How do I decide?

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  • woodline

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 8, 2017
    1,947
    Also make sure to go ahead and do a form 1 SBR on one of your AR15 lowers. Or buy a new lower and form 1 that. If you decide your can makes your rifle too long/too heavy/too whatever, it's nice to be able to throw a shorter upper on there and not have to wait another 6 months.
     

    pilot25

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 13, 2016
    1,822
    Ok, I'm doing it on Thursday. I'm going to my local shop and getting a Rugged Micro 30. Last minute research on the Micro sold me on the ability to have it small and a little louder or put the extension on and have it a little quieter. Specs with the full configuration are close to everything else out there so its nice to have the versatility in addition to usability with different calibers. Also, an extra $300ish dollars in my pocket vs the SC Omega isn't a bad thing either.

    Thanks for the Form 1 tip. I'm going to do that too.

    Should I attempt to put the muzzle brake on it myself or have a pro do it?

    I'm already on the search for a 9mm suppressor.... When does it end??
     

    Hawkeye

    The Leatherstocking
    Jan 29, 2009
    3,971
    Ok, I'm doing it on Thursday. I'm going to my local shop and getting a Rugged Micro 30. Last minute research on the Micro sold me on the ability to have it small and a little louder or put the extension on and have it a little quieter. Specs with the full configuration are close to everything else out there so its nice to have the versatility in addition to usability with different calibers. Also, an extra $300ish dollars in my pocket vs the SC Omega isn't a bad thing either.

    Nice choice, and you won't be sorry. :)

    Thanks for the Form 1 tip. I'm going to do that too.

    Should I attempt to put the muzzle brake on it myself or have a pro do it?

    SBR ARs are SO much fun. You'll love that too.

    The muzzle brake isn't bad at all. It's cheap to have a pro do it, but if you have a Magpul BEV block, or a barrel clamping block for your vise you can do it yourself easily. Rugged gives you a shim kit (do not use a crush washer on a muzzle device for a suppressor) and you'll need a thin wrench. If you do the flash hider it's incredibly simple because they don't need to be timed. If you do the brake, they need to be timed, but you just figure out how many shims you need, and then put a couple of drops of rocksett on the threads and torque it down.

    I'm already on the search for a 9mm suppressor.... When does it end??

    Not until you have the whole trio - Rifle, Hangun, and Rimfire cans. At least.

    :)
     

    woodline

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 8, 2017
    1,947
    I don't know what the standard is, but my Rugged Micro appears to have just come with the flash hider (ETA: Silencershop appears to have changed their site so you can pick now, YMMV). That shouldn't need to be timed, shimmed, etc. You may want to check with your local store and see what device it comes with. I would have preferred the brake to be included by default on a .30 caliber can, but whatever. At least ruggeds flash hider does not ring or ting, and their muzzle devices aren't too expensive.

    As to 9mm can, get ready for a new round of being overwhelmed. I don't care about having the absolute best pistol suppression as long as it's reliable and hearing safe, so I am happy with the Griffin Optimus and Liberty Cosmic for now. Additionally I am holding out for Q to release their Erector design for 9mm or 45. I WILL be buying one of those.

    As to 9mm pistol cans I would be on the lookout for:

    Sig SRD9 (lightweight, comes with two pistons, goes on sale frequently)
    *Rugged Obsidian 9 (great price, modular, comes with one piston)
    AAC illusion 9 (allows you to use normal sights instead of suppressor height, comes with lots of accessories)

    For a Pistol Caliber Carbine, I would look for:

    *Dead Air Wolf 9SD (short and long config, seems usuable for pistols too)
    Silencerco Omega 9k (short, light; might be too fat for a non red dot pistol)

    *My picks. Also now I want to buy a Rugged Obsidian 9 and Dead Air Wolf 9SD.
     

    IMBLITZVT

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 20, 2009
    3,799
    Catonsville, MD
    You heard ONE of my SBR uppers with a 51T AAC flash hider "sing". :) ....

    No, you were just the first I heard it on. I have heard it on several of them, probably a half dozen or more. Mainly AAC cans. The last one was a MB/FH combo.

    Is there something specific you think has eclipsed it. All your info has been great and I like how you haven't said get this one or that one but clearly here you think something is better.

    No, I just have not been keeping up for last year waiting for the suppressors to transfer, so maybe something has come out to beat it.

    I have nothing personally invested in your selection. I am just trying to help were I can. Choosing another suppressor over the one I selected does not make mine bad. You have your reasons for owning, I have mine. I help a lot of people buy a lot of different stuff, I try to give facts and my opinions, different opinions and let them decide. If there is a clear cut winner I will say so. However there are many good suppressors.

    1.) The wait is more like 5-7 months now. Mine have all been 6 months for form 4 trust transfers.

    Seems very quick to me. Yeah times are going down but 6 months.... maybe in another few. We are down to 7 or so now. http://www.nfatracker.com/nfa-transfer-time-tracking/

    2.) Silencershop facilitates a form 3 transfer to the dealer as soon as you pay for the suppressor. Those are typically approved in 24-72 hours and then the suppressor ships to whichever dealer you select.

