So... You Want To Reload? Questions to answer before taking the plunge.

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  • mxrider

    Former MSI Treasurer
    Aug 20, 2012
    3,045
    Edgewater, MD
    If we factored our time in this, I don't think you could reload any type of round cheaper than what you can buy.
     

    Traveler

    Lighten up Francis
    Jan 18, 2013
    8,227
    AA County
    If we factored our time in this, I don't think you could reload any type of round cheaper than what you can buy.

    That does present a problem doesn't it. I don't load to save money though.

    For me:

    I have ammo when the shelves are empty.
    My ammo is more accurate in my firearms than cheap factory ammo.
    I can load softer shooting ammo that is great for practice.
    I have a hobby I enjoy.
     

    mxrider

    Former MSI Treasurer
    Aug 20, 2012
    3,045
    Edgewater, MD
    That does present a problem doesn't it. I don't load to save money though.

    For me:

    I have ammo when the shelves are empty.
    My ammo is more accurate in my firearms than cheap factory ammo.
    I can load softer shooting ammo that is great for practice.
    I have a hobby I enjoy.

    Well, there's all that too :party29:
     

    lseries

    Member
    Dec 11, 2011
    254
    Does anyone have a cost breakdown to were you would actually see the benefit of reloading? For example at what point would your break even for a single stage/turret/progressive set up?

    My experience, and that of everyone else I know who reloads, is that you don't save money. You just shoot more.

    Other advantages of handloading, e.g., more accurate ammo, etc., are discussed in this thread.

    YMMV, of course.
     

    lseries

    Member
    Dec 11, 2011
    254
    As is the norm, labor has not been included. I don't work for free, no one does. I make WAY more than minimum wage.

    You have to look at the time spent handloading as part of the hobby, and a part you're interested in. You also have to decide that the more accurate (if you experiment) ammo is worth it.

    I make way more than minimum wage, too. However, for better or worse, I can't fill the time I spend reloading making what I do at my job. It's time I'd otherwise pass watching TV, reading, and so on. If you can spend those hours making your regular salary, it may well make more sense to buy ammunition.
     

    marte616

    God bless America...
    MDS Supporter
    Apr 15, 2008
    1,355
    Occupied Territory
    As is the norm, labor has not been included. I don't work for free, no one does. I make WAY more than minimum wage. I have to clean, inspect, and sort the brass. That is just the short list.

    Wally world prices don't reflect bulk or surplus pricing either.

    Here is a link for Freedom munitions, out of stock now. Right around .24 / rnd, with no labor on my part.

    http://www.freedommunitions.com/category-s/2891.htm

    Dude...thanks!!!! Awesome resource. Check this out:

    http://www.freedommunitions.com/category-s/1912.htm?searching=Y&sort=11&cat=1912&show=160&page=1
     

    hi3cho

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 16, 2012
    1,306
    Edgemere
    I know that after 2000 rounds of 308 that I generated, I had started saving money. Granted, I was making loads that were better than FGMM and they were tailored for my rifle.

    The cost per caliber is something that you have to figure out on your own. Only you can decide what components you are going to use and how much you are going to spend on components. Because you will make loads that are considered "match" by factory standards, you need to gauge your cost/savings by comparing the cost of your loads to factory match ammo. It is easier that way to see where you will break even.

    Some calibers have a lower margin, while others have a higher margin of savings when reloading. Keep in mind that you can use each piece of brass a minimum of 5 times, so divide the cost of your bras by 5 so you can see how much your brass costs per round generated.

    Where are you located? if you are near by me, we can meet up somewhere and talk about this or if you want to learn how to reload, I'd be willing to teach you.

    I am in Sparrows Point (SE Balto Co.) and it looks like you are in Frederick so pretty far away. I do appreciate the offer and once I am ready to take the plunge I may take you up on it. In the mean time I think I am going to start getting some of the smaller items that will be needed no matter what set up I decide on.

    I have a good size work bench but I am thinking about building a dedicated work bench for reloading. Does do you have recommendation as to a size table that would be good for reloading?

    As some have expressed, you may not technically save money but you should be able to shoot much more with higher quality ammo. Also you really can't count your time as part of the equation like someone said unless you have a way to replace your free time with paid time at the same rate as your job. IMO people who reload generally are willing to put time to save the money or increase the quality so your time doesnt have a monetary factor in the equation.
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    I am in Sparrows Point (SE Balto Co.) and it looks like you are in Frederick so pretty far away. I do appreciate the offer and once I am ready to take the plunge I may take you up on it. In the mean time I think I am going to start getting some of the smaller items that will be needed no matter what set up I decide on.

