Doco Overboard
Ultimate Member
Couple of shots of a new CBI Krag rifle barrel. As always looks like a decent product and measures out well enough for pre- install inspection. Sight threads appear to be 8/32 and will work with existing screws for the 1901 ladder sight but I wouldn't get all nuts over tightening them until correct replacements are sourced or made.
Crown and FS dovetail well done with good workmanship and chamber is smooth to a well defined throat to about 1/2 the depth of the lands. Extractor slot is a little wide to expose a little more case head but I suspect it will be just fine for modest patched bullet loads. That could actually come in handy later on.
One thing that is different is that the chamber was advertised as needing finished reamed but you can see that a factory cartridge is seated to complete depth. Another is that there is an annular rim like on a Yugo Mauser barrel that is absent on the original barrels that I have. Not worried about it though because it will be easy to adjust if necessary. It's about .010 high. Rim thickness should be about .545. When the old barrel is off I can measure to the inner collar and then the bolt face to get a HS measurement just like a Mauser.
A Krag bolt will also advance about .150 to overcome the force of the cocking spring and force the rim to the chamber mouth to make the cartridge straight and seal up the rim tightly or for dirty or gritty ammo. Thats an important point to remember if the decision is made to lap the single lug so the bolt handle acts as an additional safety or second lug. Now you can have crooked cartridge to chamber syndrome but that's another topic. It'll sting go bang though.
Theirs some barrel specs and an impromptu way to form a wrench to get the job done in a pinch
One other thing is the exterior finish is polished an even and the stub is done so the barrel will work in a 94-96 action without extra lathe work. This will be installed on #175536 a parade rifle that has been around the block a time or to so there are many other tasks to complete until finished.
I can throw pictures and describe how repairs were made to the stock and give some resto tips for anyone interested in tackling repairs of that sort. If this has not already bored the hell out of someone already.
Crown and FS dovetail well done with good workmanship and chamber is smooth to a well defined throat to about 1/2 the depth of the lands. Extractor slot is a little wide to expose a little more case head but I suspect it will be just fine for modest patched bullet loads. That could actually come in handy later on.
One thing that is different is that the chamber was advertised as needing finished reamed but you can see that a factory cartridge is seated to complete depth. Another is that there is an annular rim like on a Yugo Mauser barrel that is absent on the original barrels that I have. Not worried about it though because it will be easy to adjust if necessary. It's about .010 high. Rim thickness should be about .545. When the old barrel is off I can measure to the inner collar and then the bolt face to get a HS measurement just like a Mauser.
A Krag bolt will also advance about .150 to overcome the force of the cocking spring and force the rim to the chamber mouth to make the cartridge straight and seal up the rim tightly or for dirty or gritty ammo. Thats an important point to remember if the decision is made to lap the single lug so the bolt handle acts as an additional safety or second lug. Now you can have crooked cartridge to chamber syndrome but that's another topic. It'll sting go bang though.
Theirs some barrel specs and an impromptu way to form a wrench to get the job done in a pinch
One other thing is the exterior finish is polished an even and the stub is done so the barrel will work in a 94-96 action without extra lathe work. This will be installed on #175536 a parade rifle that has been around the block a time or to so there are many other tasks to complete until finished.
I can throw pictures and describe how repairs were made to the stock and give some resto tips for anyone interested in tackling repairs of that sort. If this has not already bored the hell out of someone already.