    I will have to look into that. My last form 3 transfer took like 5 months!

    4.) I honestly have no idea what happens when a store holding your suppressor goes out of business....

    Usually another FFL/SOT steps up and helps deliver everything working with ATF. I would not worry about it to much. I mean if you know they have issues... but people die suddenly and its not like the ATF has not taken care of those issues before.

    6.) Quit stalling and go buy a good can at a good price from a reputable store that helps you through the process....

    I would suggest getting out there and trying some! There are tons of people who will let you shoot one. Hell you can come to MDTCA's MG shoot sometime and if I am there, I will bring mine. There are a few people with Suppressors there.

    Not until you have the whole trio - Rifle, Hangun, and Rimfire cans. At least.

    You forgot the SMG category. They might be the most fun after Rimfire.
     

    woodline

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 8, 2017
    1,947
    Agreed on try suppressors first if possible, but some people don't have access or time to coordinate such a thing. Its not ideal to leap before you look, but the risk of not being happy with a good quality .30 Cal suppressor is pretty low, all things considered.

    All of my form 4 approvals are right at 6 month mark, but you lose some time between purchase and check cash/pending, and actually getting the stamp. For instance, on my most recent stamp approval (Q thunder chicken), time between online purchase and stamp received was 206 days. Time between check cashed/pending and stamp received was 182 days. I really only pay attention to how long it takes from when the ATF starts processing my form to when I get the stamp, but either time is pretty decent. I mean in principle it's really offensive because it's just a gun muffler that takes noise down from immediate serious damage to hearing to "probably okay for a couple shots, then still damaging." But back in the reality we live in, compared to where things were a year ago, very acceptable.
     

    IMBLITZVT

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 20, 2009
    3,799
    Catonsville, MD
    ... But back in the reality we live in, compared to where things were a year ago, very acceptable.

    Sorry, I thought it was ridiculous at 3 months before the suppressor run and Obama scares. Besides it being Unconstitutional... I could have a private company doing these with same or next day turn around time. So given Government workers, I would say any more than a week is still to long! Teacher back ground checks take 30 days according to the internet.
     

    woodline

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 8, 2017
    1,947
    Sorry, I thought it was ridiculous at 3 months before the suppressor run and Obama scares. Besides it being Unconstitutional... I could have a private company doing these with same or next day turn around time. So given Government workers, I would say any more than a week is still to long! Teacher back ground checks take 30 days according to the internet.
    It is ridiculous. It's offensive and unconstitutional. I hate that it is the way it is.
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,657
    MoCo
    If seems to me that only suppressor makers make the Flash hiders that sing. I don't know why.
    Didn't the original M16 3 prong flash hider sing? My MPX carbine absolutely *HOWLS*. Rings for almost 60s. So def not limited to suppressor only designs. One or two of my AAC FHs sing. A few dont. None of the brakes or FH/brake combos I have do it. I use electronic earmuffs so ringing is quite apparent (and annoying) after the initial blast.

    For the ones that sing (esp the MPX!) I plan on either cutting the prong lengths unequal, or machining different length grooves in the tip of two of them to make the 3 masses unequal. Upset the 'tuning fork' physics. AAC can't do this from the factory due to the SiCo patent IIRC.
     

    OLM-Medic

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    May 5, 2010
    6,588
    Ok, I'm doing it on Thursday. I'm going to my local shop and getting a Rugged Micro 30. Last minute research on the Micro sold me on the ability to have it small and a little louder or put the extension on and have it a little quieter. Specs with the full configuration are close to everything else out there so its nice to have the versatility in addition to usability with different calibers. Also, an extra $300ish dollars in my pocket vs the SC Omega isn't a bad thing either.

    Thanks for the Form 1 tip. I'm going to do that too.

    Should I attempt to put the muzzle brake on it myself or have a pro do it?

    I'm already on the search for a 9mm suppressor.... When does it end??

    Just Keep in mind that an SBR requires ATF approval to move between states. I travel too much to deal with that crap. Consider an AR pistol instead

    Also, I don't really plan on using the small K can option on my Micro. It looks loud as hell. I just got the Micro because it was cheaper than the Razor, but with more options.
     

    Dovk0802

    Active Member
    Sep 20, 2017
    255
    DC
    To add to the confusion, I went with the Amtac in 30 (still waiting for NFA branch to provide service after cashing my check...) ; primary host is an M&P10 and I was like the idea of minimizing blowback and the secondary host is for my .30-30 TC carbine to hunt with where I like the idea of minimizing length (although good for the M&P too).

    I think someone mentioned already best can for the buck is a .22... If you’re here like everything else, one isn’t enough. Do due diligence & take the plunge. Good luck.
     

    woodline

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 8, 2017
    1,947
    To add to the confusion, I went with the Amtac in 30 (still waiting for NFA branch to provide service after cashing my check...) ; primary host is an M&P10 and I was like the idea of minimizing blowback and the secondary host is for my .30-30 TC carbine to hunt with where I like the idea of minimizing length (although good for the M&P too).