    I have a good size work bench but I am thinking about building a dedicated work bench for reloading. Does do you have recommendation as to a size table that would be good for reloading?

    As some have expressed, you may not technically save money but you should be able to shoot much more with higher quality ammo. Also you really can't count your time as part of the equation like someone said unless you have a way to replace your free time with paid time at the same rate as your job. IMO people who reload generally are willing to put time to save the money or increase the quality so your time doesnt have a monetary factor in the equation.

    Let me know if you want to link up after you get ready to take the plunge.

    A bench is a curious thing, only you can define how big or small you want it to be. My bench is one of these (because there are 2 options, mine is the more expensive of the 2). On the other hand, my dad's bench is something he built many moons ago that is L shaped and covers about half of one wall and a quarter of the the other wall. He also has more space for a bench than I do. I am doing just fine with my little bench and I know I will get a second one soon enough, to attach to my original, so I have have some more bench space.

    There is actually a thread devoted to nothing by benches, here on the forum. Check it out here. You might find something you like and can build yourself. My bench is in there, if you look for it.

    A few members have gone with this bench from Harbor Freight, and have had good luck with it.

    Hope this helps.
     

    hi3cho

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 16, 2012
    1,306
    Edgemere
    Let me know if you want to link up after you get ready to take the plunge.

    A bench is a curious thing, only you can define how big or small you want it to be. My bench is one of these (because there are 2 options, mine is the more expensive of the 2). On the other hand, my dad's bench is something he built many moons ago that is L shaped and covers about half of one wall and a quarter of the the other wall. He also has more space for a bench than I do. I am doing just fine with my little bench and I know I will get a second one soon enough, to attach to my original, so I have have some more bench space.

    There is actually a thread devoted to nothing by benches, here on the forum. Check it out here. You might find something you like and can build yourself. My bench is in there, if you look for it.

    A few members have gone with this bench from Harbor Freight, and have had good luck with it.

    Hope this helps.

    I scrolled through the bench thread and got a pretty good idea of what I plan on making, Thanks again for the advice
     

    kennyc01

    Active Member
    Apr 30, 2008
    200
    Gaithersburg, MD
    I just got my first press for 45 ACP and will start reloading soon. I did a rough excel spreadsheet and it looks like it will take at least 3000 rounds for me to break even.

    Factor in that I shoot almost every weekend, but not .45 every time. Realistically it might take a good 9 months.

    I did not factor in my time as I take this as a hobby.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,591
    Glen Burnie
    I just got my first press for 45 ACP and will start reloading soon. I did a rough excel spreadsheet and it looks like it will take at least 3000 rounds for me to break even.

    Factor in that I shoot almost every weekend, but not .45 every time. Realistically it might take a good 9 months.

    I did not factor in my time as I take this as a hobby.
    If you put yourself into a really first-class setup, I'd say that's probably pretty accurate - that's 60 boxes of ammo. In my case, with 45 ACP using cast lead semi-wadcutters, I'm reloading for about $6, so factoring a box of 45s at 32 cents a round, that's $16 a box, saving me roughly $10 per box, or $600 for 60 boxes.

    My setup by the time I got done buying powder, bullets, primers and dies, along with a tumbler, was probably in the vicinity of $300. Of course everything is dependent upon what you want to put into it. If you buy better bullets, obviously you won't save as much per box - maybe only $5 per box. Still worth it IMO though, and either way, you are ahead once it has paid for itself, and it can be a very enjoyable hobby. :)
     

    jackpollard

    Active Member
    Dec 26, 2013
    204
    Outside Union Bridge, MD.
    Very interesting posts. I am just getting into reloading, mainly for my .308 right now to start. I got setup with everything I need for around $300. Just some rookie thoughts; omg is it tough to get supplies. I was finally able to get some imr powder but my primers got back ordered 2x. I find the process incredibly relaxing. Who would of thought handling explosives and propellents could be so relaxing, that in a sense reverses the cost of my time. I enjoy the total focus and the fact that you actually create the end product exactly like you want. 100% American made. I'm really enjoying saving some money and my son and I are working on .223 next. It also seems once you have a base of supplies you can kind of weather the hording storm.
     

