80% Glock build costs
- Thread starter DENWA
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One other little detail, you don't have to 'fully' remove the frame tabs. They can protrude just a tiny bit (a few thousandths or so) and not interfere with anything. They do not have to be 'perfectly flush' with the top surfaces of the frame.Well, I'm ready to drill the holes in the PF940C - ugh. I never drill perpendicular holes, even with the drill press. Yes, I suck at drilling.
I chose to go the hand file route instead of attempting to use the end mill. It just seems like overkill. The videos of milling out the
barrel block are ... interesting ... and something I wanted to avoid.
Took about 2 hours of filing, checking, filing. But I wanted to go slow to avoid any obvious screw-ups. After the drilling, I intend to use high grit sandpaper to finish the rail tab removal.
This will be my first "modern" handgun since 2013 - and I don't need an HQL for it.
Now I'm thinkin' it'll be a lonely Austrian 9mm and it should have some friends speaking the same language...
Ok, I need some help please. I have the pf940C frame. I purchased the complete G19 Gen3 slide from Dan at BBP, a set of meprolight sights, and a Zev Fulcrum trigger with all the parts.
When I was purchasing the parts, I took the LPK out of the cart :sad: I don't want to buy the full LPK because I don't need to spend $50 for parts I don't need.
Here is my question. Listed are the parts contained in the LPK. Which ones do I need to buy individually, and do I wanted to get the "extended" mag catch and slide lock? I have put an * on the parts I think I need. Any ideas on the fastest way to get them would be welcome.
Magazine Catch Spring*
Magazine Release*
Trigger Housing Pin*
Locking Block Pin*
Slide Lock, Slide Lock Spring*
Slide Stop Lever with Spring*
Trigger Housing with Ejector
5lb Connector*
Trigger Spring
Trigger with Trigger Bar
Trigger Pin
When I was purchasing the parts, I took the LPK out of the cart :sad: I don't want to buy the full LPK because I don't need to spend $50 for parts I don't need.
Here is my question. Listed are the parts contained in the LPK. Which ones do I need to buy individually, and do I wanted to get the "extended" mag catch and slide lock? I have put an * on the parts I think I need. Any ideas on the fastest way to get them would be welcome.
Magazine Catch Spring*
Magazine Release*
Trigger Housing Pin*
Locking Block Pin*
Slide Lock, Slide Lock Spring*
Slide Stop Lever with Spring*
Trigger Housing with Ejector
5lb Connector*
Trigger Spring
Trigger with Trigger Bar
Trigger Pin
Attachments
whistlersmother
Peace through strength
Ahhh... I wondered if the tabs needed to be flush. I test fitted the slide and it seemed that what was left of the tabs didn't interfere with anything.One other little detail, you don't have to 'fully' remove the frame tabs. They can protrude just a tiny bit (a few thousandths or so) and not interfere with anything. They do not have to be 'perfectly flush' with the top surfaces of the frame.
You really don't need the extended mag release, those are too long and I take some off of them (the ones that Midway includes with their parts kit). The frame is relieved in that section so a standard mag release will work fine. Slide lock is personal preference, I have both, the extended is nice, but really not needed. I do like the extended slide stop lever, but again, that is more personal preference.
I can't tell if the zev trigger includes the trigger pin, but it does include the disconnector, so you don't need that. You need a trigger pin and locking block pin in addition to the two pins that P80 provides and that will cover you.. You don't need the Glock trigger housing pin, that is replaced with the steel pin provided by P80 (the stock Glock pin is polymer and not used).
I can't tell if the zev trigger includes the trigger pin, but it does include the disconnector, so you don't need that. You need a trigger pin and locking block pin in addition to the two pins that P80 provides and that will cover you.. You don't need the Glock trigger housing pin, that is replaced with the steel pin provided by P80 (the stock Glock pin is polymer and not used).
There is a fair amount of clearance between the top of the frame and the underside of the slide, so there's room to play there.
