Go Back   Maryland Shooters > The Arsenal > Handguns

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old March 21st, 2011, 09:59 AM   #1
StanleyG
Member
 
StanleyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: MontCo and Balt Co
Posts: 124
Upgrades to my brand new RIA 1911 Tactical

As I'm waiting for my brand new 1911 RIA tactical , I keep thinking of things I want to do to it. I am open to learn some basic gunsmithing with this gun.

I already have a post on the red dot sight:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=54016

and there is seem to be a conversation going on on a diff grips and mags.

Any other ideas ?

thank you all !!
StanleyG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:04 AM   #2
Jackson923
Hell Yeah!
 
Jackson923's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Harford Co
Posts: 1,835
I plan on changing the grips to the VZ Operator II's in Dirty Olive, adding some extra mags, either Wilson or Chip MC, and possibly a threaded barrel with a compensator (maybe).


__________________
"A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government."
- George Washington
"The two most important rules in a gunfight are: always cheat and always win."
- Clint Smith
Jackson923 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:05 AM   #3
Sinjin
Member
 
Sinjin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 405
I'd check here if I was you:

http://www.mdshooters.com/showpost.p...22&postcount=6
Sinjin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:08 AM   #4
mikec
Senior Member
 
mikec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off I-83
Posts: 11,346
No. Get the gun and shoot it. Do that for maybe six to nine months and then decide if anything really bugs you.

I changed the grips on my RIA almost immediately because the stock panels just felt bad to me.

I know I want to get either a gold or brass or maybe a white bead in the front sight, but that isn't an urgent need.

Mags, ammo and grip panels are the only real must haves. Oh, and cleaning items and some lube.
mikec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:15 AM   #5
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyG View Post
As I'm waiting for my brand new 1911 RIA tactical , I keep thinking of things I want to do to it. I am open to learn some basic gunsmithing with this gun.

I already have a post on the red dot sight:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=54016

and there is seem to be a conversation going on on a diff grips and mags.

Any other ideas ?

thank you all !!
Mags, use Wilson Combat mags, try to avoid mags with metal followers unless the follower is rounded up front (Pointed metal followers damage some 1911's feed ramps).

Grips, G10, Hogue Aluminum Grips, Crimson Trace Laser Grips, or some classic checkered cocobolo wood grips.

Unless you are familiar with gunsmithing dont do anything that would be considered gunsmithing to the gun until you really know what you are doing. Get a few 1911 books and read them thoroughly before you even think of taking a file, dremel, mill, ect...to a 1911. Get a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen first and read it several times over.

One wrong mistake wil cost you WAY more than you saved trying to do much work yourself at home. Ive seen hundreds of people in a bad spot after trying their hand ant smithing 9Especially 1911's) and they had to pay me alot to get them out of it. I would prefer for people to never need someone like me.

Im not saying you arent capible but understand the gun and the work BEFORE doing anything, and dont listen to any gunsmithing advice on the internet, 95% of its bad advice.


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:16 AM   #6
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikec View Post
No. Get the gun and shoot it. Do that for maybe six to nine months and then decide if anything really bugs you.

I changed the grips on my RIA almost immediately because the stock panels just felt bad to me.

I know I want to get either a gold or brass or maybe a white bead in the front sight, but that isn't an urgent need.

Mags, ammo and grip panels are the only real must haves. Oh, and cleaning items and some lube.
Listen to this guy, this is EXCELLENT advice.


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:16 AM   #7
vector03
Frustrated Incorporated
 
vector03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbia
Posts: 1,758
Is this the C&S Trigger kit commonly referenced?



__________________
"Those left standing will make Millions writing books on the way it should have been"
"A Republic...if you can keep it."
"History? History started on July 4th 1776. Everything before that was a mistake."
vector03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:21 AM   #8
StanleyG
Member
 
StanleyG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: MontCo and Balt Co
Posts: 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
Mags, use Wilson Combat mags, try to avoid mags with metal followers unless the follower is rounded up front (Pointed metal followers damage some 1911's feed ramps).

