Would Solder Hold?

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  • BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    I have a VP9 and really like the gun. My only problem with it is the trigger is a little heavy for my tastes and, being left-handed, the slide lock rests directly under my thumb when shooting so the gun doesn't lock back on an empty mag.

    I have ordered the "ultra-match" spring set (will drop the trigger from ~6 lbs to ~3 lbs) and a spare right side slide release. my plan is to cut it off at the red dotted line, drill a hole, tap, solder a bolt in the threads, then cut off the back of the bolt to make a new, shorter release.

    My question is this: will the solder be strong enough for this application? Is there a better way of accomplishing this? (the spare slide release was only ~$15, so if I don't like it when complete, no big deal.)

    VP9%20slide%20release%20change_zpsmqikjsts.jpg



    VP9%20slide%20release%20change%202_zpsnfoicyxd.jpg
     

    clandestine

    AR-15 Savant
    Oct 13, 2008
    37,031
    Elkton, MD
    Solder will hold it if it's drilled and tapped, but solder will also hold the head if you just cut it off and attach it with solder alone.

    If this were mine, I use a welder and build a shelf with weld.
     

    BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    Solder will hold it if it's drilled and tapped, but solder will also hold the head if you just cut it off and attach it with solder alone.

    If this were mine, I use a welder and build a shelf with weld.

    Is this something any gunsmith could do? Ideally, I would love it if there was a way to move the original up to my cut line. Would this be possible with welding?

    Would JB Weld work? (I've never used it before...) Cut, rough up the surface, apply the weld, let it cure, shape, then paint?
     
    Last edited:

    Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,267
    Harford County
    I'm not sure I fully understand all the factors involved...but I'll throw in an idea. What if you cut it at your line, then take the cut off piece and cut it again so that all you have left is the "bump" and solder that back on over top of what's left of the lever. It would add a little bit of thickness...don't know if that would be a problem. You should have enough surface area in contact between the two pieces that even regular solder should hold, assuming everything was cleaned and prepped right. Whatever you end up doing, you'll be giving up a good bit of leverage too...not sure if that would be a problem. For $15, it's worth playing around with.
     

    gre24ene

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 6, 2012
    1,519
    I have a VP9 and really like the gun. My only problem with it is the trigger is a little heavy for my tastes and, being left-handed, the slide lock rests directly under my thumb when shooting so the gun doesn't lock back on an empty mag.



    I have the same problem. Being left handed is a pain in the @ss sometimes.

    Please keep us posted with what you are able to come up with.

    I also ordered the spring kit for my VP9 but I honestly wasn't that impressed with it.
     

    Magnumite

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 17, 2007
    6,564
    Harford County, Maryland
    Is this something any gunsmith could do? Ideally, I would love it if there was a way to move the original up to my cut line. Would this be possible with welding?

    Would JB Weld work? (I've never used it before...) Cut, rough up the surface, apply the weld, let it cure, shape, then paint?

    You could cut off the extension, inlet the rear of the lever for the front of the removed extension, then silver solder the extension into the inlet. This would eliminate the shear forces applied when operaring the slide lock. Touchup would only show a very thin line where tge joint was made.

    Welding a rough shelf then shaping is appealing also.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    I have a VP9 and really like the gun. My only problem with it is the trigger is a little heavy for my tastes and, being left-handed, the slide lock rests directly under my thumb when shooting so the gun doesn't lock back on an empty mag.

    I have ordered the "ultra-match" spring set (will drop the trigger from ~6 lbs to ~3 lbs) and a spare right side slide release. my plan is to cut it off at the red dotted line, drill a hole, tap, solder a bolt in the threads, then cut off the back of the bolt to make a new, shorter release.

    My question is this: will the solder be strong enough for this application? Is there a better way of accomplishing this? (the spare slide release was only ~$15, so if I don't like it when complete, no big deal.)

    VP9%20slide%20release%20change_zpsmqikjsts.jpg



    VP9%20slide%20release%20change%202_zpsnfoicyxd.jpg

    Be careful with your ploymer frame...
     

    phipp13

    Active Member
    May 20, 2011
    143
    Point Lookout MD
    Use Silver solder also you should use a Lapidary/ Jeweler's torch. Too much heat and you will anneal the part making it soft and weak. Good luck Phipp
     

    Mark75H

    MD Wear&Carry Instructor
    Industry Partner
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 25, 2011
    17,174
    Outside the Gates
    Use Silver solder also you should use a Lapidary/ Jeweler's torch. Too much heat and you will anneal the part making it soft and weak. Good luck Phipp

    I don't think its possible to silver solder without affecting the hardness a the joint.
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,644
    MoCo
    I don't think its possible to silver solder without affecting the hardness a the joint.

    Depends on the orig temper and matl. 4140 will retain about 40HRc and 200ksi tensile at silver solder temps IIRC. Could always quench it and re-temper.

    FWIW, silver solder (braze) is likely stronger than the orig steel in shear. Can be done w/ a propane or mapp torch for something that small.
     

    BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    I have the same problem. Being left handed is a pain in the @ss sometimes.

    Please keep us posted with what you are able to come up with.

    I also ordered the spring kit for my VP9 but I honestly wasn't that impressed with it.

    I agree. I received the spring kit, installed it, and frankly, it made very little difference. (It's a little lighter, but that's about it.) Maybe after a few thousand rounds, it will be crisper.
     
    Last edited:

    BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    Depends on the orig temper and matl. 4140 will retain about 40HRc and 200ksi tensile at silver solder temps IIRC. Could always quench it and re-temper.

    FWIW, silver solder (braze) is likely stronger than the orig steel in shear. Can be done w/ a propane or mapp torch for something that small.

    I'll be using a MAP torch; that's what I have.
     

    RoadDawg

    Nos nostraque Deo
    Dec 6, 2010
    94,189
    A suggestion...

    Rather than a complicated attachment...
    How about a simple cut and bend...

    Pardon the napkin drawing...
    image.jpg

    Just an idea...

    Cut , bend , hammer flat and finish the surface with a file to remove sharp edges and texture the new thumb grip area.
     

    BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    Rather than a complicated attachment...
    How about a simple cut and bend...

    Pardon the napkin drawing...
    View attachment 162914

    Just an idea...

    Cut , bend , hammer flat and finish the surface with a file to remove sharp edges and texture the new thumb grip area.

    I considered that. I thought the metal might be too brittle.

    I soldered the original button back on after cutting, but didn't like it. I ended up just building and shaping my own button out of solder.

    2015-11-01%2016.00.12_zpsjvfk12ze.jpg


    The textured paint dried like crap, though (Birchwood Casey.) It needs to be stripped and repainted. What paint will stick best to solder?

    20151101_190649_zpsadgkjfkd.jpg


    Other than paint, it turned out perfect. I'm really happy with it. Works exactly as I had hoped.
     

    BenL

    John Galt Speaking.
    Update before and after. There were apparently a few air bubbles in the solder (a little disappointed), but otherwise, I'm really happy with it. The length is perfect and the rattle can paint job turned out fine.

    2015-11-04%2019.06.37_zpsmqcgjaqt.jpg



    2015-11-07%2010.46.17_zpsuqrep6gc.jpg
     

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