This will be my 1st attempt at reloading !

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  • BryanR

    Member
    Sep 1, 2015
    20
    I have read and read and read. I have watched numerous videos, and I think I am ready to proceed. I have all the equipment I think I need initially.

    I only want to reload 1 thing.... a good suppressed, paper target killing, about 100 yards max accuracy, round for my Ruger .300 Bolt Action with a 16 in barrel.

    I got my brass from Rocky Brass and they state it is ready to go.
    I got some free Everglades 150 Grn bullets.

    My question before I get started is about the Primer and Powder combination I should use.

    I have read a lot, but it seems like just about every thread has to do with the ability of the reload to properly function in an AR. I guess I am just a little overwhelmed at all the combinations and factors available, and realizing my limitations.....don't want to do anything stupid.

    I am confident that I can produce a satisfactory round on the outside....but what"s inside is where I don't want any mistakes.


    Thanks for the education!!!....Bryan
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,815
    I'm using A 1680 and Magnum primers. We're talking 300AAC right? Subsonic right?
     
    Supersonic Info...
    I'm not a reloading wizard, but I have been doing a lot of .300 Blackout recently.
    For primers, I use CCI #400
    For powder (and your 150gr bullets) I would use H110, starting at 16.0gr and work up in .5gr increments until you find a good, accurate zone and tweak it from there.
    Shortening OAL will not help you in a bolt gun- go with published data.

    Make sure you learn about over-pressure signs and inspect your spent primers/brass while working up a load. Your gun's max load isn't necessarily the same as the published data. There are multiple 3-4 minute Youtube videos that are great.

    PS- I'm really impressed with what I got from Rockey Brass- no point in converting 5.56 at that price and quality.

    Edit- I would increase your projectile to 200gr+ for subs until you're more experienced. Lighter bullets are trickier to load subs for.
     

    Seagrave1963

    Still learnin'
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 6, 2011
    10,002
    Eastern Shore
    Best of luck - due to the contributions of many great folks here at MDS, my first foray into reloading was successful. It is very addicting but does satisfy the OCD a bit!
     

    iH8DemLibz

    When All Else Fails.
    Apr 1, 2013
    25,396
    Libtardistan
    I will only add that you should never assume the brass is good to go from the factory. Even if the factory claims that it is.

    Every piece of brass should be full length sized. Then every piece of brass should be trimmed to length. Then the mouth gets chamfered inside and out.

    Set your seating/crimping die using the longest piece of brass you can find. Setting the die with a short piece of brass will cause you major headaches. Usually a buckled shoulder. Be very careful with the amount of crimp too. That's another shoulder buckler.

    Good luck and have fun.
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,632
    AA county
    I will only add that you should never assume the brass is good to go from the factory. Even if the factory claims that it is.

    Every piece of brass should be full length sized. Then every piece of brass should be trimmed to length. Then the mouth gets chamfered inside and out.

    Set your seating/crimping die using the longest piece of brass you can find. Setting the die with a short piece of brass will cause you major headaches. Usually a buckled shoulder. Be very careful with the amount of crimp too. That's another shoulder buckler.

    Good luck and have fun.

    This.

    Don't find out for the first time when you head to the range that none of your rounds chamber.
     
    I will only add that you should never assume the brass is good to go from the factory. Even if the factory claims that it is.

    Every piece of brass should be full length sized. Then every piece of brass should be trimmed to length. Then the mouth gets chamfered inside and out.

    Set your seating/crimping die using the longest piece of brass you can find. Setting the die with a short piece of brass will cause you major headaches. Usually a buckled shoulder. Be very careful with the amount of crimp too. That's another shoulder buckler.

    Good luck and have fun.

    This.

    Don't find out for the first time when you head to the range that none of your rounds chamber.

    Agreed.
    Earlier in this thread, I mentioned how I was highly impressed with Rockey Brass. I ordered 500 and >95% were within .002" of 1.358" and only 1/523 was outside their specs- being 1.354". The mouths were chamfered by Rockey Brass.
    All that for 11cpr; I see no point in converting 5.56 brass again.

    Caveat- This is not meant as a "trust me, you don't need to measure their brass" type comment, rather I was damn impressed with their QC. I hope they keep up that level of perfection.
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,501
    AA Co
    You are correct.

    300 AAC and Subsonic only.

    Thanks.
    I'll reiterate a few points... first, 150gr projectiles are not ideal at all for subsonic ammo. I load 180gr and heavier for subsonic and use expressly Accurate A1680 for powder and typically CCI 400 primers (std small rifle primers). I have had no issues developing accurate, subsonic loads with those criteria. Anything under 180gr in a 300AAC for me gets loaded supersonic.