Grips, G10, Hogue Aluminum Grips, Crimson Trace Laser Grips, or some classic checkered cocobolo wood grips.

Unless you are familiar with gunsmithing dont do anything that would be considered gunsmithing to the gun until you really know what you are doing. Get a few 1911 books and read them thoroughly before you even think of taking a file, dremel, mill, ect...to a 1911. Get a book by Jerry Kuhnhausen first and read it several times over.

One wrong mistake wil cost you WAY more than you saved trying to do much work yourself at home. Ive seen hundreds of people in a bad spot after trying their hand ant smithing 9Especially 1911's) and they had to pay me alot to get them out of it. I would prefer for people to never need someone like me.

Im not saying you arent capible but understand the gun and the work BEFORE doing anything, and dont listen to any gunsmithing advice on the internet, 95% of its bad advice.
That's a very good advice.. thank you for the books references, I will def. have to learn alot and will take it extremly slow.

But I have to start somewhere.
StanleyG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:27 AM   #9
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by vector03 View Post
Is this the C&S Trigger kit commonly referenced?

Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:27 AM   #10
mikec
Senior Member
 
mikec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off I-83
Posts: 11,346
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanleyG View Post
This gun is not for self defence or carry. This is my project gun that I plan to upgrade and learn from. But I will most def. put a few hundred rounds through before any upgrades to get a feel for it.
My RIA isn't a defense gun either, but before I would do anything to possibly void the very good warranty on the gun, make sure it isn't one of the few lemons. Yes, lemons. Every factory produces them.

Why do you want to change something? Education is a valid answer, but to buy a gun and immediately start rebuilding it to me is a little much.

Buying a second slide and components and then learning how to properly assemble that slide to me is a better route. You have a working slide, on the gun, and you can see how things are done. The same with a new inexpensive frame and parts.
mikec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:28 AM   #11
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinjin View Post
Thanks Sinjin You are too kind.


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:42 AM   #12
webb297
Senior Member
 
webb297's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Bowie
Posts: 1,265
Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.

Got it Clandestine - If we want to upgrade it we should take it to somebody who knows what their doing, as "drop in" might be a bit more complicated than it seems. What would it cost for someone like you to do something like that (trigger and kit)? Not that I want to right off the bat, but for refrence.

Last edited by webb297; March 21st, 2011 at 10:44 AM. Reason: added the question
webb297 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 10:53 AM   #13
Sinjin
Member
 
Sinjin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 405
Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
Thanks Sinjin You are too kind.
NP.

I plan on doing those upgrades, plus a few other little tweaks, once I've shot the &*#(%)#%) out of my RIA. Like you and others mentioned, I wanted to really shoot it for a while before really making any determinations on what to change. I'm assuming the same upgrades/parts kit can be made to the 9mm version, but either way, I'll find out when I get closer to time.

I also agree that grip will probably be the first thing you'll want to change, as the fake wood that comes with most is really slick and really ugly.
Sinjin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 11:19 AM   #14
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by webb297 View Post
Got it Clandestine - If we want to upgrade it we should take it to somebody who knows what their doing, as "drop in" might be a bit more complicated than it seems. What would it cost for someone like you to do something like that (trigger and kit)? Not that I want to right off the bat, but for refrence.
Most of that work can be done at home with mimimal tools and just some patience. I just wanted to really explain what to do to get the most out of the Drop In Kits.

If I had to make a guestimate about 90% of all advertised "drop in" items sold need more fitting than just dropping in if the best results are desired. Some people may just not know what to look for if somethings not right, which can lead to accelerated wear or other future problems.

I hate to see good people have issues with their guns and accessories, and I try to help whenever I can so that people avoid problems and disapointments.

Im not doing any more new work, but the Shop I used to work for charges $95.00 labor to do all that and test fire the gun as well (With Customer Supplied Ammo).


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.

