I used AR Stoner (MidwayUSA's house brand) for my 16in 5.56 and 8.5in 300 BLK builds.
Both barrels seem to be giving good accuracy and run well. Note that the barrels do not have any cuts or dimples for gas blocks. I had to drill the dimples myself which was pretty easy.
Thanks for the advice, I had the barrel supported using an old 1911 block but the receiver was not supported and only pressed against the bench with my elbow. I can definitely see the benefit that a real barrel block has and might need to grab one in the future.
To fix it I removed the stock...
I had to give my front sight some solid blows before it would drift out and it almost looks like the barrel twisted in the receiver 1 or 2 degrees to the right while looking down the sights.
Does anyone know if it is possible to twist a 10/22 barrel in the receiver while removing the front...
Hi I'm collecting brass to start reloading in the fall and noticed an odd pattern on a few of the cases I have picked up from the range. Has anyone seen this kind of pattern and do you think it's safe to reload?
In case the photo is not clear enough to read it is LC 13 or 14 stamped 5.56.
If you go with the low-pro gas block you could fit one of these over it, hopefully YHM still has one in stock - http://yhm.net/solid-carbine-handguard-forearm.html
That is what I'm using on my 8in pistol build.
Thanks,
Sounds like I need to pull the carbine buffer off and replace with a pistol buffer on my "Multi" marked Spikes lower and use that carbine buffer to build my new 5.56/.223 Anderson as a carbine.
Does anyone know if a lower that has rollmarks for a specific caliber (ex. .223/5.56mm) be registered and built into a pistol and then SBR of a different caliber?