Red items are needed (if the ZEV trigger does not include a trigger pin)..
ETA - I can't be sure from the pic, if the ZEV trigger you have includes the trigger housing... if not, you will need that as well.. It sort of looks like it's in the package, but I can't be positive.
Red items are needed (if the ZEV trigger does not include a trigger pin)..
ETA - I can't be sure from the pic, if the ZEV trigger you have includes the trigger housing... if not, you will need that as well.. It sort of looks like it's in the package, but I can't be positive.
Thanks Sticky. That is extremely helpful. I think I will need the trigger housing as well. You saved me from another bad day when I wouldn't have what I needed to complete it. I may end up getting the whole kit. I am sure someone here will need a trigger...maybe even you.
Here is the trigger:
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...rop-in-trigger-kits-for-glock--prod74912.aspx
Complete Trigger Kit contains the trigger, trigger bar, trigger block, ejector, connector, trigger spring, and a lightweight stainless steel firing pin safety plunger and spring to further refine the trigger pull. Comes with a reduced-power striker spring to produce a lighter-feeling trigger for competition, and the factory-weight striker spring for daily carry and duty use.
Glad to help, I know it can be frustrating at times... lol
The trigger block and trigger housing are one in the same, the plastic part behind the trigger bar that the disconnector fits into and it has a little metal section on the top/front (the ejector). Looks like that is part of the kit as well as some other upgrades to the slide parts (safety plunger and spring and striker springs), so you don't need the 'trigger housing' or trigger block, that's part of the kit.
Glad to help, I know it can be frustrating at times... lol
The trigger block and trigger housing are one in the same, the plastic part behind the trigger bar that the disconnector fits into and it has a little metal section on the top/front (the ejector). Looks like that is part of the kit as well as some other upgrades to the slide parts (safety plunger and spring and striker springs), so you don't need the 'trigger housing' or trigger block, that's part of the kit.
Perfect. You are correct.
I am gathering the parts together on LWD's website and will order when I know I got it right. Don't be surprised if I have another question for you.
Glad to help anytime... that's what makes this community great!Perfect. You are correct.
I am gathering the parts together on LWD's website and will order when I know I got it right. Don't be surprised if I have another question for you.
Glad to help anytime... that's what makes this community great!
Sticky is the 80% whisperer. He helped me out immensely. Can't thank him enough !
echo6mike
Ultimate Member
Jumping on the 80% train, I do have one of the first gen P80 G17/22/etc bodies waiting for me to get around to it (and get a slide - might make it a fowtay, might go with 9mm). Can these be done without a drill press, or do I have an actual need now to pick up a new power tool? I'll look back through the thread for links to helpful videos, I'm sure the yousetubes or Full30 can help there...
Glad to help Bro, you did well with your first build!
ken792
Ultimate Member
Yeah, hand drill works great.
Tacticalglobe
III %er
I have the G17 frame in OD and wish I waited for the G19 platform.
I may see if anyone in interested in a trade or selling outright someday.
I may see if anyone in interested in a trade or selling outright someday.
knastera
Just another shooter
And if you sell/transfer it in Maryland, it has to be on the handgun roster.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
whistlersmother
Peace through strength
Took the plunge on the drilling - despite Polymer 80's insistence on NOT using a drill press... I used a drill press.
I did not clamp it - held by hand - this is polymer and not aluminum, after all. Drilled one side, then the other instead of running through both sides at once - I learned my lesson about this on 80% AR15 lowers...
I'm actually impressed I got the holes perpendicular without resorting to extra filing / adjustment. The pins just went in nice and straight.
The LPK is the standard Glock, right from the factory. Came completely disassembled, so after watching youtube, looking at diagrams, I managed to get it together. Function checks. Mag release works.
Compared to my C&R combloc handguns, I'm not impressed with all the plastic toy parts in the gun. Trigger and trigger block are plastic, mag catch/release are plastic, mag release spring was just a piece of stiff wire.