    I think someone mentioned already best can for the buck is a .22... If you’re here like everything else, one isn’t enough. Do due diligence & take the plunge. Good luck.
    I really want to try out an Amtac can. I don't know what part of Maryland you are in, but would love to meet up and exchange notes at the range when you get it in and mounted.
     

    Dovk0802

    Active Member
    Sep 20, 2017
    255
    DC
    I’m in Bethesda & it’ll probably be fall; I’ll post review.
    My 1895 Chilean 7.62NATO Scout (yes, it’s an antique not a “firearm”) has a conjugal visit:
     

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    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    My centerfire cans are Thunder Beast. They have virtually no POI shift between the can and no can.

    I am not a fan of the twist lock QD, as most seem to have significant POI shift. The Thunder Beast uses a brake or flash suppressor that the can threads into. Coarser threads than the barrel, so more robust, and faster to attach remove.

    For rimfire, I got a Gemtech. Cheaper than the Sparrow/Spectre, and works fine.
     

    pilot25

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 13, 2016
    1,822
    The muzzle brake isn't bad at all. It's cheap to have a pro do it, but if you have a Magpul BEV block, or a barrel clamping block for your vise you can do it yourself easily. Rugged gives you a shim kit (do not use a crush washer on a muzzle device for a suppressor) and you'll need a thin wrench. If you do the flash hider it's incredibly simple because they don't need to be timed. If you do the brake, they need to be timed, but you just figure out how many shims you need, and then put a couple of drops of rocksett on the threads and torque it down.

    To revisit this, I think I'm going to have a shop install the Rugged brake. I think!!

    It looks pretty easy to do but all the videos I've watched are with brand new barrels. I don't want to bend anything and I have read some horror stories of people bending their uppers or barrels trying to wrench on and off muzzle devices. I do have the BEV block but not thin wrenches or the torque attachment I read about on another thread. Is it absolutely necessary to know how many pounds of torque you are using on it or can you just tighten it until it doesn't move anymore? I've watched enough videos where they just use an armorers wrench without a specific number of foot pounds. I'm more worried about bending something trying to get the old one off that is probably fused on there pretty tight from use.

    https://ruggedsuppressors.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/Mount-Instructions.pdf

    Anyone recommend a good gunsmith in the Frederick or Montgomery county area who knows what they are doing to put on a Rugged Micro30 brake?
     
    Last edited:

    erwos

    The Hebrew Hammer
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 25, 2009
    13,884
    Rockville, MD
    If you're using Rocksett, I doubt absolute torque matters a whole lot. You do want to use a barrel vise or a BEV block, especially if the muzzle device requires more than a little force to come off.
     

    Hawkeye

    The Leatherstocking
    Jan 29, 2009
    3,971
    It looks pretty easy to do but all the videos I've watched are with brand new barrels. I don't want to bend anything and I have read some horror stories of people bending their uppers or barrels trying to wrench on and off muzzle devices. I do have the BEV block but not thin wrenches or the torque attachment I read about on another thread.

    If you've got a BEV block and an iota of sense you can do this at home.

    This is the set of wrenches that Rugged recommended to me when I asked them about this a few months back:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HZQW0Y

    Unless it was put on there by a monkey (and that's not totally impossible) your old muzzle device will likely come off without any drama at all. Put your upper on the BEV block, put the wrench on there and pop it loose. If you're worried you're pushing too hard, then you can always stop.

    Is it absolutely necessary to know how many pounds of torque you are using on it or can you just tighten it until it doesn't move anymore?

    Ideally? Yes. Realistically? You'll likely be fine if you use a wrench and tighten it until it's nice and tight. It's hard to over-torque something that much with a wrench this short.

    I'm more worried about bending something trying to get the old one off that is probably fused on there pretty tight from use.

    You might be surprised how easily the old one comes loose. As I said before, you can always just stop if it doesn't come off easily.

    Timing the brake is dead simple, too. You thread it on there and see how it lines up. You add shims until it's juuuust a little off on the "loose" side when it's hand tight. Then you tighten it on there with the wrench to make sure it'll all line up nicely. Then take it back off, make sure the threads are degreased, put a few drops of rocksett on it, and thread it back on and tighten until it's aligned and snug.
     

    SteveG75

    Active Member
    Feb 25, 2013
    213
    Escaped to gunny FL.
    Another quick note. Get a Giessele alignment rod (or split the cost with some friends). When I stepped into the suppressor world three years ago, I put mounts on everything I had. I had one rifle (Mossberg MVP) where the threads were not aligned to the bore and the alignment rod would hit on the end cap. Sent the rifle into Mossberg to get rebarreled.

    Also, know decision has been made, but another plug for Rugged. I have both a Surge and Razor. First day shooting the Surge, I did not get it properly tightened on my Tavor. Bang and suppressor went 10 yds down range. Called Rugged at 7PM to leave message. They picked up phone, did not laugh at me, and sent me a return label that night. Got the can repaired back in two weeks with new end cap and new muzzle device. I am a Rugged customer for life. In fact, just started the process for a Micro 30, Obsidian 9, and Obsidian 45 to go with my Surge and Razor.
     

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