Last edited by clandestine; March 21st, 2011 at 01:00 PM.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 12:51 PM   #15
FFMike
Senior Member
 
FFMike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Howard County
Posts: 1,616
Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.

I think if I were doing anything other then grips and mags I would just come see you!!
FFMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 01:01 PM   #16
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinjin View Post
NP.

I plan on doing those upgrades, plus a few other little tweaks, once I've shot the &*#(%)#%) out of my RIA. Like you and others mentioned, I wanted to really shoot it for a while before really making any determinations on what to change. I'm assuming the same upgrades/parts kit can be made to the 9mm version, but either way, I'll find out when I get closer to time.

I also agree that grip will probably be the first thing you'll want to change, as the fake wood that comes with most is really slick and really ugly.
I agree, those grips have to go.

I think they recycle popsicle sticks to make those grips, I swear they are the most junktastic grips put on a firearm.


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 01:28 PM   #17
jonnyl
Senior Member
 
jonnyl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Frederick
Posts: 4,965
Quote:
Originally Posted by clandestine View Post
Yup, and most of them drop in beautifully. They really should be installed and tuned as well. You want tight but not overly tight Hammer and Sear Pins. You want to polish the face of the Sear Spring where they make contact with the Sear and Disconnector, and put a slight angle on the leg that contact the Disconnector to prevent binding, and be sure the Sear Spring hook does not protrude into the Mag Well. You want to dykem (Dye) the Sear and Hammer Hooks and check engagement. Make sure the Hammer Strut dont bind on the Hammer, and that it dont slap the Beavertail Safety when fired. You want to check and make sure the Hammer Spur dont make contact with the Beavertail, or the Beavertail Hammer Recess. You want to be sure the Disconnector tension is right and dont bind up movement of the slide. Be sure the Mainspring Plunger moves freely and check to make sure the Sear, or Hammer dont bind in the frame, or that there is excessive side to side slop with the Hammer or Sear. Also check to make sure the previously cut Safety has proper engagement and still holds the new internals and is safe. Do a Slide drop test and see if the Hammer follows on an unloaded gun with the grip safety engaged and your fiinger OFF the trigger.

These kits usually feel best when a full fit Trigger is instaled and fit with minimal travel and slop.
So it's tax time, just fill out the 1040-EZ. Then just to be safe you might want to read through this:


My knees start knockin' whenever I see "may require some fitting"...


__________________
The loss of freedom, tyrrany, abuse, hunger would all have been easier to bear if not for the compulsion to call them freedom, justice, the good of the people...
-- Aleksander Wat, My Century

The ability to express yourself freely is so uniquely tied to the ability to defend yourself freely.

--Richard "Mack" Machowicz


_____________________________________________

NRA Member
MSI Member
SAF Member
jonnyl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 01:35 PM   #18
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyl View Post
So it's tax time, just fill out the 1040-EZ. Then just to be safe you might want to read through this:


My knees start knockin' whenever I see "may require some fitting"...


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 04:28 PM   #19
pasayan73
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: laurel, md
Posts: 284
Images: 4
should i go for less $$ RIA 1911 and do upgrades or stay with a little bit $$$ STI 1911?
I am planning to use it for competition. any thoughts on that?
pasayan73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 21st, 2011, 04:38 PM   #20
clandestine
Firearm Technician
 
clandestine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 24,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by pasayan73 View Post
should i go for less $$ RIA 1911 and do upgrades or stay with a little bit $$$ STI 1911?
I am planning to use it for competition. any thoughts on that?
Your going to likely pay more money to have a good Smith mod a RIA for race gun purposes than just buying a pre made race gun off the bat.


__________________
Disclaimer

The post/s above is for informational purposes only and not for the purpose of providing Gunsmith advice. My post/s do not constitute, nor do they create, a Gunsmith Contract or Warranty.

The opinion/s expressed do not reflect the opinion/s of Maryland Shooters or any Business and/or Organization.
clandestine is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  Home Page > Forum List > The Arsenal > Handguns


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
2013, Maryland Shooters, LLC