Couple of slight quirks: The slide is sluggish IF I RIDE IT FORWARD. However, it does go into battery if I release it from the slide lock or release without riding it. No lubrication yet - I'll have to find out about the type of lub and the lub points. I would like to use Ballistol on it, if possible.
The other quirk is the slide has slight play just before the ejector. I have to carefully shift the slide slightly out of the way of the ejector to get the slide back on the lower - no biggy and the guns function checks otherwise.
The gun feels tight, no slop in the trigger housing, trigger safety works.
Now, to get it to the range for actual fire testing. When I ordered the 80% frame, I also got a neutered 10rd mag. That's good for now, but if the thing just works, I may pick up some standard capacity mags for it.
Bottom line: Simple completion, simple assembly, simple operation, simply works. I wonder it Glock will pay me for that line?
And the absolute best part - no serial number.
[And YES, that's my foot in the picture!]
I did not clamp it - held by hand - this is polymer and not aluminum, after all. Drilled one side, then the other instead of running through both sides at once - I learned my lesson about this on 80% AR15 lowers...
I'm actually impressed I got the holes perpendicular without resorting to extra filing / adjustment. The pins just went in nice and straight.
The LPK is the standard Glock, right from the factory. Came completely disassembled, so after watching youtube, looking at diagrams, I managed to get it together. Function checks. Mag release works.
Compared to my C&R combloc handguns, I'm not impressed with all the plastic toy parts in the gun. Trigger and trigger block are plastic, mag catch/release are plastic, mag release spring was just a piece of stiff wire.
Couple of slight quirks: The slide is sluggish IF I RIDE IT FORWARD. However, it does go into battery if I release it from the slide lock or release without riding it. No lubrication yet - I'll have to find out about the type of lub and the lub points. I would like to use Ballistol on it, if possible.
The other quirk is the slide has slight play just before the ejector. I have to carefully shift the slide slightly out of the way of the ejector to get the slide back on the lower - no biggy and the guns function checks otherwise.
The gun feels tight, no slop in the trigger housing, trigger safety works.
Now, to get it to the range for actual fire testing. When I ordered the 80% frame, I also got a neutered 10rd mag. That's good for now, but if the thing just works, I may pick up some standard capacity mags for it.
Bottom line: Simple completion, simple assembly, simple operation, simply works. I wonder it Glock will pay me for that line?
And the absolute best part - no serial number.
[And YES, that's my foot in the picture!]
Attachments
Pretty work! Well done!!
It's hard to tell from your pic, but one thing to check is the slide stop spring. It is tricky to get it fully inserted into the little groove in the frame. Is the front section of the spring flush or below the frame on either side (fully down into the groove)??
I modified my first one, but since then I have done another and helped someone with theirs and it takes a small punch (3/32" is what I used) and just hand pressure on the spring, just behind the right angle bend where it fits in the frame. Remove the slide stop and lift the rear of the spring up a little with one finger and use the punch to 'press' the spring all the way in. When it's all the way seated, the spring will be flush or below the frame on the front of the spring. If it's not fully inserted, the front of the spring will stick up a little into the barrel channel and the action spring can hang up on it.
It's hard to tell from your pic, but one thing to check is the slide stop spring. It is tricky to get it fully inserted into the little groove in the frame. Is the front section of the spring flush or below the frame on either side (fully down into the groove)??
I modified my first one, but since then I have done another and helped someone with theirs and it takes a small punch (3/32" is what I used) and just hand pressure on the spring, just behind the right angle bend where it fits in the frame. Remove the slide stop and lift the rear of the spring up a little with one finger and use the punch to 'press' the spring all the way in. When it's all the way seated, the spring will be flush or below the frame on the front of the spring. If it's not fully inserted, the front of the spring will stick up a little into the barrel channel and the action spring can hang up on it.
