Right To Bear giving away stuff? I am Confused

[calicojack]

So I got an email from Right To Bear becuase I want to build a dedicated 22 LR AR upper for a currently registered SBR. I add to my cart, and lo and behold, there is a right to bear T Shirt and a 6 position buffer tube kit added on for no charge (buffer, spring, tube, the whole nine yards). I go to "edit my cart" to remove these as I don't need them. It won't let me. Granted, for what these dedicated 22 LR bolt and barrels cost they probably are still making money , but this is very odd.

Has anyone else seen this?

 

[calicojack]

Here's the order ...

 

[jrumann59]

Let us know how the buffer works out.

 

[trickg]

I'd be like, "Cool! Free stuff!" Especially with the buffer tube - if it ends up being solid, that's a great deal - I paid $40 for the last set I bought.

 

[DutchV]

I suspect that buffer kit won't be the best one you've ever seen.

 

[trickg]

I suspect that buffer kit won't be the best one you've ever seen.

The buffer assembly is a pretty simple setup - I suppose certain refinements could be made - chiefly a better spring, but otherwise? It's a straight metal tube with a spring, a piston, and a pin to keep everything held in place.

 

[alucard0822]

Don't know, I understand the shirt, have gotten swag from them before, but not sure about the buffer kit. Either way, I have bought a lot of stuff from them, and they are awesome. Got a bunch of Aero M4E1 lowers a couple years back, paid the $50 engraving add-on for a single lower I planned to SBR, they called, asked if I wanted They would do all of them being they already had the engraver set up, so added cost. I have built a few AR22s with their stuff, and they are awesome. the only thing to be aware of, and it applies to RTB and CMMG, there can be a very subtle edge around the chamber just above the ramp on the BCG. It can catch the bullet and is the source of most jams on new AR22 builds, just break the edge with a stone or fine abrasive and polish the ramp and radius of the chamber, and it will feed much better. Doesn't take much, can see in this pic one of mine with the spot circled in red. It will normally jam a few times till lead and lube fill in the spot and it feeds, then jams after you clean it, at least for the first couple bricks till it smooths out. I just chamfer and polish all mine before I put them together, and it runs great from the start.

 

[DutchV]

The buffer assembly is a pretty simple setup - I suppose certain refinements could be made - chiefly a better spring, but otherwise? It's a straight metal tube with a spring, a piston, and a pin to keep everything held in place.

If you're getting a $40 kit for free, there's a reason. Some of the no-name stuff is really awful.

 

[trickg]

If you're getting a $40 kit for free, there's a reason. Some of the no-name stuff is really awful.

I have always tried to stay away from the really cheap stuff - my default "generic" is Palmetto State Armory for parts. Cheap, but still decent enough quality.

 

[calicojack]

I got a note frpm them today; they said that my order qualified for the free stuff. So it was not a mistake.

 

[calicojack]

Don't know, I understand the shirt, have gotten swag from them before, but not sure about the buffer kit. Either way, I have bought a lot of stuff from them, and they are awesome. Got a bunch of Aero M4E1 lowers a couple years back, paid the $50 engraving add-on for a single lower I planned to SBR, they called, asked if I wanted They would do all of them being they already had the engraver set up, so added cost. I have built a few AR22s with their stuff, and they are awesome. the only thing to be aware of, and it applies to RTB and CMMG, there can be a very subtle edge around the chamber just above the ramp on the BCG. It can catch the bullet and is the source of most jams on new AR22 builds, just break the edge with a stone or fine abrasive and polish the ramp and radius of the chamber, and it will feed much better. Doesn't take much, can see in this pic one of mine with the spot circled in red. It will normally jam a few times till lead and lube fill in the spot and it feeds, then jams after you clean it, at least for the first couple bricks till it smooths out. I just chamfer and polish all mine before I put them together, and it runs great from the start.

Thanks. You know after seeing your builds, I am also getting a 12.5" hand guard (in additon to the 7.5") to see if I like tucking the can under the hand guard better. What will I do with the 7.5" hand guard? Oh, probably do a 4.5" barrel build as well

 

[alucard0822]

Thanks. You know after seeing your builds, I am also getting a 12.5" hand guard (in additon to the 7.5") to see if I like tucking the can under the hand guard better. What will I do with the 7.5" hand guard? Oh, probably do a 4.5" barrel build as well .

22 cans tuck better than most others, they fit under any handguard, don't get all that hot, and cheap handguards generally only need to back off 2 screws to quickly remove. A 22 barrel will be 1.5" shorter than the handguard, so a 9" will be flush at 7.5" with the can seating on the thread shoulder at 7", so 5" long can will be flush with a 12" handguard. My 4.5" barrel only leaves about 1/2" of a 5" can poking out. With a 4.5" handguard it tucks 2" of can, and is silly short and fun with my Oculus in it's 3.25" K config