    MDcompetition

    Anti-poacher
    MDS Supporter
    May 8, 2013
    93
    Baltimore, MD.
    Thank you DA for initiating this very important, and relevant discussion. A year ago I would have just kept purchasing "off the shelf" ammo. But, now I have come to realize if someone is serious about quality, as well as quantity, you have to come full circle and learn this critically important skill of hand loading.
     

    JettaRed

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 13, 2013
    1,138
    Middletown
    Don't forget the chronograph! You can get a good basic one for under $100. The Shooting Chrony F1 Chrony can be gotten from walmart online for about $90.

    If you're going go reload, you need to know what you're shooting. For example, my GLOCK G19 Gen4 is typically 50 fps faster than my Ruger P95 with the same batch of reloads.

    Reload data from manuals (yeah, you need at least one good one) or online are based on a particular gun, etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    DaemonAssassin

    Why should we Free BSD?
    Jun 14, 2012
    23,970
    Political refugee in WV
    Don't forget the chronograph! You can get a good basic one for under $100. The Shooting Chrony F1 Chrony can be gotten from walmart online for about $90.

    If you're going go reload, you need to know what you're shooting. For example, my GLOCK G19 Gen4 is typically 50 fps faster than my Ruger P95 with the same batch of reloads.

    Reload data from manuals (yeah, you need at least one good one) or online are based on a particular gun, etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Should I go for another thread for just the misc. stuff beyond the presses and dies? I'll have a decent amount of downtime tonight.
     

    K31

    "Part of that Ultra MAGA Crowd"
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 15, 2006
    35,632
    AA county
    I think you should add to your questions, "If I live in Maryland, do I intend to reload in an apartment or other multifamily dwelling?"
     

    john_bud

    Ultimate Member
    Sep 23, 2009
    2,045
    I recently started reloading with a single stage press a buddy gave me. Curse him! For now I am addicted. ;) he gave me a small tumbler, but a franklin vibrating brass cleaner with walnut shell replaced it. It's held as many as 7-800 cases of .40 sw, that's probably too many, but it worked. A tip is to put rubber fuel hose over the lid hold down stud so the cases don't erode it away over time.

    After cases are cleaned, I'll deprime/prime in one step with the lee leverprime system. Lever down to deprime and size, put a primer in the cup by pushing the thing over, lever up to seat the primer. I wrap my hand around the lever and press housing so grip strength can be used to smoothly seat the primer. To check each step, I use a set method. Clean cases are in an ice cream bucket, primed cases are in a tray primer side up so I can be sure they are seated properly.

    Next is adding powder. I use lee dippers. Obviously, in conjuction w a scale to verify weight! After finding the scoop that gives weight in the range the book says, I load 9-10 rounds where 3 are slightly under, 3 heaped and 4 best effort at a level scoop. They are all weighed to see the variation and to ensure it's in the min-max load range. If different scoops give weights in range, they are also used to test 9-10 rounds. I've found keeping to the lowest end is the easiest. Less stress about over pressure, less cost in precious powder and they are fine for plinking steel targets in the back yard range. Those are run across the chrono to verify the recipe and robust operation of the weapon.

    Then the primed cases are filled with the scoop, trying to always give a level scoop.
    Powder filled cases go into a tray upright, and when the tray is filled, a bright light is used to verify consistent fill. (Imho a step needed for safety)

    Then the bullet is pressed in. I back the depth screw out 1/2 turn, then measure length and tweek it down to get to the correct length. I measure the next 3-4 rounds to make sure and about every 10th round. It holds pretty consistent, but sometimes settles if I didn't tighten it good and gets 10 thou longer. The completed rounds are put in plastic boxes with lables showing bullet weight and the date loaded. The log book has details on the load for that day.

    As far as time, I may get 100/hr if really hustling, but being cautious it's probably closer to 70-75 per hour.

    In the past month of doing this I've loaded 1500 rounds of .40sw with 140, 200,and 220 gr cast bullets. The heavy ones are for knocking down bowling pins. 150 rounds of 454 casull. Also primed 200 cases of 9mm. Cost for the .40 is about $14-16 per 100 depending on bullet weight. So 7-8 bucks for a box of 50. And I can use light recoiling loads shooting steel for faster times or heavy bullets that mimic .45acp when shooting pins.

    For a casual shooter, a single station press works fine. I was hesitant about it to start, but it really is a lot simpler than antcipated. Worst thing is trying to find powder!
     

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