 2011
    5,959
    Cecil County
    Safety goggles can't hurt. I've never had one go off, but I could imagine if it went off just as the primer was exiting the case that it might become a projectile that you wouldn't want in your eye.

    I always wear goggles whenever I do this or pull bullets with live components.

    Great point! I wear glasses w/ lexan lenses so I don't normally think about safety goggles. :thumbsup:
     

    ras_oscar

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 23, 2014
    1,666
    Get a universal decapping die and VERY gently insert the primed case until the primer pops out. If you have the new version of the turret (cast aluminum base w/ spent primer tube) empty the tube and collect the perfectly good primers. Just use them to reprime.

    Universal decapper. Any reason why you do not recommend the .308 resize/decapping die I already have?
     

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