    To properly load subs in the 300, I think you need chronograph to verify velocities. You also need to start the load high and work your way down in powder charges, all the while, being absolutely sure that every round is getting out of the bore, until you reach a reliable subsonic load. Subsonic ammo can be tricky and it's easy to stick a round in the bore with too low of a charge weight. The result is not pretty at all!

    There are a lot of variables involved, doing your homework is important! A simple chamber gauge will verify that your brass and loads are chamberable.
     

    GUNSnROTORS

    nude member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 7, 2013
    3,620
    hic sunt dracones
    I'll reiterate a few points... first, 150gr projectiles are not ideal at all for subsonic ammo. I load 180gr and heavier for subsonic and use expressly Accurate A1680 for powder and typically CCI 400 primers (std small rifle primers). I have had no issues developing accurate, subsonic loads with those criteria. Anything under 180gr in a 300AAC for me gets loaded supersonic.

    To properly load subs in the 300, I think you need chronograph to verify velocities. You also need to start the load high and work your way down in powder charges, all the while, being absolutely sure that every round is getting out of the bore, until you reach a reliable subsonic load. Subsonic ammo can be tricky and it's easy to stick a round in the bore with too low of a charge weight. The result is not pretty at all!

    There are a lot of variables involved, doing your homework is important! A simple chamber gauge will verify that your brass and loads are chamberable.

    Agree 100%. Working down, particularly from unpublished data is advanced even for experienced loaders and should be approached with extra caution.

    OP, If you're using .300 AAC, 150 gr, and subsonic in the same sentence, be prepared for challenges with inconsistent velocity, associated accuracy, and a higher potential for obstructions. These are challenges you could easily eliminate entirely by loading heavier bullets and starting at published minimums.
     

    BryanR

    Member
    Sep 1, 2015
    20
    Thanks for all comments... I did buy the Sheridan gauge and will make sure I am within spec every step of the process.

    I will source some heavier rounds and save the 150’s for further down the road.

    I will also get the 1680 powder.

    I have read a lot of different opinions on primers......wmil spec.... magnum.... pistol. Does it matter for a bolt gun?
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    49,815
    Thanks for all comments... I did buy the Sheridan gauge and will make sure I am within spec every step of the process.

    I will source some heavier rounds and save the 150’s for further down the road.

    I will also get the 1680 powder.

    I have read a lot of different opinions on primers......wmil spec.... magnum.... pistol. Does it matter for a bolt gun?

    On the last question, I'm not sure, to be honest. Try different primers if you want. Accuracy is all you need to worry about. I would try standard small rifle primers and either magnum, bench, or mil spec. You shouldn't need to try all three.
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,501
    AA Co
    I would go with standard small rifle primers to start with. I have had no issues with them and I shoot em out of an AR, where the mil spec primers would theoretically be more appropriate, due to the floating firing pin. You don't have a floating firing pin in a bolt gun, so you don't need mil-spec. I haven't had to go magnum or ever tried small pistol in the 300, the std primers always worked fine for me with both subsonic and supersonic.
     

    Major03

    Ultimate Member
    With a bolt gun you’ll have an easier time getting your subs to work with a lighter bullet, since you don’t have to worry about cycling a bolt or locking one back on an empty chamber.

    However, I’d recommend starting out with a heavier bullet anyway.

    Good that you have a Sheridan gauge...the 300 BLK can be finicky in some chambers. I’ve found that I need to resize .309 bullets (like the King Shooters supply coated cast bullets) to get them to chamber in a match chamber reliably. Lee has a decent and inexpensive sizing die.

    Do you have a chronograph? It’ll help tune your load, and then help calculate accurate ballistics once you’ve found your recipe.
     

    Major03

    Ultimate Member
    Lastly, watch out for squibs if you work your way down...especially if you don’t have a chrony.

    Not catching it before sending another round down range will turn a pain in the ass afternoon into a trip to the ER and major hand surgery or worse
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,632
    AA county
    What floating firing pin and what need of milspec primers? The OPs shooting a bolt gun!
     

    Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,282
    HoCo
    OP good luck with the endeaver.
    I personally prefer a Chrony with a smartphone app. I used to record the #'s on a paper pad, or notes in the iphone. now the app just records it and I name the string.
    I have the Competition Electronics Pro Chrono w/ Bluetooth adapter.
     

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