223 Lake City brass

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  • OrangeSpear

    NRA Member
    Feb 4, 2010
    503
    Owings Mills
    I was offered some once fired .223 Rem Lake City brass.

    Will I have any issues decapping? I keep reading conflicting google searches that the primers are crimped in and some places say its no issues.

    (this is for a Remington 700 not an AR15)
     

    HarCo2ANewb

    Subibro
    Mar 24, 2011
    5,899
    Elkridge
    I have not had an issue but I have only done about 500, the bigger issue is getting rid of the crimp so you can reprime them.
     

    Half-cocked

    Senior Meatbag
    Mar 14, 2006
    23,937
    Decapping won't be a problem so long as they're boxer-primed.

    It's re-priming that will be a problem, if you don't swage the crimp.

    Also, be sure to check cartridge length after resizing, they're likely going to need to be trimmed.
     

    OrangeSpear

    NRA Member
    Feb 4, 2010
    503
    Owings Mills
    I have not had an issue but I have only done about 500, the bigger issue is getting rid of the crimp so you can reprime them.

    so maybe i miss understood the issue.

    How do you get rid of the crimp so you can reprime the Lake City brass?

    doing a quick google search i found...
    The cheap and easy way I use to remove the crimps is using a deburring tool to cut out the crimp, while making sure not to cut too much. Sometimes I forget to remove the crimp on brass and it still works fine. My experience is if you go slow and steady when priming, you'll be fine most of the time. Not removing the crimp also reduces the chance of oversize primer pockets.
     

    byf43

    SCSC Life/NRA Patron Life
    would anyone else be interested in .223 brass at $.25 per case?

    To me, that's a little high for un-processed brass, but, the time is 'right' for sellers, not buyers.

    If you want to process the brass, get a Lee De-Priming tool. Two sizes are made.
    Small (for .223, etc.)
    Large (for .308 and .30-'06.)

    A base. A punch. Put the case into the base, insert punch and hit the punch w/ a hammer. Primer comes out.
    Done deal.

    I've used the RCBS de-burring tool for more years than I want to remember.

    I've got an RCBS swaging die/tool somewhere, in a drawer in my loading room. I've used it once.
     

    OrangeSpear

    NRA Member
    Feb 4, 2010
    503
    Owings Mills
    after looking around the net, $.25 seems normal-high (for current times).
    Im negotiating with the seller now to see if i can get them for $.20 per. its a lot of 1300 and i really only want about half. Thats why i was asking if anyone else would be interested in some .223 brass.
     

    Pinecone

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Feb 4, 2013
    28,175
    1) If you try using a standard decapping setup, you WILL bend/break a number of decapping pins. The Lee Universal decapper is best for decapping crimped brass.

    2) You can remove the crimp by reaming or swaging. A deburring tool will not do the job fully, s you actually have to process down into the primer pocket.

    I processed a lot of brass using reamers. Easy to do, sit in front of the TV and ream away.

    Like this: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small

    The problem with reaming is you will wear out your fingers if you do a lot of brass.

    The RCBS swager works on a loading press. I have one, I have used it, I would rather ream the brass.

    The Dillon swager is slick and works quite well. Not cheap, but if you are going to process a lot of brass, it is well worth it. I did about 1000 pieces last weekend while watching some TV.

    http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

    I have processed thousands of piece of 5.56, 7.62, 9mm, and .45 ACP brass. By FAR, the easiest way is the Dillon swager.
     

    Redd Byrd

    Active Member
    Oct 2, 2007
    874
    1) If you try using a standard decapping setup, you WILL bend/break a number of decapping pins. The Lee Universal decapper is best for decapping crimped brass.

    2) You can remove the crimp by reaming or swaging. A deburring tool will not do the job fully, s you actually have to process down into the primer pocket.

    I processed a lot of brass using reamers. Easy to do, sit in front of the TV and ream away.

    Like this: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/501588/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-tool-small

    The problem with reaming is you will wear out your fingers if you do a lot of brass.

    The RCBS swager works on a loading press. I have one, I have used it, I would rather ream the brass.

    The Dillon swager is slick and works quite well. Not cheap, but if you are going to process a lot of brass, it is well worth it. I did about 1000 pieces last weekend while watching some TV.

    http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

    I have processed thousands of piece of 5.56, 7.62, 30-06, 9mm, and .45 ACP brass. By FAR, the easiest way is the Dillon swager.

    :thumbsup:
     

    Russ D

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    12,042
    Sykesville
    Most LC brass does not have a crimp that needs to be removed. I just did about 400 range pick up LC's and only a couple were tight when repriming. I've also never had an issue breaking a decapping pin in my resizing die on LC brass and I've done thousands.
     

    Deep Creek Rock

    .._. .._ _._. _._ .._
    It seems mixed with LC brass that I find, with crimps. Some dont have crimped in primers, other have the circular crimps around the primer. It must be what LC plant they are produced in, or year runs.

    I have been finding a good amount of LC 12', with what almost looks like a squared primer pocket from the style crimp they use. They do decap fine, and the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Die, makes the primer pocket perfectly round looking.

    Here is a pic what I mean on the new style crimp
     

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